Member
Joined 2002
No, sorry, only had about a 6" piece but you may still be in luck. I bought mine at the Langely Metal Supermarkets. In your area:
Victoria
(250) 544-4000
2111 Keating Cross Road
Victoria, BC V8M 2A5
or
Nanaimo
(250) 751-2323
2266 McGarrigle
Nanaimo, BC V9S 4M6
Fun place for those with the illness to just browse around. The staff appear to understand. 🙂
Victoria
(250) 544-4000
2111 Keating Cross Road
Victoria, BC V8M 2A5
or
Nanaimo
(250) 751-2323
2266 McGarrigle
Nanaimo, BC V9S 4M6
Fun place for those with the illness to just browse around. The staff appear to understand. 🙂
Member
Joined 2002
rdf said:
Funny i work on bertram place right beside the car auction 🙂 Maybe we can meet up and i can get some cut ? You have more tools ? I have hardly any tool's.
( ps if you need help with other stuff pm me or email me )
Also checkout http://www.onlinemetals.com ...There's some stuff that's cheaper importing, duties and taxes included, compared to Metal Supermarkets 😉
jleaman said:
You can do sandblasting, but before you need to prepare the surface anyway. The easiest way is to use a beltsander with 80-120 grid. You can leave it like that, or blast it later.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=377181#post377181
jleaman said:
Aren't you on the Island? I'm a latte-sipping mainlander!
Geek, many thanks for the link. Hmmmm, titanium Gainclone...(kidding!)
Member
Joined 2002
Peter Daniel said:
Thank's peter. I'll try it this week if i get to it. So many project's not enough time.
rdf said:
yup im on the island ( for some reason i thought you were because you posted the one in vic )
What did you pay for your copper plate ? Are you able to get scrap stuff / what thicknesses ?
Herm and others,
Cutting plate is a little scary at first... it just doesn't seem natural.
You want to make sure your piece has no burrs or anything else that might hang you in the middle of a cut. Be well prepared for the shavings... there will be a lot.
NOW... POST 15 IS BAD NEWS . That piece between the blade and the ripfence is much wider (from blade to fence) than it is deep )front to back). Compound that with a soft fence so the workpiece can **** or twist; the piece will jam and kick. At best you'll ruin your blade... at worse you'll ruin your body. BAD JU-JU.
Bob Ellis,
I'm sure there are cheaper alloys, but I used 6061-T6. Just check to make sure they are described as "free cutting/free machining". These will be more silver in color and less white... a fine line there I guess. If your are using scrap... test a piece first. If it is "gummy" you'll figure it out. I believe it is the 300 series in particular you want to avoid... but don't chisel that in stone.
And guys... you can use your routers with carbide too!
😉
Cutting plate is a little scary at first... it just doesn't seem natural.
You want to make sure your piece has no burrs or anything else that might hang you in the middle of a cut. Be well prepared for the shavings... there will be a lot.
NOW... POST 15 IS BAD NEWS . That piece between the blade and the ripfence is much wider (from blade to fence) than it is deep )front to back). Compound that with a soft fence so the workpiece can **** or twist; the piece will jam and kick. At best you'll ruin your blade... at worse you'll ruin your body. BAD JU-JU.
Bob Ellis,
I'm sure there are cheaper alloys, but I used 6061-T6. Just check to make sure they are described as "free cutting/free machining". These will be more silver in color and less white... a fine line there I guess. If your are using scrap... test a piece first. If it is "gummy" you'll figure it out. I believe it is the 300 series in particular you want to avoid... but don't chisel that in stone.
And guys... you can use your routers with carbide too!
😉
poobah said:
Don't be ridiculous, I do it almost every day. Did you notice a wooden board I'm using to push the aluminum piece?
Member
Joined 2002
Peter Daniel said:
Agreed. Look twice cut once. In poobah's post it's Look once accuse immediately.
Member
Joined 2002
Peter,
There is a right way to do that... and that ain't it.
You can make a fixture where all the wood you have shown is screwed together into one piece with a 3/4" x 3/8" strip on the bottom to fit into the slots on the table. Think about it... damned handy to...
Peter... I can see you have "hands" and a Kung-Fu grip on that metal... you know you're safe and so do I. But that is NOT what you teach others.
Nothing personal dude...
There is a right way to do that... and that ain't it.
You can make a fixture where all the wood you have shown is screwed together into one piece with a 3/4" x 3/8" strip on the bottom to fit into the slots on the table. Think about it... damned handy to...
Peter... I can see you have "hands" and a Kung-Fu grip on that metal... you know you're safe and so do I. But that is NOT what you teach others.
Nothing personal dude...
Peter Daniel said:
Sandblasting or glass bead blasting. I prefer glass bead blasting as it results somewhat smoother surface.
I have got good results also with "gummy" alloys, using ethanol as a cutting fluid.poobah said:
Member
Joined 2002
mzzj said:
I think i shall try this. Now another question. Should i clear coat this ? Spray varnish or some spray clear coat.
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