Are you trying to convey a particular concept there? you forgot the chair tumbling through the air.
Currently going through intensive consultation to acheive acceptable WAF for the Changs to gain admission. It looks like Jarrah veneered particle board for the Changs. With some careful cutting (lots of 45 degree cuts) I can get away with minimal edge veneer. I'll have to try to glue a rounded over 1/4 inch thick real wood edge around that front curve. Edge veneer is too fragiile.
Such large cabinets in dark wood will be very imposing. Then with big woofs like that... I may be asked why I didn't make them out of light wood. 🙂 Extending the bottom of the mouth by 4 inches to imitate the bottom half of Ron's curve on the Chang would make the system look really nice. I can't wait to get home and start making some sawdust.
We need some forums for discussing techniques for working materials: Metal, wood, composites and other.
Currently going through intensive consultation to acheive acceptable WAF for the Changs to gain admission. It looks like Jarrah veneered particle board for the Changs. With some careful cutting (lots of 45 degree cuts) I can get away with minimal edge veneer. I'll have to try to glue a rounded over 1/4 inch thick real wood edge around that front curve. Edge veneer is too fragiile.
Such large cabinets in dark wood will be very imposing. Then with big woofs like that... I may be asked why I didn't make them out of light wood. 🙂 Extending the bottom of the mouth by 4 inches to imitate the bottom half of Ron's curve on the Chang would make the system look really nice. I can't wait to get home and start making some sawdust.
We need some forums for discussing techniques for working materials: Metal, wood, composites and other.
😀
Dave, Ron: I do believe the Chang's are quite popular. 🙂
AN8in drivers will work as far as I can tell -like the 206, they just need 3-4ohms of series resistance. I wouldn't advise trying without as they'd sound very bass-light.
Dave, Ron: I do believe the Chang's are quite popular. 🙂
AN8in drivers will work as far as I can tell -like the 206, they just need 3-4ohms of series resistance. I wouldn't advise trying without as they'd sound very bass-light.
Those Subduction drivers look ok. The efficiency sucks though. You'd need 300 or 400 watts to drive them.
I don't think these are available in Australia anyway. What should I be looking for in a driver for a BVR Sub?
I'm guessing Qts about 0.4, very low Fs and an Xmax that would make John Holmes proud?
Any cabinet building has been thoroughly derailed for a couple of months. On the brighter side I'll have the opportunity to pick up a couple of plate amps for some big woofs.
I don't think these are available in Australia anyway. What should I be looking for in a driver for a BVR Sub?
I'm guessing Qts about 0.4, very low Fs and an Xmax that would make John Holmes proud?
Any cabinet building has been thoroughly derailed for a couple of months. On the brighter side I'll have the opportunity to pick up a couple of plate amps for some big woofs.
That sounds about right. 😉 😀
Remember, you'll need a good XO, preferably active, because unlike most subs, which operate over a very narrow bandwidth, the passband of the existing Shadow & its varients is not limited. They run up high, like a regular BVR / reflex / horn / whatever, so you'll want to cut them quite quickly.
Remember, you'll need a good XO, preferably active, because unlike most subs, which operate over a very narrow bandwidth, the passband of the existing Shadow & its varients is not limited. They run up high, like a regular BVR / reflex / horn / whatever, so you'll want to cut them quite quickly.
Definitely active. I'll buy some boards from Elliot sound products and stick them in a pretty box with something like a T-amp for the FT17H (unless anyone has a better suggestion for a little amp)
For the high XO freq I still have no idea what I should do. I'm thinking about 10-12kHz.
I'm picking up a Mr Liang EL34 PP amp soon for the FE207E. I borrowed the tube amp for a few days and it's got plenty of power, With the bottom end rolled off it would be loud enough to be really obnoxious.
I'll replace the woodwork on it with some ply to give me some space for a box underneath for the XO and other amp. I also need to protect the tubes from the kid and the cat and that tacky perspex and blue LED has to go.
From that box will be some quad cables with Speakon plugs and a couple of 75 ohm BNCs for the line level to the shadows (If I make any) which would have a plate amp each.
Since woodwork is going to be impossible I'll get the electronics sorted over the next couple of months. I'll take an FT17H with me because I'll have access to equipment to make a big drill bit to cut the flare in the baffle for the tweeter.
For the high XO freq I still have no idea what I should do. I'm thinking about 10-12kHz.
I'm picking up a Mr Liang EL34 PP amp soon for the FE207E. I borrowed the tube amp for a few days and it's got plenty of power, With the bottom end rolled off it would be loud enough to be really obnoxious.
I'll replace the woodwork on it with some ply to give me some space for a box underneath for the XO and other amp. I also need to protect the tubes from the kid and the cat and that tacky perspex and blue LED has to go.
From that box will be some quad cables with Speakon plugs and a couple of 75 ohm BNCs for the line level to the shadows (If I make any) which would have a plate amp each.
Since woodwork is going to be impossible I'll get the electronics sorted over the next couple of months. I'll take an FT17H with me because I'll have access to equipment to make a big drill bit to cut the flare in the baffle for the tweeter.
The Shadow SD12, is the Peerless XLS12 suitable? Qts is 0.2, Fs is 18.1Hz (should we start a Shadow thread in subwoofers?)
Greets!
FWIW, back when I was heavy into experimenting, one of the things I learned was that all else being equal, the lower the Fb, sysQ of the woofer system the more 'live' it sounded to me, so while without compression horn loading you trade considerable LF output for a low sysQ, it's worth it IMO. Of course in today's world of relatively cheap sub drivers and electronics, two or more drivers EQ'd ~flat in-room combined with plenty of relatively clean power yields a formidable foundation to build upon.
GM
FWIW, back when I was heavy into experimenting, one of the things I learned was that all else being equal, the lower the Fb, sysQ of the woofer system the more 'live' it sounded to me, so while without compression horn loading you trade considerable LF output for a low sysQ, it's worth it IMO. Of course in today's world of relatively cheap sub drivers and electronics, two or more drivers EQ'd ~flat in-room combined with plenty of relatively clean power yields a formidable foundation to build upon.
GM
Maybe I missed it, but did anyone built the curvy chang for the 207 already (i.e. the one the dims optimized by Ron) ?
Curious about impressions,
Florian
P.S. Any Shadow variant with/for drivers readily avail on this part of the pond -- maybe smth from 18Sound, BMS, Monacor, Ciare ?
Curious about impressions,
Florian
P.S. Any Shadow variant with/for drivers readily avail on this part of the pond -- maybe smth from 18Sound, BMS, Monacor, Ciare ?
I believe about 3 with the curved front Ron designed for them are currently in progress, or about to be started.
curvey chang looks grooooovey...
Might be my 2nd diy enclosure project 🙂
aaaarghhhh... somebody stop me browsing diy audio allready!!....
gotta finish my first project yet :-/
😎 😀
Might be my 2nd diy enclosure project 🙂
aaaarghhhh... somebody stop me browsing diy audio allready!!....
gotta finish my first project yet :-/
😎 😀Hi All
Logged on in local library to give you an update.
usual holiday weather up here in Scarborough.
Managed to get a couple of days on the curvey Chang.
Did a dry fit yesterday of cabinet basics (havn't done braces etc yet).
Got to say in the flesh with that narrow waist, it looks soooo sexy.
Definately a winner.
Template works a treat, 2 hours to cut sides out. Tools used so far are router, cross cut saw, and sandpaper. (dont have a table saw so got timber yard to cut 8x4's into managable sizes).
When I get back to work I'll sort out pictures of build (i've tried to get photo's of each stage).
Hopefully have cabinets glued and finished by end of week.
Logged on in local library to give you an update.
usual holiday weather up here in Scarborough.
Managed to get a couple of days on the curvey Chang.
Did a dry fit yesterday of cabinet basics (havn't done braces etc yet).
Got to say in the flesh with that narrow waist, it looks soooo sexy.
Definately a winner.
Template works a treat, 2 hours to cut sides out. Tools used so far are router, cross cut saw, and sandpaper. (dont have a table saw so got timber yard to cut 8x4's into managable sizes).
When I get back to work I'll sort out pictures of build (i've tried to get photo's of each stage).
Hopefully have cabinets glued and finished by end of week.
st had a look at GY's build, the ply looks so much better than MDF, which due to costs and availabilty I,ve had to use.
By the way to all you avid speeker builders is this familiar:-
Why are you starting a second pair, you hav'nt finished them yet!
Move all this wood!
Where are they going to go!
etc etc
By the way to all you avid speeker builders is this familiar:-
Why are you starting a second pair, you hav'nt finished them yet!
Move all this wood!
Where are they going to go!
etc etc
😀
Yep. I think most of us have heard that one at some point or other (or constantly). Glad all's proceeding well with the build.
Yep. I think most of us have heard that one at some point or other (or constantly). Glad all's proceeding well with the build.
Any word on a Curvy Chang for the 127
I would really like to see a smaller version for the FE127. I've been working on set of Harvey's but the angles and glue up are proving to be no fun.
We could call the small curvy version, "Xiao Wan" which roughly means "small curve" in Chinese. (I assume GY is Korean from his icon, but I don't know anyone that speaks Korean. Please don't be offended).
I would really like to see a smaller version for the FE127. I've been working on set of Harvey's but the angles and glue up are proving to be no fun.
We could call the small curvy version, "Xiao Wan" which roughly means "small curve" in Chinese. (I assume GY is Korean from his icon, but I don't know anyone that speaks Korean. Please don't be offended).
There will be one, no worries on that score, but I'm taking things a little steady at the moment so as not to flood Dave with a bunch of cabinet ideas (like I did last time 😉 ) and Ron's pretty hectic with work at present too. You guys will be the first to know of it. I can tell you in advance however that it'll be a fair bit smaller than any of the others thus far -in the 48 - 50in tall region.
heres a link to my google sketchup 3d image you can download and change: curved Chang Frugal BVR double horn. Based on dimensions supplied from frugal horn site.
Curved Chang
3dimage above doesn't have the tweeter I added later below ( Just wiped it up this monring 🙂 )
should they be built with the sides complete top to bottom, or to the top/bottom/back and fit the sides within? if you know what I mean...
also an idea of where to put any sound deadening sheets & fill...
Curved Chang
3dimage above doesn't have the tweeter I added later below ( Just wiped it up this monring 🙂 )
should they be built with the sides complete top to bottom, or to the top/bottom/back and fit the sides within? if you know what I mean...
also an idea of where to put any sound deadening sheets & fill...
stevodude said:
Guess i should start warehousing them as i do them and save you guys redoing them (althou SketchUp is so much fun, you might go ahad anyways 🙂)
Based on the original CAD drawings
dave
PS: anyone have any idea why Google calls me anonymous... it certainly nows who's models they are.
stevodude said:
Whatever you prefer, mine are getting the sides all the way to the edges, that way I only have to set the fence to 240mm (or whatever it is) and it looks a bit better from the sides at the expense of the top.
I'm also doing the joint between the baffle and the chamber top and bottom at 45 degrees to hide the ply edges. I bought a couple of picture frame clamps today to help glue that joint.
With the damping I was told polyfill on the top, one side and the back in particular across that triangle and play with it from there. make sure you keep the ports well clear. It's easy to add some more by laying it in the bottom. The most important part is the back behind the driver.
Has anyone looked at using something fancy like a Lowther or AER MK1 in these cabinets?
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