Hi.
Dave, anything on the ft17 and probably the 207 would be great
thanks any version R12 seems the most trustworthy.
Like OzMike I aim to bi-amp with active crossover eventualy.
Still digesting Rons comments, its first thing in the morning, but I think a seperate sub baffle for the ft17 seems the best way initialy, then I can vary the time alingnement.
Dave, anything on the ft17 and probably the 207 would be great
thanks any version R12 seems the most trustworthy.
Like OzMike I aim to bi-amp with active crossover eventualy.
Still digesting Rons comments, its first thing in the morning, but I think a seperate sub baffle for the ft17 seems the best way initialy, then I can vary the time alingnement.
Hi Dave,
I've got the files thank you.
I've got a basic 3D model built in Autodesk Inventor, but do need to check and alter some dimensions.
Im holiday for the next two weeks, but when I get back I'll sort somthing out, as I can output a variety of formats.
What system are you using?
I am also going to instal the newest version which has some improved rendering tools, which would be fun to play with.
So I must say goodbye to you all for a couple of weeks, hopefully I will be well on the way to finishing a set of Curvey Changs, I cut out a template for 1 side on the CNC machine at work, so the hard part is done.
Had a chat with the misis about them and I think she agreed I could build them, sooo that problems out of the way.
I've got the files thank you.
I've got a basic 3D model built in Autodesk Inventor, but do need to check and alter some dimensions.
Im holiday for the next two weeks, but when I get back I'll sort somthing out, as I can output a variety of formats.
What system are you using?
I am also going to instal the newest version which has some improved rendering tools, which would be fun to play with.
So I must say goodbye to you all for a couple of weeks, hopefully I will be well on the way to finishing a set of Curvey Changs, I cut out a template for 1 side on the CNC machine at work, so the hard part is done.
Had a chat with the misis about them and I think she agreed I could build them, sooo that problems out of the way.
😀
I might ask if I can borrow that template off you Marc when you've finished with it, and assuming it'd be OK for re-use? 🙂
I might ask if I can borrow that template off you Marc when you've finished with it, and assuming it'd be OK for re-use? 🙂
with pleasure.
I was going to use a couple of 8x4 sheets to make a very large router compass, but wouldn't have got the accuracy, plus with the template I can cut both parts of the side in one go.
With this build I am going to
a. document it so with pictures
b. FINISH the cabinets before I put the drivers in them, cos I know if I dont I wont.
I was going to use a couple of 8x4 sheets to make a very large router compass, but wouldn't have got the accuracy, plus with the template I can cut both parts of the side in one go.
With this build I am going to
a. document it so with pictures
b. FINISH the cabinets before I put the drivers in them, cos I know if I dont I wont.
I've been down that road a few times myself... 😉
Many thanks Marc -I'll look forward to reading your progress (& using the template when the time comes). If I can help with anything, give me a shout -I'm only about an hour's drive away.
Many thanks Marc -I'll look forward to reading your progress (& using the template when the time comes). If I can help with anything, give me a shout -I'm only about an hour's drive away.
Hi Scott,
almost escaped from work.
I'm looking forward to actually seeing the speakers in the flesh so to speak.
Actualy having a side give more of an impression of what the finished thing will look like. Its hard to find analagies to the impression I got, akin to a large bird of prey sat on a rock waiting to strike. The slim waist and narrow front look quite delicate but the curve looks bigger in the flesh, (and slightly menanacing, like a hooked beak) if you see what I mean.
They will be the sort of thing people are going to walk into a room and see and just go wow.
I'll try and let you all know how its going and depending how far I get I may be back begging advice.
No computer at home at the moment though, kids had an argument over it.
almost escaped from work.
I'm looking forward to actually seeing the speakers in the flesh so to speak.
Actualy having a side give more of an impression of what the finished thing will look like. Its hard to find analagies to the impression I got, akin to a large bird of prey sat on a rock waiting to strike. The slim waist and narrow front look quite delicate but the curve looks bigger in the flesh, (and slightly menanacing, like a hooked beak) if you see what I mean.
They will be the sort of thing people are going to walk into a room and see and just go wow.
I'll try and let you all know how its going and depending how far I get I may be back begging advice.
No computer at home at the moment though, kids had an argument over it.
Hi again Scott,
just as a little play last night after a beer or ten and my mind was thinking outside the box (pun inteneded if not funny),
I used to have a Carsboro bass bin, sooo I wondered if it would be possible to combine a curvy chang with a bass bin inside sharing the same mouth flare.
I did some rought sketches and reckon using 8x4 sheets for sides you could get quite a beast. Obviously totaly impractical for normal domestic situations but fun to think about.
just as a little play last night after a beer or ten and my mind was thinking outside the box (pun inteneded if not funny),
I used to have a Carsboro bass bin, sooo I wondered if it would be possible to combine a curvy chang with a bass bin inside sharing the same mouth flare.
I did some rought sketches and reckon using 8x4 sheets for sides you could get quite a beast. Obviously totaly impractical for normal domestic situations but fun to think about.
marce said:
I'd be interested in getting the drivers into SketchUp. It seems to read a 3D DWG fine.
dave
Funny you should mention that...
I was wondering how to assist the extreme bottom end with an integrated (sub?) woofer.
Add three inches to the height, then use the void in the bottom for 12 inch driver. the volume would be close to 30 litres, need to design in conjunction with driver selection of course.
about 100Hz Xover.
This might make a real mess of the coherence of the bass. Please let me know if it's a dumb idea.
I was wondering how to assist the extreme bottom end with an integrated (sub?) woofer.
Add three inches to the height, then use the void in the bottom for 12 inch driver. the volume would be close to 30 litres, need to design in conjunction with driver selection of course.
about 100Hz Xover.
This might make a real mess of the coherence of the bass. Please let me know if it's a dumb idea.
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Ron & GM are the experts on this sort of thing -guys? FWIW, I'd probably be a bit wary, although as our hearing in the extreme lows is ~rotten anyway it's probably not going to cause as many problems as it might do higher up the FR.
Greets!
It's not a dumb idea per se, it's been done by a number of boutique horn manufacturers in recent years with the advent of relatively cheap electronics, though as a bi or quad-pole layout to get efficiency up while keeping construction simple/light without enough vibration to excite the horn's modes. The XO point needs to be low/steep though to blend with a proper horn's ~24 dB/octave final roll off as well as keep it out of our acute hearing BW and why it will work better with a typical BVR than the slower rolling off BLHs designed to hopefully mate well enough with the room's gain curve. In the days of passive XOs, the 'sub' was instead typically a BP to keep the XO simple/cheap, though it was huge due to the drivers of the day having a very high Vas by today's standards.
GM
It's not a dumb idea per se, it's been done by a number of boutique horn manufacturers in recent years with the advent of relatively cheap electronics, though as a bi or quad-pole layout to get efficiency up while keeping construction simple/light without enough vibration to excite the horn's modes. The XO point needs to be low/steep though to blend with a proper horn's ~24 dB/octave final roll off as well as keep it out of our acute hearing BW and why it will work better with a typical BVR than the slower rolling off BLHs designed to hopefully mate well enough with the room's gain curve. In the days of passive XOs, the 'sub' was instead typically a BP to keep the XO simple/cheap, though it was huge due to the drivers of the day having a very high Vas by today's standards.
GM
This idea is very similar in concept to the Stealth Woofers for the Frugel-Horn. If you can find a woofer (8 or 10 or 12) that fits into 30 litres and gives reasonable/worthwhile extension do let me know. The Extremis fit into 22 litres (things are looking good for a replacement soon), but i'd really like to find a woofer where i could fit a pair in push-push in a similar volume (i can actually spare 28 litres for the FonkenWoof)
dave
dave
To those who are experienced with the FE207E:
Has anyone measured the frequency response of a phase plugged one around 10-15kHz?
I ask because about to order some parts for some line level XOs.
The Chang's calculated response looks great all the way to 40Hz, This seems too good to be true. What does excursion look like below 100Hz?
I ask this because I may as well get the parts for the low end if I tri-amp with a helper sub later on.
Has anyone measured the frequency response of a phase plugged one around 10-15kHz?
I ask because about to order some parts for some line level XOs.
The Chang's calculated response looks great all the way to 40Hz, This seems too good to be true. What does excursion look like below 100Hz?
I ask this because I may as well get the parts for the low end if I tri-amp with a helper sub later on.
No sub needed then. Very, very impressive.
If Chang ever gets a woofer pal like Calhoun it's going to be huge. (I won't need one)
If Chang ever gets a woofer pal like Calhoun it's going to be huge. (I won't need one)
OzMikeH said:
If you like those 16 Hz peddles -- a pr of ShadowSD12 should take the bottom down well below 20. And with authority.
If you want huge then double the width and have a pair of push-push SD12.
http://p10hifi.net/planet10/CSS/CSS-SD12-subduction-data.pdf
Make a nice 3-way system. Active at 50-60 Hz.
dave
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