SONIDO SWR 300/A
Love those cabinets! I also own SWR300, would love to get the cabinet drawings for my carpenter.
Btw: how much differ the swr300 from the sfr-200a soundwise?
Thanks...a DIY newbie..
Gerald
These drivers differ in that the SFR 200/A is an 8" driver for horn structure and the SWR 300/A is a 12" driver for a bass reflex design and it is up to 15 Hz. I give you a cabinet drawing for them, please write to : info@sonido.hu
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Anyone willing to explain to a newb what "a little Eq and adjustment" specifically means? I'm considering a Cube build and this sounds like something important for me to know. ThanksI have a pair of F8 Magus here, and I like them very much. I would put them in the same rank as my Feastrex D9's, Lowther PM6A's, and Voxativs. All these have differences that may appeal (or not) to you, but with a little Eq and adjustment I can live with any of them.
@alxhill A little EQ can be a combination of damping the driver and notching a part of the high mid frequency range around the frequency you don’t like. You can do that with active or passive crossovers where the active ones mostly used today is digital crossovers. You can also play with the baffle size and position of the driver. This can be simluated in Edge and the software is free. I will suggest you study Martin King website. He explain ans show many examples how driveers behave in different baffles and also provide the calculations and link to ex. Edge. www.quarter-wave.com
Interesting, from what I read a big appeal of a full range driver is avoiding any crossover. I would assume getting plans from the manufacturer might put you off on a good foot, assuming they did the homework for baffle size, etc.
For active analog EQ, would something like the Schiit Loki serve this purpose? Or is something like a Sublime Acoustics or Marchand audio XO more appropriate?
For active analog EQ, would something like the Schiit Loki serve this purpose? Or is something like a Sublime Acoustics or Marchand audio XO more appropriate?
a big appeal of a full range driver is avoiding any crossover. I would assume getting plans from the manufacturer might put you off on a good foot, assuming they did the homework for baffle size, etc.
The holy grail is a FR that needs no filters. Instead of bandaiding with EQ i prefer to tackle issues at the source by modding the driver.
Cube's boxes are not, Lowthers are a bit of a mystery, and and i haven’t seen the inside of any of the Voxatives. And Innes is a bit arrogant.
Note, consider that source and the ampifier driving the loudspeakers probably should cost many times the loudspeakers.
dave
Yes, you are right but you know evolution, ease of meassuring and correct/change behaviour is not difficult today. In the old days where FR was the deal we used horn systems and had low powered tube amps. It is so when you vocie a speaker a flat freq respsonce is not desireable. Some recording engineer would disagree. Our ears/brain is quit sensitive around 2-5khz and if you are pregnant (guess not an option with you but gotta covver all baes thee days) this areas is 10 times more sensitive. Infavt our hormon balance is playing a part og how we hear and why hearing is extreme subjective in combination with our mood, interior decoration and our stress level……..I use a SB Acoustics 8” FR. Iam very happy with it. Some say the mivng mass is on the heavy side but it is also obvious that there is not cut corners on the magnet. The driver is very affordable and I would say one of the best beginner drivers around. Before that i have owned Cube Audio, Feastrex, Lii Audio, Ming and Flyak. On my bucket list is drivers from Zlotz and Seas. When the conditions is better in Ukraine I will get me a set of Flyak and I will defenately go for Field coil versions. I ise 2x2 custom made 15” inches. In series I have a huge inductor. I have had capacitors in series with the Fr to reduce its LF reproduction. I find no need for a notch filter which prove I am for sure not pregnant either. Don’t damp the FR. The drvers are matching perfecto my liking. I should receive a Douk Audio A5 mini amp. It has a highpass filter which I ofcourse would like to try out. Could add some more clarity in the low mid……..next is to try to plate amps. Then my system is active. I have no experince with the cross overs you mention. From what i understand reading about users systems many are happy with the digital minidsp brand. Personaly I find it more fun to play with the acoustics and make as simle as possible. Attached my latest version……..Interesting, from what I read a big appeal of a full range driver is avoiding any crossover. I would assume getting plans from the manufacturer might put you off on a good foot, assuming they did the homework for baffle size, etc.
For active analog EQ, would something like the Schiit Loki serve this purpose? Or is something like a Sublime Acoustics or Marchand audio XO more appropriate?
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While we are talk Cube drivers, does anyone know much about the box design/ construction?
I took this photo from a review a while back.. considering what they charge for their boxes, it looks like “ Poverty Packed” construction!
Looks like Mdf or similar particle board for the “ sloping panel” and is a bit hard to see what they’ve used for the sides, but the glue work is pretty sloppy considering the price!
Probably someone has an opinion on the quality of their stuffing and speaker wire??
I took this photo from a review a while back.. considering what they charge for their boxes, it looks like “ Poverty Packed” construction!
Looks like Mdf or similar particle board for the “ sloping panel” and is a bit hard to see what they’ve used for the sides, but the glue work is pretty sloppy considering the price!
Probably someone has an opinion on the quality of their stuffing and speaker wire??
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@JohnnyDee Hey, now that you already have concluded Cube do a sloppy job making their cabinets why do you wanna know then? How aboout studying how users have builded their cabinets for their drivers and in general study how to build the type of cabinet Cube use? OR visit Cube Audios Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1E2oC8TYL1/
Hi Wow Factor..
I guess my point is that considering that Cube apparently have a reputation for making excellent drivers, and they are expensive, I would expect that their boxes which are Very expensive ( my mathematics suggests that it costs an extra €6500 for the “Jazzon” box compared to the FC 10 driver on its own), then if I was the Customer, I would expect High Quality box construction..
When I found these photos, First of all it confirmed to me that the “ Folded Voigt Pipe” design was worth making..( if Cube use it then it should be good) .
Secondly, it encouraged me to build my own boxes, I believe that my woodworking skills easily equaled theirs..
Thirdly, it made me realize just how much profit and mark up goes into commercial products, further encouraging me to make my own speaker boxes..
Fourthly, as their box materials looked to be “average” in quality, it encouraged me to build from superior materials to get a better sound!
So, although I don’t want to pay the Premium prices that Cube ask for their products, I felt confident, that I could eventually build a speaker that would sound nearly as good..
So, from something negative, came something good!
Maybe my experience will encourage others to build their own speakers??
I guess my point is that considering that Cube apparently have a reputation for making excellent drivers, and they are expensive, I would expect that their boxes which are Very expensive ( my mathematics suggests that it costs an extra €6500 for the “Jazzon” box compared to the FC 10 driver on its own), then if I was the Customer, I would expect High Quality box construction..
When I found these photos, First of all it confirmed to me that the “ Folded Voigt Pipe” design was worth making..( if Cube use it then it should be good) .
Secondly, it encouraged me to build my own boxes, I believe that my woodworking skills easily equaled theirs..
Thirdly, it made me realize just how much profit and mark up goes into commercial products, further encouraging me to make my own speaker boxes..
Fourthly, as their box materials looked to be “average” in quality, it encouraged me to build from superior materials to get a better sound!
So, although I don’t want to pay the Premium prices that Cube ask for their products, I felt confident, that I could eventually build a speaker that would sound nearly as good..
So, from something negative, came something good!
Maybe my experience will encourage others to build their own speakers??
I would expect that their boxes
to be well designed but they aren’t that great.
dave
Hi Dave,
Going by the choice of materials, I started to wonder a bit about their box design! Can you explain briefly what they are doing wrong?
Going by the choice of materials, I started to wonder a bit about their box design! Can you explain briefly what they are doing wrong?
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A parametric eq would work better but needs measurement to setup.Interesting, from what I read a big appeal of a full range driver is avoiding any crossover. I would assume getting plans from the manufacturer might put you off on a good foot, assuming they did the homework for baffle size, etc.
For active analog EQ, would something like the Schiit Loki serve this purpose? Or is something like a Sublime Acoustics or Marchand audio XO more appropriate?
For a more intuitive adjustments in the analog domain, the classic Quad tone control was useful and quick: it had a bass lift/reduction; a tone balance; and a number of high frequency filters with slope choices.
One only has to look at their ML-TLs or Voigts. The voigts look like they are spit out of one of the “classic” calculators, a waste of plywood.
If this is the right thread, a tall skinny box with vents at the bottom and driver near the top is called a Reflex but is actually an ML-TL. Very poorly conceived bracinmg.
Good drivers, but having seen so many poor designs from respected vendors to amateurs i am always suspicious, and check any design i plan to build.
dave
If this is the right thread, a tall skinny box with vents at the bottom and driver near the top is called a Reflex but is actually an ML-TL. Very poorly conceived bracinmg.
Good drivers, but having seen so many poor designs from respected vendors to amateurs i am always suspicious, and check any design i plan to build.
dave
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