Are these details still correct please:
"As a tweeter I will use the DX25BG60-04 (peerless)
-100w 4ohms with ±91dB sensitivity
As Midranger I'm using an Aiyima brand speaker.
With these specifications:
Power: 30W Impedance: 4 ohms/8 ohms ± 15%
Category: round/square
Sensitivity: 88dB ± 3dB
Voice coil diameter: 25MM
Resonant frequency: 94Hz
Effective Frequency: 94Hz-10KHz
QTS: 0.72
Equivalent volume: 4.6L
As a woofer I'm using the JBL 10px"
Manufacturer frequency response graphs are available for the tweeter, don't know about the others. If you have those graphs, someone could make an approximation of a possible crossover, but it wouldn't be accurate as they don't have your drivers or cabinet.
Without measurements, you don't know how accurate are the makers' data and impedance figures anyway; I forget whether you have measuring equipment.
A pre-built crossover or simulation using makers' data will make noise, but maybe not the kind of noise you want from your $$ and hard work. It's an excellent suggestion to use an external crossover so you can play around with different parts.
Geoff
"As a tweeter I will use the DX25BG60-04 (peerless)
-100w 4ohms with ±91dB sensitivity
As Midranger I'm using an Aiyima brand speaker.
With these specifications:
Power: 30W Impedance: 4 ohms/8 ohms ± 15%
Category: round/square
Sensitivity: 88dB ± 3dB
Voice coil diameter: 25MM
Resonant frequency: 94Hz
Effective Frequency: 94Hz-10KHz
QTS: 0.72
Equivalent volume: 4.6L
As a woofer I'm using the JBL 10px"
Manufacturer frequency response graphs are available for the tweeter, don't know about the others. If you have those graphs, someone could make an approximation of a possible crossover, but it wouldn't be accurate as they don't have your drivers or cabinet.
Without measurements, you don't know how accurate are the makers' data and impedance figures anyway; I forget whether you have measuring equipment.
A pre-built crossover or simulation using makers' data will make noise, but maybe not the kind of noise you want from your $$ and hard work. It's an excellent suggestion to use an external crossover so you can play around with different parts.
Geoff
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The frequencies have to be the same for each driver. Eg woofer to mid then mid to tweeter. Your tweeter should have 1.5 uF to 2.2 uF cap feeding it.
The embryonic crossover shown earlier assumes 4 ohm drivers with fL = 400 Hz and fH = 3200 Hz, using the fH = 8fL guidelines.
The Peerless DX25BG60-04 has a resonance frequency of 400 Hz.
3200 Hz is 3 octaves above 400 Hz. It was on that basis that a 12 uF capacitor was chosen.
Crude I know, but it was only intended to be a tutorial example and NOT a finalised crossover!
Galu, you're right; the JBL was the one mentioned in an earlier thread.
I can't make out the writing on the woofer frame.
Geoff
I can't make out the writing on the woofer frame.
Geoff
@Galu @GeoffMillar
I'm using an XS 400/10″ woofer from the Brazilian brand Falcon...
It was the best I could come up with here and still with a linear response
I'm using an XS 400/10″ woofer from the Brazilian brand Falcon...
It was the best I could come up with here and still with a linear response
Here's what I said in one of your associated threads (https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/crossover-the-infamous-capacitors.414191/):
At the time of that thread you already had 18 threads open, each related in one aspect or another to your 3-way speaker project.
I really think the time is now ripe to complete your speaker build to see how it sounds then consider, if necessary, making future improvements.
At the time of that thread you already had 18 threads open, each related in one aspect or another to your 3-way speaker project.
I really think the time is now ripe to complete your speaker build to see how it sounds then consider, if necessary, making future improvements.
@GeoffMillar
In that earlier thread you asked of Pedroga, "Is that all of the parts in your crossover: that's four parts for a three way crossover?".
To which JMFahey replied:
"That's the bare minimum and yes, it will work.
Can you improve it? .... You bet!
But that does not invalidate the basic principles."
To which you replied, "The OP's proposed crossover will produce noise, no doubt about that, but I think it would at least need some padding on the tweeter, which could of course be added later after tweaking."
Pedroga has now included L pad resistors and I think we should let him get on with it. Learning by doing - I'm all for that!
P.S. We are now on thread 22 relating to Pedroga's 3-way speaker project. It's time for him to fly!
In that earlier thread you asked of Pedroga, "Is that all of the parts in your crossover: that's four parts for a three way crossover?".
To which JMFahey replied:
"That's the bare minimum and yes, it will work.
Can you improve it? .... You bet!
But that does not invalidate the basic principles."
To which you replied, "The OP's proposed crossover will produce noise, no doubt about that, but I think it would at least need some padding on the tweeter, which could of course be added later after tweaking."
Pedroga has now included L pad resistors and I think we should let him get on with it. Learning by doing - I'm all for that!
P.S. We are now on thread 22 relating to Pedroga's 3-way speaker project. It's time for him to fly!
I'm giving my all to this project.I'm super excited to see these things playing and a little scared about this noise that will happen lol I hope I can fix it.I'm using simulators, measurements, everything.And mainly the help of everyone on the forum lolFor everyone who once doubted, I'll make it lol (I doubted too).I also hope to get some quality, since it's my first project
Let me assure you that by "noise" Geoff simply meant "sound".
Hopefully there will be no distortion.
I await your final assembly and test.
@GeoffMillar @Galu Thank you very much.About the resistors, can I really use those values? The ones I managed to make.
Hi, the tweeter and midrange are 4 ohm. They both have a L-pad with the serie / paralell resistors. The L-pad in the tweeter give you - 5.26db and the midrange L-pad live you -40.27db. So tweeter sensi @ 86.74db and mid sensi @ 47.73db.
The combinations of resistors on your 4 ohm tweeter L pad give Rs = 1.8 ohm and Rp = 6 ohm.
This will give around 4 dB of attenuation. (The standard resistors I would use for this would be 1.5 and 6.8 so you are not far off).
The mid driver may not require attenuation, so initially I suggest you do not put an L-pad on it.
This will give around 4 dB of attenuation. (The standard resistors I would use for this would be 1.5 and 6.8 so you are not far off).
The mid driver may not require attenuation, so initially I suggest you do not put an L-pad on it.
@Sagen @Galu I turned on the midranger next to the woofer and it seems much louder (listening to them raw)
the woofer has a sensitivity of 87db
the midranger has a sensitivity of 88db
I need to review the sensitivity of the tweeter but I remember that it must be attenuated by 4.2db so that they all match the sensuality of the woofer.
the woofer has a sensitivity of 87db
the midranger has a sensitivity of 88db
I need to review the sensitivity of the tweeter but I remember that it must be attenuated by 4.2db so that they all match the sensuality of the woofer.
Specs: https://speakerboxlite.com/subwoofers/falcon-xs-400-8/specifications
It's a 4 ohm subwoofer:
Sensitivity(dB) 1W 87.5
Sensitivity(dB) 2.8V 90.6
Build the system. The enclosure will boost the bass. You can attenuate the mid afterwards if found necessary.
Changes are almost sure to be required, but you must have built your speaker system before you can judge which changes are necessary..
I believe your "mid" speaker is actually a full range driver. Above you give its specifications as:
Aiyima brand speaker
Impedance: 4 ohms/8 ohms ± 15%
Sensitivity: 88dB ± 3dB
Do you have a link to the full specifications of this driver?