Compression driver with horn, help!

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#41
I don't know of a link, but there surely are some -- maybe as little Excel spreadsheet bits. I'm a little foggy as to why you want the amp to see a flat impedance curve, though ..

You might try a more general search spec, like "loudspeaker crossover calculator".

The word "crossover" by itself unfortunately brings up an avalanche of car adverts.

Cheers
 
#47
What do you think about this 2" FaitalPro HF200 compression driver?


Not very powerful but for a Hi-Fi system this is not a problem, the price is soft (200 Euros).


FaitalPRO | HF Drivers | HF200


HF200_response_8.gif
 
#52
The HF2xy are actually 1.4" drivers with an adaptor in front. The advantage over the HF14x drivers is that you can mount them on a 2" horn without needing to buy an external adaptor. The disadvantage is that they are less "beefy" than the usual 2" drivers that usually have larger diaphragms. But for home listening a 1.4" driver is often a good compromise because they deliver enough SPL for a home situation and often have better HF extension than 2" models.


Regards


Charles (using HF146 on XT1464)
 
#53
phase_accurate said:
The HF2xy are actually 1.4" drivers with an adaptor in front. The advantage over the HF14x drivers is that you can mount them on a 2" horn without needing to buy an external adaptor. The disadvantage is that they are less "beefy" than the usual 2" drivers that usually have larger diaphragms. But for home listening a 1.4" driver is often a good compromise because they deliver enough SPL for a home situation and often have better HF extension than 2" models.


Regards


Charles (using HF146 on XT1464)
Click to expand...


Do you mean that FaitalPro HF14x use the same mounting holes than HF20x?


Anyway I use a tweeter from 7000Hz - 8000Hz
 
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#56
Material shouldn't matter too much, it is a preference maybe (looks). The horn has to support the weight of the driver. Aluminium rings easier, but if the ringing isn't dampend when screwed to a frontpanel, you can always apply some dampening material on the back. So, choose based on horn design not material 😉

About evaluating a horn design: Smoother change in the mouth to front panel is better (less sound diffracted / reflected back to throat). Avoid horns with abrupt changes in throat area, so avoid diffraction slot designs and try to match exit angle of the driver to the horn throat. Less reflections in the throat. All this is to eliminate "horn honk".

Constant Directivity horn gets you similar on axis and off axis response which means the power response will be nice and sweet spot will be larger.

Still, some people like old horns which are not constant directivity, and have weird shapes, diffraction slots, bad mounths and still couldn't be happier 🙂 So, especially big horns are largely a visual and emotional thing.

For hifi use, I'd go with a constant directivity horn with OS profile. See the ATH4 thread, there is a free tool there that you can use to design a horn that has a shape and size you like, and be able to simulate it (mind you size and shape relate to the complete speaker system design). It looks like it is easy to outperform any commercial horns with aid of the Mabats software and insane DIY skills 😉 But, you could just buy some nice aluminium or plastic horns with very little money and get on with it. Have fun!🙂
 
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#57
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