By the way, a lot of measures of KEF Q300:
[German] Hifi-Selbstbau - KEF Q300
Case Opening - KEF Q300
I discovered that he has an arm inside. Maybe my KEF Q100 too.
![URL]](/community/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2F%5BURL%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fhorologyzone.com%2Fdiyer%2Fcase_opening%2Fimage%2Fkef_q300%2FP1070267.JPG%5B%2FURL%5D&hash=ae4228ce3f3687c8f14053e4a2c0c1b0)
[German] Hifi-Selbstbau - KEF Q300
Case Opening - KEF Q300
I discovered that he has an arm inside. Maybe my KEF Q100 too.
At one point Amazon had them for $230, I bought a pair last December from them when they were $250. They could go down again. They'll eventually end up in a DIY three-way.
For example high pass of Q100 is acoustically LR2, though it could be electrically 1st order with single cap. Low pass is just bad. It should be 2nd order to work properly. HP slope forces to invert polarity.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Simple but not the best tweak: added 10 uF + 6.8 ohms Zobel to woofer. It's quite okay, but level of tweeter should be higher.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
@maty tinman - OT post deleted. You may want to start your own thread or continue the discussion at an existing thread.
New thread with my three questions:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/part...ires-10nf-polystyrene-bypass.html#post5388152
And I am sorry
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/part...ires-10nf-polystyrene-bypass.html#post5388152
And I am sorry
Also for me 6dB low-pass xover is part of the ultimate speaker design on top of point source/coaxials. And additionally with DSP I can LP cut the mid steep at 10kHz - that is no as "devastating" as having a 2-nd order LP. The FR flatness is by far not the most important thing for audio quality perception (IMO obviously ..)
Measurements by Zilch:
And my measurements once more for comparison:
And my measurements once more for comparison:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I just started my own thread about the 18 Sound coaxial drivers.
(I hadn't seen this tread at the time.)
18 Sound Coaxial drivers?
I'd be grateful if you could post there, and gives some more info, like why you chose this particular one, and final specs, size, weight, etc.
Love this thread... Happen to have a pair of what I consider the ultimate Hi-Fi coax... The P-Audio 18CX. I so want to do a seal box and ported configuration for this driver. Have designed and demonstrated a couple of OB versions. Quite interesting.
Getting ready for the Lone Star Audio Fest coming up in Dallas the first weekend in May.... but once I am back... will work on getting this wonderful driver doing the best it can in some sort of reasonably sized box, but remember, we are talking about a 98.5 DB/Watt 18" woofer section.
Getting ready for the Lone Star Audio Fest coming up in Dallas the first weekend in May.... but once I am back... will work on getting this wonderful driver doing the best it can in some sort of reasonably sized box, but remember, we are talking about a 98.5 DB/Watt 18" woofer section.
How would the home audio coaxials such as the new tang band or eminence compare with something like these. I think these have a build in crossover and cast frame and are decent.
Infinity Kappa 62ix 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield
Infinity Kappa 62ix 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield
I think the thing with the homes is that they can orient around performance that much more- they place the tweeter diaphragm such that it's near the apex of the cone. The car audio mounting makes more sense in some respects (cone motion will not impact tweeter performance as much) but basically gives a worst-case interference pattern for the tweeter.
One "ideal" is for a nearly stationary midrange, coupled extremely smoothly to a tweeter that uses the midrange as a waveguide, as it matches the dispersion patterns. This effective waveguiding can be done with a longer throat (pro style rear coax mounting) which achieves a deeper throat and pushes the loading a little lower in frequency, or with a more "homefi" approach of the diaphragm mounted right near the cone apex.
There are other methods for sure, but for home hifi, the "forward" mounted tweeter isn't generally considered a good design choice.