Generally those AC line filters are to prevent spurious signals from getting back on the AC line. Not required on analog amplifiers as they don't do any nasty switching. A good CLC, CRC or cap multiplier (which is what I use on Aleph J) work really well to filter your AC.
True, but they don’t hurt at all, filter the RF junk off the AC line, and score cool points.
A 30W aleph will only pull about 2A from the wall, so anything 3-4A or bigger will be sufficient. I usually buy 6A or 10A so they will work in whatever future project they might be reused into. Get whatever is in stock.
A 30W aleph will only pull about 2A from the wall, so anything 3-4A or bigger will be sufficient. I usually buy 6A or 10A so they will work in whatever future project they might be reused into. Get whatever is in stock.
Hi All,
I´m just restarting my build soon, and would order the chassis - but there is some confusion (in my head...).
I´m building two Aleph 60 monoblocks, so which chassis would be suitable? I read here 4U - but 400, or 500? Or 5U400?
Many thanks in advance.
I´m just restarting my build soon, and would order the chassis - but there is some confusion (in my head...).
I´m building two Aleph 60 monoblocks, so which chassis would be suitable? I read here 4U - but 400, or 500? Or 5U400?
Many thanks in advance.
For a pair of monoblocks, any of the above would work fine. I put two channels of an A60 into a 4U/500. It's certainly on the warm side, but nothing too hot. Splitting it into 2 4U/400 would be more than fine. A pair of 3U/400 would be fine.
Edited to add - Simul post from Randy.... 🙂
Edited to add - Simul post from Randy.... 🙂
How does the thermal load get split between heatsinks? Plott, are you considering one heatsink per channel or two sinks per channel?
Two sinks per channel, one for the main board, the other one for the extension (or four, if it's a 400 or 500).
I think I will stick to a 4u400, with 3 FETs per sink (=12).
I think I will stick to a 4u400, with 3 FETs per sink (=12).
@von Ah The Classic Aleph is modular, so there’s a 2nd PCB that holds Mosfets on the other heatsink.
Randy, I have now found your build of the A60 in 4u300.
Do you still use the amp regularly (because it's 2.5 years old)?
How is or was the temperature behavior and long-term durability?
I have my M2x in a 4u300, but it's an other, tamer animal.
Thanks in advance.
Do you still use the amp regularly (because it's 2.5 years old)?
How is or was the temperature behavior and long-term durability?
I have my M2x in a 4u300, but it's an other, tamer animal.
Thanks in advance.
I have been running my Aleph 30's daily for 2.5 years. I'm on the 3rd set of PCB's - first prototypes, then first GB rev, then the updated boards with additional rail caps. Temp is consistent, and long term reliability is also great.
Thanks Randy, sounds good - any experience with your Aleph 60's in the 4u300?
Would be much appreciated!
Would be much appreciated!
Randy Thatcher's Aleph 30 with IRFp250 mosfets in 4u chassis with W12 PSU - Dual Antek AS-4220 traffos. I also used the Soft start circuits from Randy. Just putting it on test. All power mosfets matched to within .002 vgs. All input mosfets matched equally to each other on both channels. I've seen heatsink temps between 40 - 48 degC.
330mV on each mosfet.
330mV on each mosfet.
Attachments
And then you got Randy's Aleph 2 monoblocks.... which drive Maggies like Fangio drove at the race track.
5U, 400mm.
I wonder if he ever figured out how to cool the 1.2 amps.
;-)
5U, 400mm.
I wonder if he ever figured out how to cool the 1.2 amps.
;-)
Dual Mono A30 in the new super cool chassis - well done!!! How does it sound?
One safety comment - I don't see one fuse per donut, am I mistaken?
One safety comment - I don't see one fuse per donut, am I mistaken?
A disturbing problem has developed with one of my Aleph 30 monoblock builds. When the unit is turned on (connected to a speaker) and with or without input source, it will pop fairly loudly one time -- typically 2 or 3 minutes after it is on and while warming up. Does this once and then performs perfectly. DC Offset set to 0 and all calibrations correct. Have carefully checked all of the Mosfet connections and know the board has the correct part values.
Am wondering if this is a defective Mosfet -- it's one of Randy's kits. The only other device I can think of would be a capacitor. Am at my winter place and all of my electronic tools are at the summer one so I can't do a full tear down.
But if anyone has a similar experience/solution to share would appreciate the info.
Again, one pop then perfect repro.
Am wondering if this is a defective Mosfet -- it's one of Randy's kits. The only other device I can think of would be a capacitor. Am at my winter place and all of my electronic tools are at the summer one so I can't do a full tear down.
But if anyone has a similar experience/solution to share would appreciate the info.
Again, one pop then perfect repro.