How bright are these optic light pipes? I would probably think one per channel would look best. Four lights on the front panel might be busy.
I'd probably divide the front panel widthwise in thirds and drill the holes at 1/3 and 2/3. Probably about a third up from the bottom of the faceplate. You could experiment with little dots of colored tape to assess before drilling.
Edit, I have not bothered with LEDs on the front panel of these amps, because there's enough blue light escaping up from the slats in the top panel, which make nice designs on the ceiling in the dark. But light pipes do seem like they may be cool.
I'd probably divide the front panel widthwise in thirds and drill the holes at 1/3 and 2/3. Probably about a third up from the bottom of the faceplate. You could experiment with little dots of colored tape to assess before drilling.
Edit, I have not bothered with LEDs on the front panel of these amps, because there's enough blue light escaping up from the slats in the top panel, which make nice designs on the ceiling in the dark. But light pipes do seem like they may be cool.
Nice choice for cyan! I'm sure a lot of people want to see these "light pipes" - they sound totally cool.
I typically drill dead center for 1 LED, but that's my personal preference. You can light it up like a Christmas tree or Rolls Royce starlight headliner if that's more to your taste.
If you want one light per channel, I like the 1/3 & 2/3 idea. Then consider whether that is from the outside edge of the front plate or 1/3 & 2/3 measured between the handles. decisions, decisions...
I typically drill dead center for 1 LED, but that's my personal preference. You can light it up like a Christmas tree or Rolls Royce starlight headliner if that's more to your taste.
If you want one light per channel, I like the 1/3 & 2/3 idea. Then consider whether that is from the outside edge of the front plate or 1/3 & 2/3 measured between the handles. decisions, decisions...
Hi @aljordan,
I don't know yet, but they are sleeved, so should transmit most of the light from the LED.
OK, thanks for your input - 4 does sound like it would be more of a light show than helpful indicators.
I like the 1/3, 2/3 spacing, but didn't think of going up 1/3 from the bottom. I'll do a mockup.
Thanks!
I don't know yet, but they are sleeved, so should transmit most of the light from the LED.
OK, thanks for your input - 4 does sound like it would be more of a light show than helpful indicators.
I like the 1/3, 2/3 spacing, but didn't think of going up 1/3 from the bottom. I'll do a mockup.
Thanks!
Hi Randy,
There is something about having both power supplies being represented that appeals to me, though I do also like the understated look of one central LED. Definitely not into the bedazzled look. 😊
Hmm. Good point. Hadn't mounted the handles so didn't consider the visual effect. OK, I'll be doing mockups with dots.
Consensus so far is not 4 - that's progress!
The light pipes are 3mm cross-section single fibers in a black sleeve. I used to have a length of 2mm multi-strand cable, but used it for building a light source for inspecting engines during building. I'll attach them to an LED on the PS board and support the optic cable with a tie around a capacitor, then machine a receptacle to hold and support it against the rear of the front panel.
There is something about having both power supplies being represented that appeals to me, though I do also like the understated look of one central LED. Definitely not into the bedazzled look. 😊
Hmm. Good point. Hadn't mounted the handles so didn't consider the visual effect. OK, I'll be doing mockups with dots.
Consensus so far is not 4 - that's progress!
The light pipes are 3mm cross-section single fibers in a black sleeve. I used to have a length of 2mm multi-strand cable, but used it for building a light source for inspecting engines during building. I'll attach them to an LED on the PS board and support the optic cable with a tie around a capacitor, then machine a receptacle to hold and support it against the rear of the front panel.
Transformers are mounted after pairing the primary and secondary wires in techflex and heat shrink.
This thing is gettin' heavy! I might make a strut brace for the top to keep it from bending as I do more assembly.
This thing is gettin' heavy! I might make a strut brace for the top to keep it from bending as I do more assembly.
How would using a 400va with 2x20VA secondaries for each Aleph 60 monoblock or would more power or higher rail voltage be better?
I can't quite tell which end will be the front and which will be the back. Since you're forced to have 4 MOSFETs on one half-heatsink and 2 MOSFETs on the other half, I'd orient the front panel to be on the side of the amp closest to the 4 MOSFET banks. This helps use the thick front panel as a heat spreader.
@wcwc -
400VA 2x20 is good for an Aleph 30+ Few watts over 30... How many, I haven't tested. But 2x20 won't get you an Aleph 60.
From the Aleph 60 build guide:
Per Monoblock: Recommend 300VA Transformer (example: Antek AS-3225) Note: 25+25 Antek resulted in 31.5V rails in recent build.
To get 34 or 35V rails a transformer >25+25V will be required.
If using 26, 27, 28V secondaries, increase PSU capacitors from 35V rating to 50V Rating
400VA 2x20 is good for an Aleph 30+ Few watts over 30... How many, I haven't tested. But 2x20 won't get you an Aleph 60.
From the Aleph 60 build guide:
Per Monoblock: Recommend 300VA Transformer (example: Antek AS-3225) Note: 25+25 Antek resulted in 31.5V rails in recent build.
To get 34 or 35V rails a transformer >25+25V will be required.
If using 26, 27, 28V secondaries, increase PSU capacitors from 35V rating to 50V Rating
Thank you,@ranshadow. Randy caught that and let me know last night. I had just looked at the 40W version with all 8 outputs installed, and in the back of my mind thought it would be odd to have 4 devices on one heat sink and 2 on another, but it didn't force its way through to actually moving one over. That's what I'll do today, so each heat sink on each channel will have devices. Also, the transformers are in front, the PS at the rear in my build. Thank you, both!
Also, as I've done with other amp projects, my plan is to attach the transformer shield wires to each respective PS filter board ground - does that sound right here?
I've always sent my transformer shield leads directly to the chassis ground. Never had any issues with hum.
Antek purple wire (shield ground) - just attach an "eye" connection to each and bolt to the swiss cheese chassis floor.
That is what I planned, with each bolt near the PS ground, rather than right at the transformer. Thanks!
Little time to work on the amp today, but got the outputs redistributed, transformer wires terminated and installed.
Almost there Greg. But you need "3 up, 3 down". Now I see "2 up, 4 down". Move Q13 up to 9 and you're good to go.
Purple wire location is perfect.
Purple wire location is perfect.
Oh jeez. 😳
(Self: "Dork")
Knew I shouldn't have tried to fit this in today - not focused enough!
Thank you, Randy.
(Self: "Dork")
Knew I shouldn't have tried to fit this in today - not focused enough!
Thank you, Randy.
