Thank youIt's all very tight, but I think it will work out fine. Just need to find a way to create the connection plate. More pics later.
That really is a cool little case. Do you know who made it?
Yes, I found the source of the embedded PC's in Taiwan - when I contacted them they said they can't help me with the creator of the case - they don't sell them independently.
Closest thing to this I found was an American case designer, but they charge over 500$!
Unfortunately this design won't live for a long time. After 30 mins of normal volume playback, the heatsinks get pretty warm - this is no problem, but I can't seem to keep my fingers on the T-sinks and I don't think that is normal. I'll recheck if there is no air gap and will apply a good thermal paste and try again. I really need a thermometer for this, and know about the highest temperature this is supposed to reach.
Closest thing to this I found was an American case designer, but they charge over 500$!
Unfortunately this design won't live for a long time. After 30 mins of normal volume playback, the heatsinks get pretty warm - this is no problem, but I can't seem to keep my fingers on the T-sinks and I don't think that is normal. I'll recheck if there is no air gap and will apply a good thermal paste and try again. I really need a thermometer for this, and know about the highest temperature this is supposed to reach.
The T-sinks on my UCD400 also get pretty hot, one more than the other.
But both amps have been playing perfectly for over 6 months now.
There is a long way from what is uncomfortable to touch, and to what is directly harmfull to the transistors. Hypex use very good transistors, they can take the heat.
Thermal paste will help, no doubt.
But both amps have been playing perfectly for over 6 months now.
There is a long way from what is uncomfortable to touch, and to what is directly harmfull to the transistors. Hypex use very good transistors, they can take the heat.
Thermal paste will help, no doubt.
Looks like Radioshack knobs (nothing wrong with that at all) but are those Radioshack pots behind them?
This must be who you are referring too......
http://atechfabrication.com/index.htm
Nice stuff, but really expensive.
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Yes, that's the one. Extremely expensive. They do custom bottom & rear panel drilling for a cool $50 extra...
I got rid of the gaps and it's somewhat better - however, after 1 to 2h of playback, it's challenging to keep my hand on the external part of the casing, it's close to burning sensation. Surely that is too hot. I will now try with thermal paste, and if that fails, I'm going to rebuild into a (relatively) massive case. I want to go 5 channel at some point anyway
Mac, that is a beautiful amp. What kind of toroidal and rectifiers did you use?
Reason I ask is because I am building an amp with a target of 27 VDC and the toroidal secondary is 25 VAC--I know there is a voltage drop at the rectifier and a gain with the filtering caps, so I don't want to stray too much. Very well done BTW.
Looks like a Par-Metal chassis. Not the best quality in the world, but it's one of our few "local" options.
They have EXACTLY what I have been looking for to build my HTPC computer project in. Thanks.
I was pleased with the chassis. Unless you want a show piece, which I admit, sometimes I do, then this is more than adequate. Inexpensive compared to some alternatives, easy to work on, fits together nicely, looks good, the company was easy to deal with and shipped quickly. This suited my needs perfectly and had vents already cut.
WOW are they expensive.
12x12x3 is $75 with vent holes. Thanks for the info. Carry on. [/hijack]
WOW are they expensive.
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I bought the 20-12123N (12x12x3) with clear alodine finish for $43. With shipping from CA to VT it was $52 and change. The finish isn't as nice as anodized but perfectly acceptable.