Yes, the front-to-back brace is called the driver brace... it should be snug against the driver magnet, but not so much as to put strain on the driver basket. This distributes driver energy to the other panels to share the energy and reduce the chances of exciting a panel resonance.
dave
dave
Thanks Dave. I will use MDH on the internal braces. I will glue in the screws as I go per your advice. There will be no shortage on overkill as this goes along.
I have already encountered problem #1. My wife saw Ed's speakers over at :http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/153199-enclosure-stuffing.html
Swoon.....Drool.....Shameless Pander
Maybe tomorrow I will have the wood. Fun begins.
I have already encountered problem #1. My wife saw Ed's speakers over at :http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/153199-enclosure-stuffing.html
Swoon.....Drool.....Shameless Pander
Maybe tomorrow I will have the wood. Fun begins.
I will use MDF on the internal braces. I will glue in the screws as I go per your advice. There will be no shortage on overkill as this goes along.
If you are going into overkill mode you won't use MDF for anything. It is certainly not stiff enuff to make a really good holey brace.
dave
Thank you Dave. I cut some today and was not impressed. I have some 1" poplar that shoud do nicely. The MDF should make nice birdhouses.
So far I figured 56 board feet of kiln dried cherry plus 1 4x8 MDF should build the box
tomorrow it's off to the buddy's house to square the boards up for glueing into panels.
I will use a buiscuit joiner and titebond and pipe clamps for this job. When it is done it's back to the woodworking shop to plane the panels.
So far I figured 56 board feet of kiln dried cherry plus 1 4x8 MDF should build the box
tomorrow it's off to the buddy's house to square the boards up for glueing into panels.
I will use a buiscuit joiner and titebond and pipe clamps for this job. When it is done it's back to the woodworking shop to plane the panels.
2sooners
In your Short Thor Plans.pdf you show a crossover which I've not previously seen for the Thors. Where did it come from?
And thanks for the pdf-plans.
In your Short Thor Plans.pdf you show a crossover which I've not previously seen for the Thors. Where did it come from?
And thanks for the pdf-plans.
I've not till now assembled all the revisted Thors in a single pdf... thanx ichiban for the poke... if someone can point me at the latest revision of the optional XO i will update that.
http://p10hifi.net/planet10/TLS/downloads/Revisiting-Thor.pdf
I see some other details fixes are needed.
dave
http://p10hifi.net/planet10/TLS/downloads/Revisiting-Thor.pdf
I see some other details fixes are needed.
dave
So that xvr in the Short Thor Plans.pdf is incorrect?
I was under the impression that the .pdf 2sooner posted
was his.
I was under the impression that the .pdf 2sooner posted
was his.
I didn't look at 2sooner's XO in any detail.
sooner's XO looks closer in topology to the original than the optional.
dave
sooner's XO looks closer in topology to the original than the optional.
dave
Looks like this is Jim's revised XO.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/142615-short-thor-build.html#post1808247
dave
Again, I accept no credit other than gathering info. The XO is the latest from the HT forum. The are some measurements I do not like on the cut out sheet. The length dimension on pdf p2 is incorrect. Adam at Madisound had to do some mild substitution
to supply the XO.
FYI Dave, Every peice of wooden furniture I own is from solid hand made cherry. I use standard biscuit joinery and wood glue with clamps. The stuff is like cast iorn. Truly I had some concern about using planking but (true to overkill) # 20 biscuits at 8" centers and this stuff will outlast many sets of drivers. At least more than I will ever see.
The wood went thru the planer jointer today and the table saw ate away the lumber.
FWIW the bid of 56 board feet of 8 foot cherry planking was about 1 foot of waste.
As i oversaw the truck loading it could have gone 10 feet the other way. I laid out the panels to group them. I will up some photos when I get some on clamps.
At this point I very much do need some input on a nice base or feet. Smooth simple lines are a must says my lovely and gracious wife.
Most importantly big thanks and gratitude for you guys weighing in. Feel free to correct the .pdf. The next guy will surely use it. Really it could become an important DIY tool.
There is alot of refinement on this speaker and anyone looking for a diy in this price range could do much worse imho.
Probably not much for a couple of days. Life calls.
to supply the XO.
FYI Dave, Every peice of wooden furniture I own is from solid hand made cherry. I use standard biscuit joinery and wood glue with clamps. The stuff is like cast iorn. Truly I had some concern about using planking but (true to overkill) # 20 biscuits at 8" centers and this stuff will outlast many sets of drivers. At least more than I will ever see.
The wood went thru the planer jointer today and the table saw ate away the lumber.
FWIW the bid of 56 board feet of 8 foot cherry planking was about 1 foot of waste.
As i oversaw the truck loading it could have gone 10 feet the other way. I laid out the panels to group them. I will up some photos when I get some on clamps.
At this point I very much do need some input on a nice base or feet. Smooth simple lines are a must says my lovely and gracious wife.
Most importantly big thanks and gratitude for you guys weighing in. Feel free to correct the .pdf. The next guy will surely use it. Really it could become an important DIY tool.
There is alot of refinement on this speaker and anyone looking for a diy in this price range could do much worse imho.
Probably not much for a couple of days. Life calls.
So here is the question for the evening. I set these lovely cherry panels together to get an idea of what I was creating (huge) and closed one end and thumped around on the inside and "ring". I don't think this is good. At this point alot can change that will help this however some F.B. on any interior coatings would be appreciated. Thanks to all.
Short Thor line length?
How much shorter is the line length? Or isn't it shorter? Only the height of the drivers from the base perhaps?
I'm a newbie on TL's and read Joe D's AE Article on his TL Thor. His line length calculation is rather straightforward for a 1/4 wavelength line and the speed of sound at 1130 fps.
I"ve also read Sharp's TL pamphlet. Sharp line length calculation is modified by a slowing down of the sound wave calculation that shortens the line considerably. A design I'm working on has a line length of approx. 70 inches using Joe D'd methodology. With sharp's method, the line length shortens to 25 inches!, resulting in a considerable savings in materials.
Is sharp all wrong in his approach to line length calculations?
p.s. I've also used Smith's TL spreadsheet calculator and got 70 inches as well, which suggests Smith and Joe D don't agree with Sharp.
What say you guys?
How much shorter is the line length? Or isn't it shorter? Only the height of the drivers from the base perhaps?
I'm a newbie on TL's and read Joe D's AE Article on his TL Thor. His line length calculation is rather straightforward for a 1/4 wavelength line and the speed of sound at 1130 fps.
I"ve also read Sharp's TL pamphlet. Sharp line length calculation is modified by a slowing down of the sound wave calculation that shortens the line considerably. A design I'm working on has a line length of approx. 70 inches using Joe D'd methodology. With sharp's method, the line length shortens to 25 inches!, resulting in a considerable savings in materials.
Is sharp all wrong in his approach to line length calculations?
p.s. I've also used Smith's TL spreadsheet calculator and got 70 inches as well, which suggests Smith and Joe D don't agree with Sharp.
What say you guys?
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- Clarity on Seas Thor Kit