Karl - thanks
Using the standard Thor crossovers for the moment. Not averse to trying the new one though. But I think I will leave that for the new year.
The other option I have is to go for active crossovers. Got parts lying around here for 8 "leachmussen" amps.
Was there more / less mid with the new xover?
Using the standard Thor crossovers for the moment. Not averse to trying the new one though. But I think I will leave that for the new year.
The other option I have is to go for active crossovers. Got parts lying around here for 8 "leachmussen" amps.
Was there more / less mid with the new xover?
FWIW, the dip at ~145Hz in the rough measurements made above is most likely floor-bounce (it's in the right place).
Glad you like them guys. 16Hz is a trifle ambitious, but strong to the mid 30Hz regions was the object for this cabinet, so it's good to get further confirmation that they're performing as they should.
Glad you like them guys. 16Hz is a trifle ambitious, but strong to the mid 30Hz regions was the object for this cabinet, so it's good to get further confirmation that they're performing as they should.
No it's not - my (Original Plans) Thors got a bunch of huge bubbles on them. I used 'self stick' and actually wore out a roller pressing it flat. I tried an iron, and some weights, no dice.
On the subwoofer I built, I found the right technique. FINISH the speakers with bubbles on them. I mean, varnish, whatever; I used Danish Oil.
Then, once you can't worry about glue getting on it, you slice the bubbles with a razor blade. Depending on the size of the bubble, you might have to sand the sides a little. Then I squirted some wood glue (yellow) under the bubble and pressed the bubble flat. If the razor (x-acto) is good and sharp, you won't even be able to tell where the bubble was. I then clamped it with a flat board and some bar clamps.
The clue for me was the finishing - with a 'hard' surface, the glue that squirts out of the bubble won't clog the pores and spoil the finish, because it's already finished. The danish oil didn't seem to make it too inflexible; the bubbles pressed flat anyway.
This worked perfectly on my subwoofer. Once I get new cabinets made, I plan on testing this with my existing speakers. I'm going to build a set of rear speakers with the new 'small Thor' cabinets, once my knee heals (MCL tear).
jgwinner said:
John – wooow that sounds a lot of work and heartache; I’ve never really liked iron on veneer and never had success with it the few times I’ve tried. “Real” veneer seems very tricky also to me and especially when covering large projects. A while ago I found (like a lot of others) paper backed veneer – Valhalla – huge 2.44 x 1.22 m (I’m in Australia) sheets; lovely and flat bonded to a strong paper backing.
A lot of people use normal yellow wood glue but I’ve gone the recommended but more scary contact adhesive route. Small panels are fine with care but I did a side-front-side one-piece wrap on my Small Thors. There was no way I could do this on my own. So a mate helped, we did a number of “dry-runs” to make sure we new exactly what to do and how to locate the large sheet and avoid it “grabbing” before we were ready. Success – not one bubble – see http://www.greenie512.net/greenie512/html/finished_thors.html
Cheers - Phil
Attachments
