Happy to do so, which I indicated many posts ago, send me a PM with your details please.
Supplied as a kit you will need a 12v AC power supply, a soldering iron, small dimension wire, RCA sockets and about 3- 4 hours to assemble in casework. If you require a casework version, I have a Hammond case in stock the same as seen in the attached image, but needing assembly.
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Oh yes this was "solid gold" from Chris, when he was a Tasmanian, not a NZ expat. He got a new one ripped for this little venture here by the crew who knew what this BS was about. As he sold them on ebay already soldered with smd transistors to opamps of your choice.
Cheers George
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Receiving much praise for their sound quality as well. I recall an email from a person in Italy advising it was much better than a far costlier AD797
Perhaps some of you have forgotten that there are rules on this website and the very first one says ....
NOT ALLOWED:
Disruptive behavior of any sort, including offensive language, trolling, threadjacking, insults, intimidation, harassment or other disrespectful or antisocial behavior. (Notes 1 & 3)
Just because you have been members here for years and have contributed well over the interum, the first rule still applies to all of us, regardless of the moderator's acceptance.
NOT ALLOWED:
Disruptive behavior of any sort, including offensive language, trolling, threadjacking, insults, intimidation, harassment or other disrespectful or antisocial behavior. (Notes 1 & 3)
Just because you have been members here for years and have contributed well over the interum, the first rule still applies to all of us, regardless of the moderator's acceptance.
I think you need to add to that James
3: Intentionally posting incorrect information
5: Starting multiple threads on the same subject.
6: using BOT talk to explain ee theory.
8: advertising in non-commercial forums.
9: Posts containing material covered by copyright or NDA without permission of the copyright holder.
Cheers George
Agreed, andrewGM can be abrasive, and he doesn't suffer fools, but we are not here to promote voodoo or snake oil.
If it were left unattended or un-policed by those that know and care the likes of Nelson Pass John Curl ect ect ect would leave very quickly.
And if something or someone gets a hiding for it, so be it. As we want diy here that works without voodoo or snake oil involved, and gives full exposure, all the circuit diagrams for the claims made, and that has no ulterior motive attached to it for commercial gain. There's a place for that called "The Vendors Forum"
Just look at Audiogon massive threads, on the merits of the direction of an ac fuse is installed ect ect pure snake oil and voodoo!!!!!!!! or the incredible sound difference of $250 ac mains fuses!!!!!! Can you see the likes of the Nelson Pass's and John Curl's ect ect attending these?????
Cheers George
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Originally Posted by Burnedfingers View Post
I figured out why the LED volume control seems to be better. I went to the garage yesterday and unhooked my Aikido line stage and hooked the CD player direct to my pair of Allen model 75 tube amps and connected up my little Altec model 9's. The result was amazing. The bass was so much better at lower volume. The Allen Bradley gain control pot in each amp was my only method of changing the volume level. The magic was once restored to my system.
Well, there you go. Now wasn't that easy.
You missed the point.....its called sarcasm.
Originally Posted by Burnedfingers View Post
I figured out why the LED volume control seems to be better. I went to the garage yesterday and unhooked my Aikido line stage and hooked the CD player direct to my pair of Allen model 75 tube amps and connected up my little Altec model 9's. The result was amazing. The bass was so much better at lower volume. The Allen Bradley gain control pot in each amp was my only method of changing the volume level. The magic was once restored to my system.
Well, there you go. Now wasn't that easy.
You missed the point.....its called sarcasm.
Lets call this optocoupler what it is. Its not a preamp its a simple voltage divider dependant upon a encapsulated LED. There is no amplification and no buffer so its not a preamp.
jameshillj,stvnharr,wineds
If you gentlemen have a problem other than me telling the truth then go flag a moderator. Other than a little sarcasm I don't feel I've violated any rules.
If you gentlemen have a problem other than me telling the truth then go flag a moderator. Other than a little sarcasm I don't feel I've violated any rules.
Thank you for reminding why I decided to build the StereCoffee when you claimed that Chris was some how involved in the manufacture of the JAVA preamp.
Can you explain why he would hand build a $250 kit when he could make a minimum of $3000 per unit.
It was because of these reviews that made me realise I couldn't afford the JAVA. These reviews also helped my find the SC boards for $150 on Ebay.
Are you going to tell everyone that your criticism is correct and the reviews are wrong?
If you think the reviewers are wrong then you should publish your own data that proves the StereoCoffee is an inferior product.
Since this review, Chris has made 8 to 10 major upgrades to the boards in kit.
Please just Google - JAVA LDR Preamplifier to find reviews.
Mono and Stereo High-End Audio Magazine: Java LDR light dependent resistor preamplifier
These are the last 3 unedited paragraphs of one review:
" Developed exclusively for the JAVA by Chris Daly, the unique JAVA circuit and LDR control board are significant developments of those found in Daly’s original Stereo Coffee kit, which has gained a cult following in DIY circles.
Taking its cues from the mid-century design movement and inspiration from hi-fi’s golden age in the 1950's – 1960's, the JAVA is a piece of audio furniture to covet — one that would sit comfortably in the pages of the finest home interior magazines. Featuring a mixture of premium materials and with an organic, almost sculptural aesthetic, the JAVA is an object that begs to be touched — and has to be heard to be believed.
The JAVA sounds utterly transparent, revealing subtle new details in familiar pieces of music. Voices and instruments are presented with startling realism, displaying the rich, complex tonality of a fine valve amp. At the same time, the JAVA delivers deep, controlled bass and visceral, wide-band dynamics that rival the very best solid state designs. Music through the JAVA is not forced. It flows effortlessly across a broad and deep soundstage, immersing the listener in the music and taking them closer to the original performance."
Congratulations on your sarcasm joke.
If you study this official Silonex application sheet you will learn how LDR's can be employed in audio applications. Maybe you know more about the subject than the manufacturer. If you do, please share it with the forum because that is what this forum is about.
See the Silonex audio attenuation worksheet:
https://www.cresttech.com.au/pdf/Silonex/levelcontrol.pdf
Any person with even a hint of knowledge can understand that any buffer stage or honest to goodness line stage or pre amp will have its own sonic signature.
The optocoupler device is a very simple voltage divider with NO connection with its LED source. Since it has no amplification its going to sound a bit different but no different than a resistive pot if the pots wiper is maintaining proper contact with the resistance ring. The positive it has going for it is it never needs to have a wiper and internals cleaned. The down side is its life which has been posted on the internet and yes its dependent on the current being fed to the LED's. The other down side is its ability not to track perfectly and I can throw in differences caused by temperature and such.
What I mentioned above are truths. Since I am an avid DIYER I want truth exposed not BS and snake oil theories.
Lets touch on those PASS TRANSISTORS now? DO I assume the current coffee device has the same type of questionable usage of parts?
The optocoupler device is a very simple voltage divider with NO connection with its LED source. Since it has no amplification its going to sound a bit different but no different than a resistive pot if the pots wiper is maintaining proper contact with the resistance ring. The positive it has going for it is it never needs to have a wiper and internals cleaned. The down side is its life which has been posted on the internet and yes its dependent on the current being fed to the LED's. The other down side is its ability not to track perfectly and I can throw in differences caused by temperature and such.
What I mentioned above are truths. Since I am an avid DIYER I want truth exposed not BS and snake oil theories.
Lets touch on those PASS TRANSISTORS now? DO I assume the current coffee device has the same type of questionable usage of parts?
Friend,
Altec LAnsing and EV incorporated optocouplers in several of their mixer designs that go back to the late 80's. So, yes since I have repaired a lot of those units in years past you can take it that I understand the concept and operation.
AS I have pointed out time after time the optocoupler is nothing more than a resistive element that changes value when the LED's intensity changes. Put two of them together and you make a voltage divider. Wire the LED's so that one increases as the other decreases and you have the operation just like a pot/volume control.
Distortion
Well said sir,
I have been reading through this thread, and said to myself " I'll wait till I get to the end and if nobody has said this or that (what you have put on screen) I will definitely post something."
I will say the following however:
I do not have an LDR attenuator, but I do have a Bedini 25.25 (being repaired) driving a pair of stacked Quad ESLs via an AudiLab 8200 CDQ. The quality of the sound is bar none IMO. I have heard many systems, from small NAD based to megabuck ones. I still prefer mine because that is how I like my sound, warts and all. I do not have a small fortune to buy kit to audition and sell willy nilly, nor do I wish to do such stuff. I do however collect LPs, CDs, SACDs and best of all a variety of turntables and arms - Sota/RB300/Sumiko, CJ Walker/Grace/Grace, TD124/Jelco/Ortofon etc, and CD & SACD players. Each has its own unique sound and I enjoy all of them. I'd love to try out an LDR in my system and will probably have to hang on till I get around to a bit of extra cash (and time) before trying one.
My knowledge of electronics is not good at all, so I can understand the technical boffs wanting schematics etc to evaluate Chris' circuit and question him - By not answering he is playing into their hands. TechnoBoffs - I have on many occasions come across bullying on this forum. That is definitely not on - yes what someone is posting might be nonsensical, but quite possibly they are bad at expressing themselves. I know I am and therefore do not try to engage with you blokes - for saying something incorrect I have no doubt that I will be taken out ASAP. I'm trying to learn- but It's not easy.
Kevin
P.S. I have tinnitus, and have definite degeneration of hearing above 13kHz, but those distorting strings of violins, guitars, pianos et al still sound beautiful, as do the the harsh reeds in saxophones. Music is distortion, tuning forks of one frequency have almost none.
Well said sir,
I have been reading through this thread, and said to myself " I'll wait till I get to the end and if nobody has said this or that (what you have put on screen) I will definitely post something."
I will say the following however:
I do not have an LDR attenuator, but I do have a Bedini 25.25 (being repaired) driving a pair of stacked Quad ESLs via an AudiLab 8200 CDQ. The quality of the sound is bar none IMO. I have heard many systems, from small NAD based to megabuck ones. I still prefer mine because that is how I like my sound, warts and all. I do not have a small fortune to buy kit to audition and sell willy nilly, nor do I wish to do such stuff. I do however collect LPs, CDs, SACDs and best of all a variety of turntables and arms - Sota/RB300/Sumiko, CJ Walker/Grace/Grace, TD124/Jelco/Ortofon etc, and CD & SACD players. Each has its own unique sound and I enjoy all of them. I'd love to try out an LDR in my system and will probably have to hang on till I get around to a bit of extra cash (and time) before trying one.
My knowledge of electronics is not good at all, so I can understand the technical boffs wanting schematics etc to evaluate Chris' circuit and question him - By not answering he is playing into their hands. TechnoBoffs - I have on many occasions come across bullying on this forum. That is definitely not on - yes what someone is posting might be nonsensical, but quite possibly they are bad at expressing themselves. I know I am and therefore do not try to engage with you blokes - for saying something incorrect I have no doubt that I will be taken out ASAP. I'm trying to learn- but It's not easy.
Kevin
P.S. I have tinnitus, and have definite degeneration of hearing above 13kHz, but those distorting strings of violins, guitars, pianos et al still sound beautiful, as do the the harsh reeds in saxophones. Music is distortion, tuning forks of one frequency have almost none.
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