Bluto said:
the schematic, i use standar schmatic from LM3886 datasheet (+ input caps).
for PCB layout, i made by myself.
A Sanchez: very cool indeed. 
" ... Looks more like very hot, a heatsink faux pas. ..."
Yes, and not well vented, either ... But, that's what DIY is all about: try, test, try again ... It is still a good, "cool" concept IMOP ...
" ... Looks more like very hot, a heatsink faux pas. ..."
Yes, and not well vented, either ... But, that's what DIY is all about: try, test, try again ... It is still a good, "cool" concept IMOP ...
Hi,
The photos were taken before I made a few dozen perforations on the top, sides nd back of the acrylic cover. The other day I had the amp on for few hours and while one of the heathsinks got a bit hot, both chips were just warm but not hot at all.
Antonio
The photos were taken before I made a few dozen perforations on the top, sides nd back of the acrylic cover. The other day I had the amp on for few hours and while one of the heathsinks got a bit hot, both chips were just warm but not hot at all.
Antonio
Nice box, but the heatsink is on the small side.
Which will shorten the life of the amp, which will up and leave, with your speakers, as you have no protection, sooner rather than later. I think you can pick up a more suitable sink for between 10 and 20 dollars...
And For Sanchez's amp, you should add a fan underneath the grill to help distribute the smoke when it starts burning...
Which will shorten the life of the amp, which will up and leave, with your speakers, as you have no protection, sooner rather than later. I think you can pick up a more suitable sink for between 10 and 20 dollars...
And For Sanchez's amp, you should add a fan underneath the grill to help distribute the smoke when it starts burning...
this image is a nice twist
it makes you see all what is inside
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1569138&stamp=1216936814
Great. Sanchez 😎
it makes you see all what is inside
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1569138&stamp=1216936814
Great. Sanchez 😎
I see no fuse, but oterwise 100%, new guys can learn from this...
extended potshafts, shortened trafo wires, shielded zone.
extended potshafts, shortened trafo wires, shielded zone.
thanks, but I can't take any credit for the design, I just put it together. It is a Peter Daniel Kit.
Yup, that was obvious from the copper heat spreader.... a P.D. staple...
...P.S. are we missing a nut on the face?
...P.S. are we missing a nut on the face?
Yes, I bought the kit from a friend, which he purchased 4 years ago. In the mean time, some parts were lost including some screws and the wood side panels.
Its such a wonderfull case, shame its holding a chipamp right now.
Oh well, the road is long and winding.
In the mean time, why not check with Peter about a replacement nut for the face...
The side panels are no big loss... more space to add heatsinking in the future...
Man that is a load of metal....
Oh well, the road is long and winding.
In the mean time, why not check with Peter about a replacement nut for the face...
The side panels are no big loss... more space to add heatsinking in the future...
Man that is a load of metal....
Nordic said:
Thanks for the advise Nordic. Should I use a regulated supply for the fan? 😀
No seriously, as I mentioned I have made many holes on the acrylic cover and there is a now lots of room for the air to go through in and out form top, bottom, back and sides. I have to say that I have seen many chipamps in metal enclosures that seem to have much less holes or grill areas for air circulation.
Do you still think that using acrylic is too dangerous? Many people use wood, which would inginite as fast as the acrylic cover and I do not see .
Or is it that the heatsinks are too small?
I wanted to have fun making a transparent box so that friends can see how a very simple device could sound better than many of the expensive commercial stuff that they like buying. Howeve,r I am not intersted in running unnecessary risks.
Thanks
Antonio