Merci,
front al. plate is 4mm and rear is only 2mm, it will be replaced by a thicker one asap. Wood is from solid oak, and overall dimension are 19,6 (W)x 21 (L)x 10 (H).
front al. plate is 4mm and rear is only 2mm, it will be replaced by a thicker one asap. Wood is from solid oak, and overall dimension are 19,6 (W)x 21 (L)x 10 (H).
you could use some shielded wire for the connection from the pot to the amp and attach it to the wooden sides using some tape.The unshielded cable is most probably picking up hum from the trafo..the case is nice though very clean..
or move the pot to mount on the rear plate and use a shaft extender to connect the control knob to the remote pot.
androuski said:
Hi,
MONITOR AUDIO GR10's
Specifications:
Drivers: One 1" Dome Tweeter, One 6 1/2" Mid-Bass Driver
MFR: 40 Hz - 30 kHz ± 3 dB
Nominal Impedance: 8 Ohms
Efficiency: 88 dB/W/M
Power Handling: 100 Watts RMS, 300 Watts Peak
Size: 14 3/4" H x 8 3/4" W x 11 1/2" D
Weight: 20 Pounds Each
Attachments
audio1st said:
Hi Barry
How has the sound improved when compared to your previous supply?
Ive yet to hook-up my discretes 😉
Richard
Rainwulf said:
The pictures show an early stage, earthing has been added since. WRT the thickness of the PSU links, please enlighten me, how much resistance would I lose if I were to use the thicker wire for the PSU links? I have a gut feeling that the loss in resistance is negligible, the links being so short in lenght. Would I be able to measure that difference with a DMM?
Tripmaster said:
Hi Richard,
The difference that I have noticed is improved bass.
It's not lower (12ft x 12ft room), you just know it's there, not bloated either, controlled.
The mid's are as smooth as ever and the treble is bright, without distress.
I wasn't after mega bass and high volume, mainly late night listening.
Feeding the amp with 25vDC (same as previous), still no Ci (feedback cap), DC offset of 5mV each channel. Using with Active pre-amp.
Runs warmer than I remember, may just be the regulator sharing the heat-sink (case).
The relays on the speaker's output, are on a simple time delay (from Nick's website). This may be replaced with a speaker protection circuit. The LM1875, I have found, suffers from power on/off pops and clicks, the delay speaker turn on and instant turn off cures this.
Barry.
my ref revC- my build
Finished up my chipamp a few days ago.
Many thanks to Mauro Penasa for a great design, and to Uriah and Peter who organized the recent group buy. Also to all the folks who contribute to the posts here- lots to learn.
It sounds excelllent and went together without any problems.
Case/chassis/transformer/heatsink is a recycled thrift store Sansui receiver.
Garry oak with tung oil finish.
It'll take a few messages to attach the pics, since the forum doesn't allow multiple attachments.
Cheers
John
Finished up my chipamp a few days ago.
Many thanks to Mauro Penasa for a great design, and to Uriah and Peter who organized the recent group buy. Also to all the folks who contribute to the posts here- lots to learn.
It sounds excelllent and went together without any problems.
Case/chassis/transformer/heatsink is a recycled thrift store Sansui receiver.
Garry oak with tung oil finish.
It'll take a few messages to attach the pics, since the forum doesn't allow multiple attachments.
Cheers
John
