No I haven't checked datasheet ldo, just took the one from BOM gmarsh Wiener (but 12V version). I put a 10uH inductor directly next to it on output, that might not be ok for that regulator. Location under electrolytic might not be ok if it does get hot 🙂 But plenty room to move.
Don't worry with the 10 mA most opamps use. Maybe some more copper to spread the possible heat.
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Well, the most benefit from a cap multiplier can be get with the crappiest power supply you can find. Beside this, they use it as "ripple eater" or tracking regulator.
If you supply is fine, no need for the cap multiplier.
Beside this i haven't seen much use cases with cap multipliers in high power applications.
Input 4 pin Molex/JST connector and socket and I think around 30cm wires I got are around 50 $cents, 2mm spacing is a bit special maybe, I haven't checked if Phoenix makes screwterminals for that. For power and output 6.3mm TE/Molex flat tabs and crimp connectors are included in price, and very cheap, unisolated so using some heatshrink tube might be good idea. Screwterminal Phoenix on output not this time, changes entire layout I think.
For small openloop digtal input classD the cap multiplier might be good idea, I doubt advantage here. Groupbuy boards sound very good, ask anyone. I don't think anyone with groupbuy boards tried Volt+, that might need other parts like chinees ampboards. Output inductors if real are good for BTL or higher than my impedance load PBTL, Ice Component inductor chosen has 10% Ldrop at 11A, 9mohm DCR, raised parallel to board coil, Wurth spec 6.6A, 22mohm, standing coil.
For small openloop digtal input classD the cap multiplier might be good idea, I doubt advantage here. Groupbuy boards sound very good, ask anyone. I don't think anyone with groupbuy boards tried Volt+, that might need other parts like chinees ampboards. Output inductors if real are good for BTL or higher than my impedance load PBTL, Ice Component inductor chosen has 10% Ldrop at 11A, 9mohm DCR, raised parallel to board coil, Wurth spec 6.6A, 22mohm, standing coil.
Assumptions ... prejudice.....
Even class A amplifiers sometimes use cap multipliers (they tend to have high ripple too for obvious reasons). It depends what you call high power applications. They can clear up sound a bit. Anyway anyone with a Volt+ knows it sounds good with the cap multiplier. TPA amplifiers also don't need some other things which are employed in many cases. Still "everyone does it"... They could benefit from adding some things but "no one else does it".... Most have one thing in common: how can they be produced as cheap as possible 🙂
I would not know what that would mean. We are not women buying stuff the others have are we ?
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Yeah, and i know enough amp which sound good without a cap multiplier because they don't need em.
I don't get the point why you're always against things shown here. irribeo showed a board for his needs and the first thing you do is complaining about things you want but haven't been implemented.
What about K.I.S.S.?
I don't get the point why you're always against things shown here. irribeo showed a board for his needs and the first thing you do is complaining about things you want but haven't been implemented.
What about K.I.S.S.?
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Good reasoning ! First claim they don't need them and don't try out. Then say they don't need them again. Full circle 😀
* It would be interesting to hear comments from a group buy board owner that also has the Volt+. I have TPA Sanwu boards AND Volt+ but not yet compared them AB. I like the Volt+ a lot though. I don't care what the reason is but it is the only board I have with cap multiplier and it sounds great. It has volume control, it has a cap multiplier, it is a stereo board and wiring it up is easy. K.I.S.S. in it finest form.
I see doctormord edited his post: no problem, I am not "always against anything". If one designs a new PCB then make it really complete and add things it needs and make it of good practical use. Seriously, glueing a screw to a cap ?! I don't want anything from irribeo as I won't buy a board anyway. My philosophy is just different.
* It would be interesting to hear comments from a group buy board owner that also has the Volt+. I have TPA Sanwu boards AND Volt+ but not yet compared them AB. I like the Volt+ a lot though. I don't care what the reason is but it is the only board I have with cap multiplier and it sounds great. It has volume control, it has a cap multiplier, it is a stereo board and wiring it up is easy. K.I.S.S. in it finest form.
I see doctormord edited his post: no problem, I am not "always against anything". If one designs a new PCB then make it really complete and add things it needs and make it of good practical use. Seriously, glueing a screw to a cap ?! I don't want anything from irribeo as I won't buy a board anyway. My philosophy is just different.
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I mean Panasonics that ain't Panasonic, Lelon that ain't Lelon, how about any other parts, filmcaps used on YJ blueblack as bootstrap caps in same layout don't exactly bring good memories and these "Indian" look identical. The groupbuy boards have parts from where you buy them, or Digikey/Mouser ready made.
@ irribeo, I think you forgot a sentence as your comment about fake caps comes out of the blue. Anyway, you compare Volt+ that has fake Panasonic caps (changed those on my amp) and groupbuy boards and Sanwu ?! Do you think Sanwu has original parts ? You guys mention even fake boards and fake chips 🙂
It is quite difficult to make a point in a triple comparison.
It is quite difficult to make a point in a triple comparison.
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I don't buy Volt+ because I directly see 3 electrolytics that I would replace and make me doubt the other parts. Allo replaced the two fake Panasonics for better looking ones, they might have replaced the fake Lelon's too. Out of the blue for other parts, yes.
Sanwu ? All original parts ? For 6.99 $ ? You replace the ceramic and electrolytic caps on those too don't you ? What are we debating ?
Good night !
Good night !
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Not likely, Sanwu uses two different kind of fake Sanyo's on other ampboards, $2.5 ex shipping versus $39 ex shipping for Volt+, around 60 euro shipped I believe?
Sanwu can push out more current than groupbuy boards can, I assume Volt+ is worse than groupbuy boards, not only because BTL.
When most single ended boards have a cap to ground on negative input, tpachip is not given equal impedance on both positive and negative inputs, my try is supposed to do that, even when post filterfeedback parts are not placed on pcb because not working properly. There should be phase advantage on any level, some bass advantage but maybe only for higher levels, distortion advantage too. All even without post filter feedback.
Sanwu can push out more current than groupbuy boards can, I assume Volt+ is worse than groupbuy boards, not only because BTL.
When most single ended boards have a cap to ground on negative input, tpachip is not given equal impedance on both positive and negative inputs, my try is supposed to do that, even when post filterfeedback parts are not placed on pcb because not working properly. There should be phase advantage on any level, some bass advantage but maybe only for higher levels, distortion advantage too. All even without post filter feedback.
relative to the generic copy of sanwu copy (now $2.99 free ship) , i'm still working on my own sch and brd files. has a valve preamp.
had to go back to basics as was thinking needed film pp mkp coupling caps.
my eagle component library highly modified now for smt with through combo pads.
from my own tests on capacitors, sticking with muse bipolars on line level low-z 5/10k z couplings.
input cap choice is much more complicated.
so will include thru-hole box film but include also footprint for C0G.
of course need low leakage on the valve input coupler.
on ps bypass again combo footprints. also very more complicated. see LTI AN-13 pg 25-26. this may be a big factor in the generic's super performance.
on resistors another complex issue. (search for resistor distortion on diyaudo )
on the tpa311x output filter, no longer 100% sure film is required.
maybe the generic has C0G equavillants. dont know.
had to go back to basics as was thinking needed film pp mkp coupling caps.
my eagle component library highly modified now for smt with through combo pads.
from my own tests on capacitors, sticking with muse bipolars on line level low-z 5/10k z couplings.
input cap choice is much more complicated.
so will include thru-hole box film but include also footprint for C0G.
of course need low leakage on the valve input coupler.
on ps bypass again combo footprints. also very more complicated. see LTI AN-13 pg 25-26. this may be a big factor in the generic's super performance.
on resistors another complex issue. (search for resistor distortion on diyaudo )
on the tpa311x output filter, no longer 100% sure film is required.
maybe the generic has C0G equavillants. dont know.
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Dugs I use for mid/treble electrostatic panels have only cog and rubycon pml mu, no classII on pcb, awfully expensive. The cogs do very well, original pml's don't take loudspeakerswitching while powered very well 😀, so got opportunity to replace already expensive pml for pml mu, that's the audio version, more expensive offcourse 😀
Rubycon PML MU is standard version according data sheet:
http://www.rubycon.co.jp/en/catalog/e_pdfs/pmlcap/e_MU.pdf
Their tan d is not the best of the crop but comparable with that of ceramic caps.
http://www.rubycon.co.jp/en/catalog/e_pdfs/pmlcap/e_MU.pdf
Their tan d is not the best of the crop but comparable with that of ceramic caps.
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MU originally was labelled audio version of first version PML ST in original datasheet, maybe now they renamed or changed some, obviously removed audio reference 😀
Maybe also prices changed, don't know.
Maybe also prices changed, don't know.
Did you compare them with other SMD film caps ? Or TH film caps ? Just curious. For instance PPS caps have better specifications on paper. I have used "naked" stacked film PPS SMD caps with very good results but they look quite fragile.
Found the old data sheet of PML MU which states these are designed for "small size and low weight", "automotive use" and it is mentioned that they're "good for audio". The latter can be said of many parts as we have learnt 🙂 Prices don't say too much. What today is expensive can be cheap tomorrow. Mostly parts that are produced in high numbers are cheap regardless of quality.
Found the old data sheet of PML MU which states these are designed for "small size and low weight", "automotive use" and it is mentioned that they're "good for audio". The latter can be said of many parts as we have learnt 🙂 Prices don't say too much. What today is expensive can be cheap tomorrow. Mostly parts that are produced in high numbers are cheap regardless of quality.
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They are fragile. Used "cheap" Panasonic and Kemet film smd's multiple times, in dacs etc, limited value/voltage/size choice.
Huge and much cheaper than MU, polyprop TH parts I did not try hanging around basicly smd layout design Dugs, that does provide TH pads for some locations to do just that.
Most MU's were around $7 ex VAT I remember, TH parts are so cheap 🙂
Huge and much cheaper than MU, polyprop TH parts I did not try hanging around basicly smd layout design Dugs, that does provide TH pads for some locations to do just that.
Most MU's were around $7 ex VAT I remember, TH parts are so cheap 🙂
In applications where caps need to be small and very good I use Wima MKS2 with 2.5 mm pitch. If I can get any with 1 µF that is. Sound excellent and way better than any SMD part I tried. These very small TH film caps are my favourites. I always want the part for the application with the best possible price/quality ratio and in this case their small size (compared with the usual size of film caps) is acceptable in TPA amplifiers although they are higher than SMD parts. Footprint is comparable with 1210 caps. Never encountered a problem because they're somewhat larger than the flimsy bad sounding SMD ceramic caps that are often used on the inputs of these boards. They are priced OK. If it sounds better it is better 😀
The 0.1 µF 2.5 mm version is excellent for decoupling as well. In class D amps low ESL might be key parameter. I got a few ultra low ESL encapsulated film caps from e meter recently which seem high quality but I have not tried them yet as their footprint is unusual to say the least.
The 0.1 µF 2.5 mm version is excellent for decoupling as well. In class D amps low ESL might be key parameter. I got a few ultra low ESL encapsulated film caps from e meter recently which seem high quality but I have not tried them yet as their footprint is unusual to say the least.
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