Cheap chi-fi DAC buy (<30 USD)

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#301
@Chermann
I think I'll keep the LDO for the time being but I'll keep that in my mind for stage 2 of the DAC modding. By the way, can it (AD regs) do + and - ?

@Phase & @Chermann
Charles says the burn-in period is 100 hrs.
OK, I'll keep playing them and see what I find.

phase said:
The small ceramic probably won’t do much on the main filter capacitor. The inductance of the traces will likely null out any good that it will provide. The snubber should go onto the same pair of wires, but shifted over a bit, directly on the diodes.
A .01uf will lower the frequency of the noise from the diodes, and adding another .1uf in series with an 18 ohm added will quiet things down pretty good. And film capacitors will be better imo.
Click to expand...
So, I'm actually gonna start the modding today. I'll be putting a 0.01uF across the two pins of he diode. I'll also adding a 0.1uF+18ohm resistor in parallel too.

But, I'm wondering why add a 18ohm resistor ? To protect the cap or to prevent any

EDIT: I'll replace the big 1500uF caps next to the diodes with a bigger 4700uF ones too.
 
#302
Good morning...🙂 no ...in general 1 regulator can handle + or - voltage. on my workbench is a study regulator ...not the best one but a very good one TPS7A49..Akozon Positives und negatives Leistungsmodul Ultra-Low Noise 15uV Niedriger Verbrauch und hohe PSRR Precision AD DA OPA Netzteil: Amazon.de: Gewerbe, Industrie & Wissenschaft

burn in: lot of guys wrote its nonsences a elctric device cannot burn in....but after 30 yeras listenning audio i can see yes there is a burn in phase...e.g. a chip is constisting of???? yes npn, pnp layer ,diodes, resistor, caps etc......so they are very very small but they are there... dont miss understand me i am and ee but no experience in audio...i have not thd equipment.... but i think just measure the frequency response is not enough...in my opinion the phase and the thd + imd is important for the difference

the energy which the 0,1µF is catching should be not polute the GND...so you need a resistor where the energy is "waste" in real power.

electronic knows 1 real power - you can fell, see, hear it..WATT and 2 ractive power - its a power which is an other "phase" (L or C) and is not measureable easily... Does reactive/inductive load gets paid? And what's the equivalent wattage... - Page 1

if i write ********...its 30 year ago i know that better 😉....so give me a kindly advice..😀

chris
 
#303
Thanks Chermann !
So, that resistor is there to dissipate that energy into heat so as to prevent the current passing through the cap doesn't pollute the GND trace.

Ok, but why not use the same with the 0.01uF cap ? Is it because only very high frequency current pass through that cap ?
 
#304
Yes, converts the noise into heat. The .01uf knocks it all down to a lower frequency, and the .1/resistor quiets that. While it will be optimal to use a scope and fine tune the effects using slightly different values, the values suggested have always made a nice difference. Short distances between the parts involved are highly recommended, no long wires!

Is just a very inexpensive mod that has always produced a decent result for me anyways. It makes it easier to hear the other mods that are done, like high end op amps. Usually there is room to add the few parts in those areas of the boards, so I always recommend using, or trying it at least.
 
#306
Unfortunately, I don't have any 0.01 cap. Need to order it !

Hmm...after a lot of reading about power supplies, I'm thinking an oscilloscope is absolutely necessary for proper tuning. So, I'm prioritizing the purchase of an oscilloscope before anything else.
 
#312
Yeah !
Family is family !


@Chermann
My mods are nothing compared to what you are doing.
But, l'll post mine anyway !

Regarding the caps swap, the leads are longer than necessary but I was watching the F1 race while doing it and soldered it without thinking. Now its looking like a eyesore every time I see it.

I posted my impression in this thread regarding the sound of Burson V6 Classic Dual OP-AMP sent by SS Audio (Charles) earlier. Vocals, especially in Enigma -Return to Innocence, was very un natural. It was like a weird, low quality 'flanger' plug-in.

Cheramnn, Charles and Phase recommended me to do some burn in and I did. Now after some 50 hours, sound has improved...a lot. The 'flanger' effect is completely gone. Bass is a little bit lower in quantity compared to the dual NE5534 but the details in the treble region is unmatched. Outstanding !

Now I have two words to say to those who say burning in is a myth. Feck off 😎
 
#313
If it works fine now, I wouldn’t get too critical about the capacitors, it is very easy to overheat a couple of the power pins via the traces. Besides, once it’s inside a case, you will quickly forget.
Glad you are liking the new sounds, your kids will be spoiled with having that around to listen to!
 
#314
abraxalito said:
For decoupling duty you don't need to care about ripple current, though its a useful marker for ESR. The higher the ripple current rating, the lower the ESR - though this only applies when comparing caps in the same can size. Lower ESR is better but its also more demanding of good layout. Nichicon HZ has the lowest ESR of normal 'lytics, only slightly poorer than polymers.

Btw - don't use C0G for decoupling, X7R or X5R are the ceramics to use.
Click to expand...

from post #219

any ideas if the Nichicon UHZ (ultra low ESR) series is obsolete? (the UHN series too)

chris
 
#315
phase said:
If it works fine now, I wouldn’t get too critical about the capacitors, it is very easy to overheat a couple of the power pins via the traces. Besides, once it’s inside a case, you will quickly forget.
Glad you are liking the new sounds, your kids will be spoiled with having that around to listen to!
Click to expand...
I still like the NE5534 vs the Burson Classic V6 just because of bass quantity. Its too much but I need it because my PC is located in a hall right next to a stair case which leaks bass. Now, when I play "This is a Test", it really tests even the integrity of floor 😀
But the details are amazing with Burson. I'm discovering more and more layers of sound, even in my favorite tracks.
chermann said:
from post #219

any ideas if the Nichicon UHZ (ultra low ESR) series is obsolete? (the UHN series too)

chris
Click to expand...
Why not put a filter in mouser.com search and check it out ?

I personally would not buy low esr caps the DAC power supply as its not needed. I have a lot of Elna SILMICs with me and I plan to use it in the rest of the DAC.
 
#317
Also the recent Burson op amps will sound better after well over 100-150 hours I found. Not sure what type of capacitors they are using, or even if that’s what changing, but I haven’t noticed that before with the typical ceramic smd parts.

The lower esr caps work ok before the regulators, not so much after, with analog especially.
I have not used any super low esr however.
 
#320
 
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