quote from our store
We use fulfillment centers in both the USA and Europe, although newer things are usually stocked in the USA first.
I don't know how it will be with chassis stuff
We use fulfillment centers in both the USA and Europe, although newer things are usually stocked in the USA first.
I don't know how it will be with chassis stuff
The pricing should work out that it is cheaper and faster to get it wherever is closest to you. There will no doubt be some anomalies when you take into consideration location and jurisdiction. If you are in the EU or close to Italy you can purchase directly from them - just go to any product page and click the "Europe" button where you pick the warehouse. It will give you instructions on how to get a quote (and that system will be improved when I get a little time). If you are in the EU VAT region, Hifi2000 will need to charge you VAT. On the plus side, you won't have to wait weeks for your package to get through customs, pay inspection fees and then get charged VAT anyway.
The US does not have a national sales tax or VAT, but most states do.
The US does not have a national sales tax or VAT, but most states do.
When you buy anything you'll have to pay EU vat at arrival plus any import taxes your country might have( this unusually doesn't apply to consumer products but only big bulk orders) so taking the 399$ enclosure as example we get:
With shipping to Portugal it's 533$ and at today's Exchange rate would be 412€ plus vat at 23% goes up to 506€.
That said, I just realised that ordering individual parts for a pesante dissipante enclosure at modushop will be cheaper than ordering the enclosure itself! One just needs to find some L shaped aluminum for inner bracing and this saves me around 50€/70Usd in the case.
Of course this only applies to the non drilled ones!
With shipping to Portugal it's 533$ and at today's Exchange rate would be 412€ plus vat at 23% goes up to 506€.
That said, I just realised that ordering individual parts for a pesante dissipante enclosure at modushop will be cheaper than ordering the enclosure itself! One just needs to find some L shaped aluminum for inner bracing and this saves me around 50€/70Usd in the case.
Of course this only applies to the non drilled ones!
I'm not suggesting we import exported chassis back into Europe.
I am observing that the ex factory price is more expensive than the exported to the US price.
The Forum has given US Members the opportunity to buy locally and for European Members to buy nearly locally.
I am observing that the ex factory price is more expensive than the exported to the US price.
The Forum has given US Members the opportunity to buy locally and for European Members to buy nearly locally.
Because for export they don't charge VAT. So if you take 20%of the case price it will come to just under 400usd.
That said, I just realised that ordering individual parts for a pesante dissipante enclosure at modushop will be cheaper than ordering the enclosure itself!
I doubt that
maybe you have looked at iron parts instead of alu
also note that some have 4 heatsinks per box
That said, I just realised that ordering individual parts for a pesante dissipante enclosure at modushop will be cheaper than ordering the enclosure itself! One just needs to find some L shaped aluminum for inner bracing and this saves me around 50€/70Usd in the case.
Of course this only applies to the non drilled ones!
I'd be surprised if the parts were less than packaged product, you might like to double check the size and also steel versus aluminum. Note also that our "standard" 4U/5U has "maximally vented" covers for the best possible internal cooling, and thus isn't the same as Hifi2000's "standard" model which has regular venting. Also, while Modu's packaging is already very good, all our products have been "super duper" packed as a practical insurance against anything that might go wrong during during sea freight or shipment out from our fulfillment center (Andrea tells me they did a 1 meter drop test on this packaging format and it passed with flying colors). The extra metalwork and extra packaging adds a bit to the price. FYI any of our SKUs that has a dash and a letter after it differs from the standard Hifi2000 product that shares the rest of the SKU.
What I saying and tis a bit off topic is that for people in Europe ordering standard enclosures, not the diyaudio ones, is that is is cheaper to buy separate parts.
Example: 5U dissipante all aluminum. Price 210€
Price for separates, using the beefier iron DFB base, all the rest aluminum: 184.70€
Saving an extra 25€ which covers shipping in Europe. This said, I believe the diyaudio cases are great and might actually use me for an f5t build!
Example: 5U dissipante all aluminum. Price 210€
Price for separates, using the beefier iron DFB base, all the rest aluminum: 184.70€
Saving an extra 25€ which covers shipping in Europe. This said, I believe the diyaudio cases are great and might actually use me for an f5t build!
You're right, I think! 😉 You'll just need to fabricate your own internal mounting brackets and feet and source all the connecting fasteners.
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ah, I thought you were suggesting to buy a box as spare parts
in any 'case' 🙂D), the really big 5U 400mm looks optimal for balanced stereo, or 4 channels
for other the smaller 300mm might be optimal, since its not with split heatsinks
well, right now Im constructing a box from an old scrapped tuner
a lot of effort, and every time I work on it Im thinking how much more easy it would be to buy a premade box where every screw fits nice and smooth
in any 'case' 🙂D), the really big 5U 400mm looks optimal for balanced stereo, or 4 channels
for other the smaller 300mm might be optimal, since its not with split heatsinks
well, right now Im constructing a box from an old scrapped tuner
a lot of effort, and every time I work on it Im thinking how much more easy it would be to buy a premade box where every screw fits nice and smooth
Attachments
Steel Rack Rail Needed
Jason,
On all of these new rackmount chassis, there are 4 pre-drilled and bent steel rails that secure the heatsinks to the front and back panels. I would like to buy just the rails. I need them for another project. I've seen these same rails in numerous other rack cabinets in other forums.
Who makes them? Where can I purchase them?
-Bill
Jason,
On all of these new rackmount chassis, there are 4 pre-drilled and bent steel rails that secure the heatsinks to the front and back panels. I would like to buy just the rails. I need them for another project. I've seen these same rails in numerous other rack cabinets in other forums.
Who makes them? Where can I purchase them?
-Bill
Nuts & bolts
Hi Jason,
Do you have a list of the nuts, bolts and screws included, and which ones to go where?
Thx
Hi Jason,
Do you have a list of the nuts, bolts and screws included, and which ones to go where?
Thx
Hi Jason,
Do you have a list of the nuts, bolts and screws included, and which ones to go where?
Thx
We don't currently but there are plans to "in the future".
Hi There!
Wondering if the specified height of the 2U chassis is the internal height, or full height of the amp? If the latter, what is the available internal height?
thanks!
-v
Wondering if the specified height of the 2U chassis is the internal height, or full height of the amp? If the latter, what is the available internal height?
thanks!
-v
Routing front plate
I want to install some controls on the front plate of a 2U quasi-heatsink chassis (headphone amp), but 10 mm is longer than threads on most controls. How would one route the aluminum so I can bolt the control on the front?
I want to install some controls on the front plate of a 2U quasi-heatsink chassis (headphone amp), but 10 mm is longer than threads on most controls. How would one route the aluminum so I can bolt the control on the front?
Someone else might have a more clever solution, but I think you'll need to use a mill or a drill press with a flat mill bit, like a forstner bit used in woodworking.
Either way, you'll need to securely clamp down the plate and set the depth, working slowly and checking depth as you go.
Either way, you'll need to securely clamp down the plate and set the depth, working slowly and checking depth as you go.
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