Actually the fact that the TA2020 is discontinued is meaningless. There are probably millions parts still available, just take a look at the list of distributors and what they sell. It's like saying that tubes are discontinued... who cares? I like tube amp sound!
By the way other through hole chips are alive and well, and offer advantages. Take for instance the TA4100A used by these people http://www.audiodigit.com/index.php?section=80 . I have one board and it outperforms my old 2020 one by far. The chip is in production if that's the problem... for me the most important fact it that it works better with respect to the 2020, and of the 2024 of the original T-Amp.
The reasons? I don't know, probably the supply voltage, here we have 25 to 27 V instead of 12 to 14, it's far more "easy" to take power out of it! Believe me, the new chips are a step beyond ....
By the way other through hole chips are alive and well, and offer advantages. Take for instance the TA4100A used by these people http://www.audiodigit.com/index.php?section=80 . I have one board and it outperforms my old 2020 one by far. The chip is in production if that's the problem... for me the most important fact it that it works better with respect to the 2020, and of the 2024 of the original T-Amp.
The reasons? I don't know, probably the supply voltage, here we have 25 to 27 V instead of 12 to 14, it's far more "easy" to take power out of it! Believe me, the new chips are a step beyond ....
Newbie questions
I've just ordered 2 Charlize amps for a mono bloc setup.
Before they arrive I thought I'd better do some prep.
I have some 1mm and 0.5mm silver wire, which is best for hook up?
How do I connect LED indicators?
I've just ordered 2 Charlize amps for a mono bloc setup.
Before they arrive I thought I'd better do some prep.
I have some 1mm and 0.5mm silver wire, which is best for hook up?
How do I connect LED indicators?
You have two charlizes and you want them to be in a mono block setup??
I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to do. Remember that like most Tripath based amps, the Charlize is implemented in full-bridge mode meaning you CANNOT bridge them.
Charlizes has some cross talk issues but that to me is minor. If it is a problem, just bi-amp. Have on amp for the left, one for the right, one channel for tweeter and the other for mid. That setup should take care of any crosstalk issues.
For wiring, either should be fine. Silver is a really good conductor. Whatever is easiest for you is what I recommend.
I originally was going to put LED indicators for power, but than I later decided to keep it simple and did not put them in.
[edit]Ascii Circuit did not come out right
To make a LED power indicator, just run a resistor and LED parallel to the power supply for the charlize after the power switch.
I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to do. Remember that like most Tripath based amps, the Charlize is implemented in full-bridge mode meaning you CANNOT bridge them.
Charlizes has some cross talk issues but that to me is minor. If it is a problem, just bi-amp. Have on amp for the left, one for the right, one channel for tweeter and the other for mid. That setup should take care of any crosstalk issues.
For wiring, either should be fine. Silver is a really good conductor. Whatever is easiest for you is what I recommend.
I originally was going to put LED indicators for power, but than I later decided to keep it simple and did not put them in.
[edit]Ascii Circuit did not come out right
To make a LED power indicator, just run a resistor and LED parallel to the power supply for the charlize after the power switch.
Thanks Hara,
By mono bloc i just meant one amp for the left and one for the right with a separate power supply for each.
I was going to use the left channel of each amp, I understand it traditionaly has the shortest path.
By mono bloc i just meant one amp for the left and one for the right with a separate power supply for each.
I was going to use the left channel of each amp, I understand it traditionaly has the shortest path.
Hello, I'm planning to buy a charlize for using it as a power amp and a headphone amp. (Haha first post 😀)
To use the charlize or any tripath chip as a headphone amp, I'll need a 6-8 ohm resistor in parallel with the speaker leads, recable the headphones to XLR to separate the grounds, and add a cap to the power supply rail on the PCB to reduce the ultrasonics.
My question here being... am I missing anything? And, will these mods degrade its performance as a power amp? Thanks
To use the charlize or any tripath chip as a headphone amp, I'll need a 6-8 ohm resistor in parallel with the speaker leads, recable the headphones to XLR to separate the grounds, and add a cap to the power supply rail on the PCB to reduce the ultrasonics.
My question here being... am I missing anything? And, will these mods degrade its performance as a power amp? Thanks
Charlize with Nuuks SMPS
I understand the 10,000 uF power cap for the SMPS should be as close to the Charlize amp but...
What are the issues, if any, in its placement in relation to the Charlize?
What about the I\O signal lines, does it affect them?
Is it best to house the SMPS separately or can it go in with the amp?
I understand the 10,000 uF power cap for the SMPS should be as close to the Charlize amp but...
What are the issues, if any, in its placement in relation to the Charlize?
What about the I\O signal lines, does it affect them?
Is it best to house the SMPS separately or can it go in with the amp?
I have placed SMPS modules right next to my Charlize which is in a plastic pod, ie no metal screening, and found no problems.
The 10K cap can be physically next to the amp or next to the SMPS providing the wires joining them are no more than say 12 inches (30 cm) away.
It is also worth trying a snubber on the 10K cap. The values shown on the snubberised GC pages of DD work fine.
If you use a standard hi-fi case, and keep the amp module and SMPS at
different ends it should be fine. 😉
The 10K cap can be physically next to the amp or next to the SMPS providing the wires joining them are no more than say 12 inches (30 cm) away.
It is also worth trying a snubber on the 10K cap. The values shown on the snubberised GC pages of DD work fine.
If you use a standard hi-fi case, and keep the amp module and SMPS at
different ends it should be fine. 😉
caps the size of cucmbers
I've been looking for a high grade 10k cap for the SMPS.
I found an Elna Cerafin 63V but it's enormous.
What Voltage does this cap need to be?
Are the Elna RJ5 series 'miniaturised' versions suitable for the job?
Any alternative suggestions welcome.
I've been looking for a high grade 10k cap for the SMPS.
I found an Elna Cerafin 63V but it's enormous.
What Voltage does this cap need to be?
Are the Elna RJ5 series 'miniaturised' versions suitable for the job?
Any alternative suggestions welcome.
It depends on the output of the SMPS! Take the maximum voltage, multiply it by 1.25 and get the next highest voltage rating.
So, for 12 volt SMPS 12 x 1.25 = 15 so 16 volt would do but 25 volt rating gives you a bigger safety margin!
For 24 volt SMSP 24 x 1.25 =30 so 35 volt rating is OK.
Quality? Well how much do you want to spend and where are you based? 😉
Hara said:
Brent, this is my setup, which I found to be quite a nice upgrade from a single amp. I'm still shocked at how good these little amps sound.
I would like to try bi-amp setup. Is there any problems with powering the board , but only useing one channel? Or is it as simple as it seems, just source to one side and out to one side?Hara said:
Thanks Nigel
For more information on bi-amping visit
http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm
As a summary the point of bi-amping is to reduce the difficulty of the load that normally a crossover puts on the amplifier.
As for just using one channel for the charlize that is fine but to me thats just wasting a channel that could be better utilized with bi-amping.
Also Korrah,
http://www.michael.mardis.com/sonic/start.html
Don't use the charlize as a headphone amp. It's not recommended.
http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm
As a summary the point of bi-amping is to reduce the difficulty of the load that normally a crossover puts on the amplifier.
As for just using one channel for the charlize that is fine but to me thats just wasting a channel that could be better utilized with bi-amping.
Also Korrah,
http://www.michael.mardis.com/sonic/start.html
Don't use the charlize as a headphone amp. It's not recommended.
barfind said:
Or do you mean you want to go dual mono with only using 1 channel per amp board? This is for the B200's or have you made a speaker with an xo Nigel?
rabbitz said:
Hi Pete. This for my B200's. I am thinking of mounting an amp below each driver using only one channel per speaker. I know this means one channel is never used, but if there is an improvement, my speakers will easily tell me
😀
Nigel
I was thinking of mounting a Charlize on each baffle with dual B200s. In order to bi-amp, would sharing a single input into both channels on the Charlize have the same destructive affect that tying the grounds together would have at the output stage?
(my first post. Pardon my bad etiquette. Do correct me 🙂 )
Firstly, I found this little amp wonderful. The details is so much more than the Rotel RA-1060 that I've been using. Also, it has better control on complicated music passages than the SI original T-amp.
I have 2 questions:
1.
Would you consider Elna Starget 10k uF 25V be a high grade cap? I found that it slows down the pace of music when i use it across the power rail. I'm using 13.8V SMPS rated 2.2A regulated.
2. After listening to it for 3 days, it has grown from edgy in the high frequencies to just being bright. Is there something I can do about it? I'm using a pair of Loth X Ion 1 bookshelves.
Thanks for any input.
Firstly, I found this little amp wonderful. The details is so much more than the Rotel RA-1060 that I've been using. Also, it has better control on complicated music passages than the SI original T-amp.
I have 2 questions:
1.
Would you consider Elna Starget 10k uF 25V be a high grade cap? I found that it slows down the pace of music when i use it across the power rail. I'm using 13.8V SMPS rated 2.2A regulated.
2. After listening to it for 3 days, it has grown from edgy in the high frequencies to just being bright. Is there something I can do about it? I'm using a pair of Loth X Ion 1 bookshelves.
Thanks for any input.
Here's a chassis for Charlize i made for a friend in Manila.
My Projects: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v692/BonDizon/
My Projects: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v692/BonDizon/
How about trying a basic bypass config?
0.1uf cap and 1R resistor across the pins of the big cap.
Other than that, you could change the input cerafine caps to obliggatos off-board.
0.1uf cap and 1R resistor across the pins of the big cap.
Other than that, you could change the input cerafine caps to obliggatos off-board.
bro said:
bro said:
Try it without caps. I pulled my caps out for the same reson of lack of pace and rythyme.
You may have to experiment with cables . What source are you useing. How have you wired your Charlize. Different wire has different sounds. With a bit more info we may be able to help you easier.
Regards Nigel
Thanks Barfind and Angchuck for the suggestions. Currently I've disconnected the stiffener cap. Will try the bypass soon once I get the parts.
What is "obliggatos off-board"?
Actually I should mention that this being my very first diy ever, my 2 left thumbs screwed up the input (R/GND/GND/L) soldering pads. So one thing leads to another, I ended up having a convenient "feature" of using connectors for the input caps. So, as itchy fingers as I am, I've been trying different caps.
And this is what I noticed (or maybe I have 2 left ears 😛 )
1. With Elna Cerafine 15uF 50V in the same orientation as Yeo did: Can't hear any difference. Probably need to run in more than a day.
2. With Blackgate N 4.7uF 50V with long legs nearer to the chip: There's plenty of
"air", which might contribute to the "brightness" of sound. Pace also picks up.
3. With the same Blackgates reversed to having the short legs nearer to the chip: pacing is more normal and don't sound so bright. Compared to the Elnas', there's more "air". This is my favorite sound so far.
BTW, I'm using Mac mini as source. Taralabs Prism interconnects. Solid core occ copper wires for signal path in Charlize.
What is "obliggatos off-board"?
Actually I should mention that this being my very first diy ever, my 2 left thumbs screwed up the input (R/GND/GND/L) soldering pads. So one thing leads to another, I ended up having a convenient "feature" of using connectors for the input caps. So, as itchy fingers as I am, I've been trying different caps.
And this is what I noticed (or maybe I have 2 left ears 😛 )
1. With Elna Cerafine 15uF 50V in the same orientation as Yeo did: Can't hear any difference. Probably need to run in more than a day.
2. With Blackgate N 4.7uF 50V with long legs nearer to the chip: There's plenty of
"air", which might contribute to the "brightness" of sound. Pace also picks up.
3. With the same Blackgates reversed to having the short legs nearer to the chip: pacing is more normal and don't sound so bright. Compared to the Elnas', there's more "air". This is my favorite sound so far.
BTW, I'm using Mac mini as source. Taralabs Prism interconnects. Solid core occ copper wires for signal path in Charlize.