Brian - what value of input/feedback resistors are you basing that on and what formula did you use to calculate the result? 😕
I don't actually know what feedback resistors come with the amp6, but I'm willing to bet Jan didn't stray from the same gain settings that the amp3 has.
The gain of the amp6 can be determined the same way it is for the amp3.
Av=-12*(Rf/Ri)
Ri is the resistor right after the input coupling cap and Rf is the feedback resistor after Ri.
If they're the same value the gain of the amp is -12V/V or 20 log 12 = 21.6dB 🙂
The gain of the amp6 can be determined the same way it is for the amp3.
Av=-12*(Rf/Ri)
Ri is the resistor right after the input coupling cap and Rf is the feedback resistor after Ri.
If they're the same value the gain of the amp is -12V/V or 20 log 12 = 21.6dB 🙂
Andy,
Like what some owners here have mentioned, mine too is dead quite.
Try checking the noise source by isolating the Charlize from the rest of the electrial connection. Disconnect Charlize from the other devices like your PC and only leave it connected to a clean power supply. If it is still noisy through your 97dB
speakers, then maybe a fault has arises due to the initial swap on the power supply connection.
Like what some owners here have mentioned, mine too is dead quite.
Try checking the noise source by isolating the Charlize from the rest of the electrial connection. Disconnect Charlize from the other devices like your PC and only leave it connected to a clean power supply. If it is still noisy through your 97dB
speakers, then maybe a fault has arises due to the initial swap on the power supply connection.
Gain is 12 if ratio of input resistors is 1:1 - it's all in the datasheet, including performance graphs, and an evaluation circuit remarkably (and remarked on) similar evaluation circuit to the Charlize. I've seen worse manuals - a reccomended read.
Hi all,
Tried isolate the source and confirmed that the Charlize is very quite. Quiter than my DRD300B. The noise is confirmed to come from either the DAC or the USB sound Card. Will determine it.
Andy
Tried isolate the source and confirmed that the Charlize is very quite. Quiter than my DRD300B. The noise is confirmed to come from either the DAC or the USB sound Card. Will determine it.
Andy
Help w/charlize and SMPS, I am retarded (almost)
Dear List,
I must say that I LOVE my sonic T amp with my SLA battery and my Omega Mini Me speakers. My CD player is Music Fidelity X Ray V3 (if anyone cares)....But after reading about the Charlize amp and all the threads about the SMPS it seems like for about 200.00USD I could get an amp and some parts and solder it all up. The only problem is that I am almost retarded when it comes to the DIY stuff. I have never built anything, installing car cd player has been the hardest thing that I have done. Getting the SLA going was pretty tricky for me, (thank you radio shack).
I love good music and I am on a budget and I live in a small apartment.
So I see Andrewbee's post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=753167#post753167 that is pretty helpful. Seems easier that buying from UK.
But I kinda need it spelled out for me.
I need to buy two 12V@6.3A SMPS, it that for left and right channel? I am not quiet sure where to go from here. I also need caps 10000uF@63V. I am not quiet sure where to put those.
I can search the forums for a cheap box to put the amp in and buy good connectors for interconnects and speaker wires. I will use my CI Audio passive preamp to control the volume, I wont need a volume pot. I don't mean to kill the momentum of this thread but I would love to BEAT my current system and I need your help please.
Thanks!
Dear List,
I must say that I LOVE my sonic T amp with my SLA battery and my Omega Mini Me speakers. My CD player is Music Fidelity X Ray V3 (if anyone cares)....But after reading about the Charlize amp and all the threads about the SMPS it seems like for about 200.00USD I could get an amp and some parts and solder it all up. The only problem is that I am almost retarded when it comes to the DIY stuff. I have never built anything, installing car cd player has been the hardest thing that I have done. Getting the SLA going was pretty tricky for me, (thank you radio shack).
I love good music and I am on a budget and I live in a small apartment.
So I see Andrewbee's post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=753167#post753167 that is pretty helpful. Seems easier that buying from UK.
But I kinda need it spelled out for me.
I need to buy two 12V@6.3A SMPS, it that for left and right channel? I am not quiet sure where to go from here. I also need caps 10000uF@63V. I am not quiet sure where to put those.
I can search the forums for a cheap box to put the amp in and buy good connectors for interconnects and speaker wires. I will use my CI Audio passive preamp to control the volume, I wont need a volume pot. I don't mean to kill the momentum of this thread but I would love to BEAT my current system and I need your help please.
Thanks!
Hi KenScott. Welcome to the thread. I am sure you will manage to set up a Charlize. You only need one power supply, or you could go the SLA route, and not even use the caps. They sound better without caps when using the battery supply. If you have fitted a player to your car ,you will eat this , its that easy. You will get loads of help here, so just start. Its that good an amp😀
Nigel
Nigel
I second Barfind's comments KenScott.
It's really not that difficult to do what you propose, jsut go carefully and ask for help here when you need it.
I put a simple diagram on Decibel Dungeon showing how to set up the SMPS that I sell there. You probably won't need the load resistor but it shows you what is involved in housing the SMPS.
It's really not that difficult to do what you propose, jsut go carefully and ask for help here when you need it.
I put a simple diagram on Decibel Dungeon showing how to set up the SMPS that I sell there. You probably won't need the load resistor but it shows you what is involved in housing the SMPS.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Input Caps
Does anyone know the input impedance of the Charlize? I'm wanting to swap out the 10uF electrolytic input capacitors for film varieties and am wondering if I might get away with a lower size.
Does anyone know the input impedance of the Charlize? I'm wanting to swap out the 10uF electrolytic input capacitors for film varieties and am wondering if I might get away with a lower size.
Well I don't think that the circuit of Charlize is much different from the Audiodigit 2020 amp and that uses 2.2 uF film caps as standard. I replaced those with 4.7 uF polyprops and it sounds fabulous!
Charlize progress report
Here's one for you. I purchased a Sonic Impact amp for my computer listening pleasure, using Totem Mite speakers and iTunes and a cheap wall wart SMPS running a good 30% higher voltage than spec. Of the, say, 10 most important things a stereo must do well, the Sonic Impact did 3 or 4 better than I've otherwise heard, no small feat considering my main (cough, secondary?) system is Emm Labs SACD based.
But the overvoltage (and my impatience with microscopic soldering) killed the SI, so it's on to new and better ..... a Charlize! Here's a picture of progress so far.
Here's one for you. I purchased a Sonic Impact amp for my computer listening pleasure, using Totem Mite speakers and iTunes and a cheap wall wart SMPS running a good 30% higher voltage than spec. Of the, say, 10 most important things a stereo must do well, the Sonic Impact did 3 or 4 better than I've otherwise heard, no small feat considering my main (cough, secondary?) system is Emm Labs SACD based.
But the overvoltage (and my impatience with microscopic soldering) killed the SI, so it's on to new and better ..... a Charlize! Here's a picture of progress so far.
Attachments
Note the sophisticated measures used to counteract gravity. Excluding the Charlize board, the white input capacitors are UOS (used old stock) film types, and the remaining components are leftover speaker crossover components intended to provide a measure of very high frequency filtering of the SMPS power supply currently on its way from an Ebay seller. Dangling within view are my home-braided interconnect using cloth covered bare, tarnished silver wire, and twisted teflon enameled untarnished homebrew silver speaker wire.
The recipe for the power supply filter is: SMPS ----> a handful of mixed dielectric capacitors arbitrarily chosen ---> an excellent low-DCR inductor of otherwise arbitrary value ---> a 630VDC PIO final filter capacitor, the voltage rating chosen to be in keeping with the overall arbitrarieness of this design.
Hi Tom ,
is it possible that you post a Schematic of your
nice work ?
Greetings from Germany
Jürgen
is it possible that you post a Schematic of your
nice work ?
Greetings from Germany
Jürgen
Thank you very much Tom that was a great help !
is it possible that you post the rest ? i mean not the Charlize PCB
i mean the aditional Parts of your nice work .
Jürgen
is it possible that you post the rest ? i mean not the Charlize PCB
i mean the aditional Parts of your nice work .
Jürgen
Hi Jurgen, there's not much else to post, except the value of my input capacitors, which are 3 x 0.22uF paralleled teflon varieties eliminating the 10uF electrolytics. The inductor is a Jensen 12AWG paper-in-wax variety, and the 4700uF electrolytics are Black Gates. The 3.3uF capacitor is a Jensen PIO. All wiring not otherwise described is bare (air dielectric!) silver wire. These are premium parts I had laying around, and they should add a nice extra bit of magic to the magically holosonic sound these Tripath chips create.
My SMPS, by the way, is this.
My SMPS, by the way, is this.
Hey Tom, that's a cool looking PSU. Nice find. Also nice that you can dial it up to 13.3 volts.
I tried a big Miller toroid choke on the outout of some SMPS I was testing. It did not make the SMPS happy! Maybe I need a better circuit.
FWIW, I found that a reasonable sized cap, e.g. a Panasonic FM series 100uF on the output of the SMPS cleaned up the noise a lot. Maybe as much as 12dB. An LC circuit like yours should work even better, if it didn't drive my SMPS crazy.
I'll have to try again. Good work!
I tried a big Miller toroid choke on the outout of some SMPS I was testing. It did not make the SMPS happy! Maybe I need a better circuit.
FWIW, I found that a reasonable sized cap, e.g. a Panasonic FM series 100uF on the output of the SMPS cleaned up the noise a lot. Maybe as much as 12dB. An LC circuit like yours should work even better, if it didn't drive my SMPS crazy.
I'll have to try again. Good work!