Hello,
Hm..I´ve read the 4 pages here and I wonder about something.
The original transport was from Sanyo (OPC15), but someone guessed in the earlier posts it looks similiar to a Sony pickup.
Am I right that the Threadstarter bought the sony and go on with this?
If so, why not buying the ORIGINAL ?
Background:
I´ve bought a CDP1 which couldn´t read any CD ( has not arrived yet) and will fix the player as good as possible.(I´m a technician)
So I wonder, searching by google and found this here, why not fix the player with original spares.
If I could get the original spare, I will do it first before trying it out with similar looking parts...
Greetings,
Random
Hm..I´ve read the 4 pages here and I wonder about something.
The original transport was from Sanyo (OPC15), but someone guessed in the earlier posts it looks similiar to a Sony pickup.
Am I right that the Threadstarter bought the sony and go on with this?
If so, why not buying the ORIGINAL ?
Background:
I´ve bought a CDP1 which couldn´t read any CD ( has not arrived yet) and will fix the player as good as possible.(I´m a technician)
So I wonder, searching by google and found this here, why not fix the player with original spares.
If I could get the original spare, I will do it first before trying it out with similar looking parts...
Greetings,
Random
Howdy,
Yes, the OP (myself) put in an opc-15 and a sony laser which just fit, both with the same random read results.
Murf
Yes, the OP (myself) put in an opc-15 and a sony laser which just fit, both with the same random read results.
Murf
Hi,
Well...this week the CDP1 will arrive to me.
Hope, nobody puts his fingers on it for fixing..
Ift is it "only" the laser-pickup, I will replace it with the original and after this doing several measurings to check , for example, the accuracy of reading tracks.
However, report follows here...;-)
Random
Well...this week the CDP1 will arrive to me.
Hope, nobody puts his fingers on it for fixing..
Ift is it "only" the laser-pickup, I will replace it with the original and after this doing several measurings to check , for example, the accuracy of reading tracks.
However, report follows here...;-)
Random
Me again...
The Berendsen has arrived.
Surprise one :
Its a CDP 1 SE, with delta-sigma converter.
Surprise two:
It doesn´t have the same Transport/Servo as Littlebears one.
It seems "older" - and : You have to adjust it manually, with 5 Trimmers...
I´ve send a mail to Sven Berendsen, to ask for schematic/adjustment advices..
Soon I will post some Pics from inside..
Random
The Berendsen has arrived.
Surprise one :
Its a CDP 1 SE, with delta-sigma converter.
Surprise two:
It doesn´t have the same Transport/Servo as Littlebears one.
It seems "older" - and : You have to adjust it manually, with 5 Trimmers...
I´ve send a mail to Sven Berendsen, to ask for schematic/adjustment advices..
Soon I will post some Pics from inside..
Random
Inside the CDP 1 SE:
[img=http://www.abload.de/thumb/insidecdp10064jwb.jpg]
And now I found out, whats the matter of not reading Disc:
In this case, it´s not the Pickup-after loading the CD, the player try to read, spins up but the CD´s not running- after giving a lightly tip on the disc-clamp, it will read the CD..
And:
The GamuT CD 1 is nearly similar to the Berendsen CDP 1...
Random
[img=http://www.abload.de/thumb/insidecdp10064jwb.jpg]
And now I found out, whats the matter of not reading Disc:
In this case, it´s not the Pickup-after loading the CD, the player try to read, spins up but the CD´s not running- after giving a lightly tip on the disc-clamp, it will read the CD..
And:
The GamuT CD 1 is nearly similar to the Berendsen CDP 1...
Random
Last edited:
Honestly, looks like $300-400 retail price player from what's inside, but not terrible.
I think it very likely the problem the OP was having was caused by carbon buildup in the platter motor. A good shot of silicone spray lub up into the motor then some excersize is a likely cure.
I think it very likely the problem the OP was having was caused by carbon buildup in the platter motor. A good shot of silicone spray lub up into the motor then some excersize is a likely cure.
Hi,
Honestly You won´t get a Player worth 400$ with seperate Powersupplies, 2 R-Core Transformers, separate Multilayerboards for Servo, Analog and Digital out Sections and discrete Outputstages, packed in a 11Kg Case with 10mm Alu-frontplate and 3mm steel for the Rest.
But You´re right, for the first look it seems poor..
Thank You for the hint, I will try it out- thank god its not the laser...
No answers so far from Berendsen or Gamut (Schematic/Adhjustment hints)..
Random
Honestly You won´t get a Player worth 400$ with seperate Powersupplies, 2 R-Core Transformers, separate Multilayerboards for Servo, Analog and Digital out Sections and discrete Outputstages, packed in a 11Kg Case with 10mm Alu-frontplate and 3mm steel for the Rest.
But You´re right, for the first look it seems poor..
Thank You for the hint, I will try it out- thank god its not the laser...
No answers so far from Berendsen or Gamut (Schematic/Adhjustment hints)..
Random
"A good shot of silicone spray lub up into the motor then some excersize is a likely cure"
That was the Solution- I´ve used "Kontakt Gold 2000" and everything works fine..
Thanks !
That was the Solution- I´ve used "Kontakt Gold 2000" and everything works fine..
Thanks !
Hello Audio Experts!
OP here; RT & SS, please explain the fixes you found in more detail. I still have the hots for this cdp; I bought a highly rated DAC since & think the cdp-1 sounds better....
Murf
OP here; RT & SS, please explain the fixes you found in more detail. I still have the hots for this cdp; I bought a highly rated DAC since & think the cdp-1 sounds better....
Murf
There is probably a small circuit board that the platter & tracking drive motors are attached to. If you desolder the two motor terminals for each motor, the board should be removable. You will then see two slots near the center of each motor. While the platter motor is the likely culprit, no reason not to "treat" both motors. Using a silicone-based spray lubricant, one that comes with an extension nozzle tube, available from lots of auto parts & hardware stores, give a healthy shot(like a quarter-second spritz) of lub into either or both slots. Then solder the board back into place, then run the player for a good, long while in "pause" on the first track of a cd(for highest spin rate). After a half hour or so of this, re-test the player, and hopefully problem will be solved.
It appears from photos posted earlier that this unit has no adjustments at all outside the laser's power output pot. This suggests that it, unwisely, was designed with ither a Philips or Philips-style servo chip that "auto adjusts", referencing only the current draw of the laser's photodiode array. As this system was designed for Philips lasers, it is not completely suited to use with Sony & etc. lasers. So, unlike if it was built with the Sony servo chip, you have no options for improving disc playability via servo adjustments. This means either a)you are out of luck, or b)you may get lucky by trying another new laser, more likely the original Samsung part.
Hi,
It seems, that I have an older version of the CDP I.
Electronics and Traverseunit are fully splitted- only cables goes to the motors.
So it was very easy to fill in.
I´ve used Kontakt Gold 2000, because I´d some fear about sillicone-based solutions (what is if the sillicone lays it down on the brushes of the motor?).
Whatever, it works fine also.
Now I´ve sell the Berendsen away, because the Sound was a little bit too "warm" for me (Owner of a pair of boxes with Ribbon-Tweeters)..
It seems, that I have an older version of the CDP I.
Electronics and Traverseunit are fully splitted- only cables goes to the motors.
So it was very easy to fill in.
I´ve used Kontakt Gold 2000, because I´d some fear about sillicone-based solutions (what is if the sillicone lays it down on the brushes of the motor?).
Whatever, it works fine also.
Now I´ve sell the Berendsen away, because the Sound was a little bit too "warm" for me (Owner of a pair of boxes with Ribbon-Tweeters)..
Coating the brushes is the INTENT behind using the silicone lub. The fault that develops in these motors is carbon build-up on the commutator, caused by tiny arcs that happen as the brushes traverse from a positive comm contact to a negative contact. The oil content of the lub helps dislodge the carbon, and the silicone remains behind to reduce future build-up by helping maintain better contact between brushes & comm. After many, many years of this practice, I have yet to see any of this type of motor have any further problems.
New Route:
Hello Audio Experts!
I've put in a new laser & new motors. My problem is only worse now!
How about the transport tray being the problem? It has a belt of unknown age which looks like it might be slipping (due to age or liquid wrench?), and it has 2 or 3 switches which are now dowsed in liquid wrench. I can't find any info on who made the transport.
Seems like a stretch, but...?
Murf
Hello Audio Experts!
I've put in a new laser & new motors. My problem is only worse now!
How about the transport tray being the problem? It has a belt of unknown age which looks like it might be slipping (due to age or liquid wrench?), and it has 2 or 3 switches which are now dowsed in liquid wrench. I can't find any info on who made the transport.
Seems like a stretch, but...?
Murf
Tray could only be a problem if the disc was rubbing against it, or preventing it from being fully clamped. How about the ribbon cable to the laser? Nearly as much of a stretch as the tray, given the symptoms, but there ain't much left to suspect. Have you checked for noise on the regulated power supply lines? All grounding screws tight? Grasping at straws here.
Hello Audio Experts! Yes, my Berendsen is still acting inconsistantly. I have been watching the tray with the cover off, and was wondering: What does it mean when my cd-r's spin up too fast, or even spin in the wrong direction? This happens often. Store bought cds never do this (I think).
Murf
Murf
LB, I woudl say it means we need to find a service manual!;-) The backwards spin thing is something I have only ever seen with philips-based units, usually a sign of failing lytic caps or fault/faults in the ground circuit. Can you post photos of the top & bottom sides of the main pcb?
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