Hi Mooly
With both laser units, the store-bought CDs play most of the time, but not always. The not-recognized CDs (store & CDR's) will spin, but sometimes at a faster speed, and sometimes even counter-clockwise.
The laser chassis does have the motors incorporated, so yes, new motors & spindles.
I'll get some CDR's that have been burnt elsewhere to try....
Murf
With both laser units, the store-bought CDs play most of the time, but not always. The not-recognized CDs (store & CDR's) will spin, but sometimes at a faster speed, and sometimes even counter-clockwise.
The laser chassis does have the motors incorporated, so yes, new motors & spindles.
I'll get some CDR's that have been burnt elsewhere to try....
Murf
The fact store cd's sometimes fail to start does suggest a problem somewhere. Ne laser, new motors... the definitive check is with a scope.
Not that you should alter anything but are there any preset controls on the main PCB. They could be surface mounted presets meaning very tiny and they could be on either side of the PCB. Like this, perhaps only a few mm square.
Not that you should alter anything but are there any preset controls on the main PCB. They could be surface mounted presets meaning very tiny and they could be on either side of the PCB. Like this, perhaps only a few mm square.
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There's not much I can suggest now tbh. It needs more detailed faultfinding using a scope. A look at a service manual would help too...
Well smack me upside the head!
I really didn't it think it would be my computer drive since the CDRs worked in the 3 other machines. But I got some CDRs from my nabe last night to check if they would work (made on a Mac, so they must be better!) in my bad cdp. Both were read pronto! I'm going to try some other CDRs from another nabe before getting a new computer drive/burner (since this one is only ~ 2yrs old), but HEY! Could this be it?
Skeptically (but sort of happy), Murf 😎
PS: Tried one of my oldest CDRs, prob made on my last computer, and: Yes!
I really didn't it think it would be my computer drive since the CDRs worked in the 3 other machines. But I got some CDRs from my nabe last night to check if they would work (made on a Mac, so they must be better!) in my bad cdp. Both were read pronto! I'm going to try some other CDRs from another nabe before getting a new computer drive/burner (since this one is only ~ 2yrs old), but HEY! Could this be it?
Skeptically (but sort of happy), Murf 😎
PS: Tried one of my oldest CDRs, prob made on my last computer, and: Yes!
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It doesn't surprise me at all tbh... it comes down to the fact CDR's are a "non redbook" standard when it comes to quality of the signal on the discs.
Some players just cope better than others with the discs. I wouldn't like to say your burner was faulty without actually looking at an "off disc signal".
Sometimes burning at either slower or faster speeds is better too. For me, and I tried this, I get the best signal when burned at high speeds (Acer laptop) although (for me) all speeds work OK on discs I burn and play on my Micromega.
Fingers crossed then 🙂
Some players just cope better than others with the discs. I wouldn't like to say your burner was faulty without actually looking at an "off disc signal".
Sometimes burning at either slower or faster speeds is better too. For me, and I tried this, I get the best signal when burned at high speeds (Acer laptop) although (for me) all speeds work OK on discs I burn and play on my Micromega.
Fingers crossed then 🙂
More...
Went to the basement of my apt. building, where we have a 'swap shop' for books, dvds & CDs, and picked up 18 CDRs.
Score:
5 no plays
13 plays
Mind you that since these are 'abandoned' to our basement, some don't look too good. But my own recently burned CDRs were like 1 for 20 or so. I always burn at lowest speed (8x), because everyone KNOWS that makes the best CDRs! I have no ideas about how the basement CDs were made.
Man, I hope this continues....
Murf
Went to the basement of my apt. building, where we have a 'swap shop' for books, dvds & CDs, and picked up 18 CDRs.
Score:
5 no plays
13 plays
Mind you that since these are 'abandoned' to our basement, some don't look too good. But my own recently burned CDRs were like 1 for 20 or so. I always burn at lowest speed (8x), because everyone KNOWS that makes the best CDRs! I have no ideas about how the basement CDs were made.
Man, I hope this continues....
Murf
🙂 Yep, that's what I was always told and read too. So I tested it, burning different CDR's at different speeds and looking at the RF (the eye pattern) from the recovered signal as played on a Philips CD150.
The higher the speed and the clearer and higher the amplitude of the signal.
So the question NOW seems to be...
Which brand burner for my computer is best (full size windows computer)? Not sure what this one is, but the computer says it is an "Optiarc".
Murf
Which brand burner for my computer is best (full size windows computer)? Not sure what this one is, but the computer says it is an "Optiarc".
Murf
I am definitely not the one to ask on that 🙂
All I could suggest is sticking to a well known brand.
BUMMER! I quit...
Things looked so promising just the other day. But now not.
Using many of the CDRs that I used last time (some from the basement, some made on my Sony Optiarc drive) plus some others made on my last computer, plus some made on my brand new computer drive (recommended by the salesman!) which only records at 48x (LG), score was:
no play: 18
play: 11
Play or no play has been so random throughout this process, I can only conclude that my cdp is to blame.
I contacted a sort-of-local repair shop to see what they thought, and they had never heard of a Berendsen, & so thought a repair would cost multiple hundreds. I emailed a shop which a Berenedsen dealer said could help, but they didn't return my email. The dealer said that this machine was mucho trouble.
I also couldn't find a trace or hint of a Berendsen or Gamut service manual on the web.
I think this has run its course.
Thanks to all, especially Mooly!
Murf
Things looked so promising just the other day. But now not.
Using many of the CDRs that I used last time (some from the basement, some made on my Sony Optiarc drive) plus some others made on my last computer, plus some made on my brand new computer drive (recommended by the salesman!) which only records at 48x (LG), score was:
no play: 18
play: 11
Play or no play has been so random throughout this process, I can only conclude that my cdp is to blame.
I contacted a sort-of-local repair shop to see what they thought, and they had never heard of a Berendsen, & so thought a repair would cost multiple hundreds. I emailed a shop which a Berenedsen dealer said could help, but they didn't return my email. The dealer said that this machine was mucho trouble.
I also couldn't find a trace or hint of a Berendsen or Gamut service manual on the web.
I think this has run its course.
Thanks to all, especially Mooly!
Murf
Thats a pity but there isn't much more you can do without access to a 'scope.
Any decent bench tech would have no trouble hooking one up and looking at the signal... and that really is what needs to be done. And then perhaps a read at the service manual... and although I have never come across one (on a CD player), it is possible that adjustments could be done via software perhaps using the remote control, or by putting the player into a "service mode". That's common on other products, TV, DVD etc. Without a manual its impossible to guess at that.
Any decent bench tech would have no trouble hooking one up and looking at the signal... and that really is what needs to be done. And then perhaps a read at the service manual... and although I have never come across one (on a CD player), it is possible that adjustments could be done via software perhaps using the remote control, or by putting the player into a "service mode". That's common on other products, TV, DVD etc. Without a manual its impossible to guess at that.
Oh No, Mr. Bill!
The service center says the transport is a proprietary design. Doesn't sound cheap....
Murf
The service center says the transport is a proprietary design. Doesn't sound cheap....
Murf
Mr Bill indeed...it sounds like they don't want to get involved tbh 😉
You have changed the transport though... its a standard off the shelf assembly.
Any tech worth their salt could find the signal even without a manual. Its whether there are "hidden" adjustments via software that is the killer question. Such things as the chipset its based on too. No manufacturer produces their own... it would be way to costly for what is a limited appeal product. Even the mega bucks players are all based on Philips and Sony mechs etc.
I just can't suggest anything more that you yourself can do unfortunately... it needs proper diagnosis and checking of all things mechanical and electrical.
You have changed the transport though... its a standard off the shelf assembly.
Any tech worth their salt could find the signal even without a manual. Its whether there are "hidden" adjustments via software that is the killer question. Such things as the chipset its based on too. No manufacturer produces their own... it would be way to costly for what is a limited appeal product. Even the mega bucks players are all based on Philips and Sony mechs etc.
I just can't suggest anything more that you yourself can do unfortunately... it needs proper diagnosis and checking of all things mechanical and electrical.
Well...
I have changed the laser & motors assembly. Wouldn't the 'transport' include the 'control board', with the samsung chips & the caps, etc? I think this stuff is most likely the problem, no? (I know, put a scope on it!)
Murf
I have changed the laser & motors assembly. Wouldn't the 'transport' include the 'control board', with the samsung chips & the caps, etc? I think this stuff is most likely the problem, no? (I know, put a scope on it!)
Murf
It might be listed as a service item from the manufacturer... its not normal to replace the electronics though.
Would that be the problem ?
Experience says probably not tbh... electronics like that are supremely reliable as a rule.
It has to be looked at methodically.
1. Mechanics first.
2. Check of signal off the disc... that shows exactly whats going on. It may be that it is perfect and the problem is elsewhere but we don't know until we check.
3. Check of all power supplies... and yes... also with a scope to look for noise and hash from for example a failed cap.
Its a standard procedure for any item really... I'm sorry there is no other way 🙂
Experience says probably not tbh... electronics like that are supremely reliable as a rule.
It has to be looked at methodically.
1. Mechanics first.
2. Check of signal off the disc... that shows exactly whats going on. It may be that it is perfect and the problem is elsewhere but we don't know until we check.
3. Check of all power supplies... and yes... also with a scope to look for noise and hash from for example a failed cap.
Its a standard procedure for any item really... I'm sorry there is no other way 🙂
wait a second ! you said :
So, maybe you can investigate deeper the symptomes.
1. remove the plastic bridge that holds the puck
2. dissassemble the puck by turning it anti clockwise, easy there's just some glue
3. reassemble the puck (3 parts)
4. remove the draw, and pay attention to the switch that it activates when closed
5. put a tape or something else to keep the switch as in closed draw position
Now, try again to see if you are back to the first post events. Probably no improvement, but never know...
a pic to show you the puck, and good luck
So, maybe you can investigate deeper the symptomes.
1. remove the plastic bridge that holds the puck
2. dissassemble the puck by turning it anti clockwise, easy there's just some glue
3. reassemble the puck (3 parts)
4. remove the draw, and pay attention to the switch that it activates when closed
5. put a tape or something else to keep the switch as in closed draw position
Now, try again to see if you are back to the first post events. Probably no improvement, but never know...
a pic to show you the puck, and good luck
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