Overall performance is very good. This player has much more separation and weight than my previous one. Seems like a good concept. [/B][/QUOTE]
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Really admire the effort that people put in. But it seems that the project is too expensive in money and effort. One can buy as good new and used transports ready made.
🙂
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Really admire the effort that people put in. But it seems that the project is too expensive in money and effort. One can buy as good new and used transports ready made.
🙂
hole cutting
I had success using a holesaw, and a jigsaw.
Cut the hole first- using a bimetal holesaw [and a stand drill], and then use a good quality jigsaw with a sharp blade to cut out the rest.
The result will almost certainly need to be filed out, and not be quite as good as Anthony's milled piece, but it does cut out the expense of a milling machine.
I had a 5mm aluminium plate initially, but that's too thick. I'd say 4mm will just about be the maximum with the cast base still attached.
In retrospect, the transport is very expensive- friends from Hong Kong balked at the price, given what they can get from China- but this has been a most fascinating journey.
Incidentally, if Coulomb is watching, I'd love to know about the lid hinge- what have you used?
I had success using a holesaw, and a jigsaw.
Cut the hole first- using a bimetal holesaw [and a stand drill], and then use a good quality jigsaw with a sharp blade to cut out the rest.
The result will almost certainly need to be filed out, and not be quite as good as Anthony's milled piece, but it does cut out the expense of a milling machine.
I had a 5mm aluminium plate initially, but that's too thick. I'd say 4mm will just about be the maximum with the cast base still attached.
In retrospect, the transport is very expensive- friends from Hong Kong balked at the price, given what they can get from China- but this has been a most fascinating journey.
Incidentally, if Coulomb is watching, I'd love to know about the lid hinge- what have you used?
I will take a close up photo of the hinge this weekend for you. Basically it is an anodized aluminum aircraft piano hinge that I shapped to fit my application. The struts are gas charged assemblies specificallly designed for cabinet closures in confined spaces. They are made by a British company and were procurred from Mcmastercarr.com. The lid I machined up from an Aluminum Plate on a Mill.
Regards
Anthony
what do you think
hi,
i noticed this link posted earlier but not much was said, i also think they sold their stuf at very low prices???
I was just wondering what people thought of this, i no very little about electronics so i cant tell whats good whats bad or what may be off use to this thread. Do we have any chinese??? speaking members in the forum that could help out, as bable fish is not the best, with this language:
this is the home page index page:
http://myweb.hinet.net/home4/penguin5/index_1.htm
hears the page with the info im interested in:
http://myweb.hinet.net/home4/penguin5/wastes/index.htm
and if youre lucky this link may take you to a bablefish translated page:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babe...web.hinet.net/home4/penguin5/wastes/index.htm
if not use babble fish hear : http://babelfish.altavista.com
Thanks
hi,
i noticed this link posted earlier but not much was said, i also think they sold their stuf at very low prices???
I was just wondering what people thought of this, i no very little about electronics so i cant tell whats good whats bad or what may be off use to this thread. Do we have any chinese??? speaking members in the forum that could help out, as bable fish is not the best, with this language:
this is the home page index page:
http://myweb.hinet.net/home4/penguin5/index_1.htm
hears the page with the info im interested in:
http://myweb.hinet.net/home4/penguin5/wastes/index.htm
and if youre lucky this link may take you to a bablefish translated page:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babe...web.hinet.net/home4/penguin5/wastes/index.htm
if not use babble fish hear : http://babelfish.altavista.com
Thanks
That has to be one of the most amazing pieces of translation I have ever seen Babelfish perform.
You might like to look at this link as well: www.rockna-line.com
You might like to look at this link as well: www.rockna-line.com
Well I have finally made it to the point where the housing is -almost- finished! All I need to do is polish it and put a laquer coating on it, and replace the scews with ones like torx or something.
I do have some questions about getting some parts in my housing:
how do I secure the cd pro mechanism to the top plate without the scews comming through the material?
My top lid -or upper caseplate- will hold the cd pro, My upper plate is about 4 mm thick, I don`t think I can cut a thread in there can I?
what about drilling holes with tread in the bottom to hold the transformes and prints etc. Will this effect the shielding? My housing is entirely of massive thick copper, will I spoil its charastaristics ?
How about rubber hinges for the prints? is it a good idea to have all the prints on rubbers or is it better to solidly attatch them to the bottem?
about the connectorsAnyone got advise on what cable to use for the connectors that are attatched to the cd pro? I use flatcable but that is not very good I think, Would silver wire be better? Or would that be nonsense and would normal awg 26 wire do just fine?
I have attached the old situation
, and the new housing .
I do have some questions about getting some parts in my housing:
how do I secure the cd pro mechanism to the top plate without the scews comming through the material?
My top lid -or upper caseplate- will hold the cd pro, My upper plate is about 4 mm thick, I don`t think I can cut a thread in there can I?
what about drilling holes with tread in the bottom to hold the transformes and prints etc. Will this effect the shielding? My housing is entirely of massive thick copper, will I spoil its charastaristics ?
How about rubber hinges for the prints? is it a good idea to have all the prints on rubbers or is it better to solidly attatch them to the bottem?
about the connectorsAnyone got advise on what cable to use for the connectors that are attatched to the cd pro? I use flatcable but that is not very good I think, Would silver wire be better? Or would that be nonsense and would normal awg 26 wire do just fine?
I have attached the old situation
, and the new housing .Attachments
Well usually you could use a bottom Tap to thread some blind holes, but 4 MM is no where near enought material for that.
I suggest you make a frame that fastens to the bottom plate and secure the drive to that. I would be concerened about the vibration a 4 MM plate that large would tramsmit to the drive anyway.
Regards
Anthony
Member
Joined 2002
Well I assume there will be screws in each threaded hole so it should have no effect on the EMI properties of your Chassis.
Regards
Anthony
I would use shielded cables where possible, and remember if you are using the I2s connection the cable length should be less than 20 CM total.
Regards
Anthony
In my experience it is not necessary. Sometimes it may be better, sometimes not.
On lesser players, taking the top cover off usually results in a better sound.
On lesser players, taking the top cover off usually results in a better sound.
Tnx for the replies. Although the cabinet seems quite sturdy, u might have a point about vibrations to the cd-pro, caused by the lenght of my top plate.. I could use maybe a middle strut of something, that should make it a lill` better. Maybe even isolating the whole cd pro might be an option, by building a box around it`s underside connected to the bottem of the player...
The frame is a good idea, and I`m glad to hear that the bottom isn`t a concern with holes in it.
I will try to post some better pictures of the housing... 😉
The frame is a good idea, and I`m glad to hear that the bottom isn`t a concern with holes in it.
I will try to post some better pictures of the housing... 😉
just learning some more about DIY transports, as was wondering if this transport is still considered one of the better ones available? also, who all makes kits these days? I've found one here:
http://www.diy-high-end.com/
Thanks!
http://www.diy-high-end.com/
Thanks!
Here are my experiences with the CD PRO (with a few other persons we evaluated different mechanisms for developing a transport):
The mechanism of de CD PRO is very good, altough not as perfect as the VRDS NEO, but you can't buy these for a sensible price (and the electronics of the VRDS probably limits it's capabilities).
The laser is ok, but unfortunately not balanced, which means that focus- and tracking corrections influence each other more than neccesary. The corrections introduce jitter that can't be removed. A cheap Sanyo laser does this better.
The weakest link is the circuit board, and I guess it's almost impossible to modify properly. The clock can be improved but there are far worse problems on this board: the 4-layer layout and it's components.
Btw: I notice many people focus on the clock, but usually there's more to gain elsewhere (solving hf problems, power supply, layout etc.). Besides that: most clocks we've evaluated introduced new hf-problems, new jitter in other parts of the spectrum. I think "Plug-and-play" clocks are a gamble, proper implementation is critical.
The mechanism of de CD PRO is very good, altough not as perfect as the VRDS NEO, but you can't buy these for a sensible price (and the electronics of the VRDS probably limits it's capabilities).
The laser is ok, but unfortunately not balanced, which means that focus- and tracking corrections influence each other more than neccesary. The corrections introduce jitter that can't be removed. A cheap Sanyo laser does this better.
The weakest link is the circuit board, and I guess it's almost impossible to modify properly. The clock can be improved but there are far worse problems on this board: the 4-layer layout and it's components.
Btw: I notice many people focus on the clock, but usually there's more to gain elsewhere (solving hf problems, power supply, layout etc.). Besides that: most clocks we've evaluated introduced new hf-problems, new jitter in other parts of the spectrum. I think "Plug-and-play" clocks are a gamble, proper implementation is critical.
Hi Void
I was contemplating building a new transport built on possibly CDPro2LF and your comments have just come in the nick of time to maybe re-evaluate the situation for me.
Do you feel CDPro2 is a huge leap over CDM12, say VAM1202 etc and what would be your preferred choice for a transport? Obviously, most people here have made transports with CDPro but I couldn't find any direct comparison with older pickups from Phillips. So it is very enlighening to read your comments on the subject, as until now the only proof of improvements has come from data published by phillips themselves.
Maybe I should stick to older players with CDM9 , which was my original plan.
Many thanks for yor input.
Regards
FibC
I was contemplating building a new transport built on possibly CDPro2LF and your comments have just come in the nick of time to maybe re-evaluate the situation for me.
Do you feel CDPro2 is a huge leap over CDM12, say VAM1202 etc and what would be your preferred choice for a transport? Obviously, most people here have made transports with CDPro but I couldn't find any direct comparison with older pickups from Phillips. So it is very enlighening to read your comments on the subject, as until now the only proof of improvements has come from data published by phillips themselves.
Maybe I should stick to older players with CDM9 , which was my original plan.
Many thanks for yor input.
Regards
FibC
My cdpro2 can't read properly cd that my computer can , so I think it is this focus problem the origin of it, there is a way to correct it?
CD PRO based player chassis
Hello,
I am looking for people that would like to sell me a chassis for a CD PRO player, like the one from Brain GT or a custom made, that do not matter me.
Urgent ! 🙂
You can contact me by email to discuss about shipping and selling price ...
Many thanks for all
Hello,
I am looking for people that would like to sell me a chassis for a CD PRO player, like the one from Brain GT or a custom made, that do not matter me.
Urgent ! 🙂
You can contact me by email to discuss about shipping and selling price ...
Many thanks for all
Please do tell me what the hype is over this CD PRO player as its the same player I have in my Rock-ola Bubbler Jukebox? I didn't hear anything out of the ordinary between it and my Marantz CD63SE. The Jukebox does sound good however and maybe that is because its housed in that big wooden enclosure.
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