Man, the aluminium stuff You do look really GEOURGOUS!!
Can`t wait to see this ready!!
Ever considered to do this (semi) proffessional and selling those enclosures to DIY audio folks who just don`t have the tools to do all this?
Excellent enclosures like this are absolutly not obtainable in the DIY audio market (at least I do not know a single source for something that even comes close to this).
Wow that is a great design! If I could, I would very much like to receive a 'schematic/diagram' of the cabinet you are making. I am about to buy the same cd drive from Daisy_laser, and was thinking of contacting a metal-shop to have a cabinet made for it. With your cabinet details/measurements, it would help a great deal.
Again, great work
Sture
sturebjorvig@hotmail.com
Again, great work
Sture
sturebjorvig@hotmail.com
You might believe it or not but everything I do is without drawings (kinda like Jocko)
. When I started doing that chassis I had some ideas how I wanted it but it changed along the way, depending on available materials and simplicity of construction. The base is 1/4" aluminum, the size of an average chassis. The rest is done from easily obtained aluminum extrusions (from Home Depot), already anodized, L type and 1.5 x 1.5" in size.
I might postt some drawing when I finish.
. When I started doing that chassis I had some ideas how I wanted it but it changed along the way, depending on available materials and simplicity of construction. The base is 1/4" aluminum, the size of an average chassis. The rest is done from easily obtained aluminum extrusions (from Home Depot), already anodized, L type and 1.5 x 1.5" in size. I might postt some drawing when I finish.
Already Anodized????
You know, I hadn't thought of that each time of bought/looked at the metal stock at Depot...
Are you saying that all of the Al that Depot and Lowes carries in those little bins is clear anodized???? Is this why the price is so high????
What's the easiest way to tell if something's got clear anodize on it????
Thx,
Steve
PS - The chassis looks stunning so far (as usual)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You know, I hadn't thought of that each time of bought/looked at the metal stock at Depot...
Are you saying that all of the Al that Depot and Lowes carries in those little bins is clear anodized???? Is this why the price is so high????
What's the easiest way to tell if something's got clear anodize on it????
Thx,
Steve
PS - The chassis looks stunning so far (as usual)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anodized aluminum has a different shine, it's more matte and doesn't have all those small scratches that "raw" aluminum has.
If you unsure bring a meter and check for conductivity. Anodized stock is not conductive.
In some instances it's convenient to use all those anodized angles that building suppliers carry.
If you unsure bring a meter and check for conductivity. Anodized stock is not conductive.
In some instances it's convenient to use all those anodized angles that building suppliers carry.
Initially those were the cases for SOZ but I might be tempted to put GAX in there. Will use the fans to increase the heat dissipation. The circuits would be mounted on both sides of heat sinks. Side and top covers would be added as well. The transformer is in a separate housing at the very bottom.
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OT: Chassis making
Peter,
Before going to the electronics, let me ask you a couple more questions about making chassis. How or what tools do you use to align the 2 metals sheets together so that when it's time to put the screws in, the metal sheets would line up perfectly? Do you:
(1) clamp the 2 metal sheets together and then drill the holes thru the 2 metal sheets?
(2) mark the metal sheets with some kind of offset distance from the edge for every holes on the 2 sheets and then drill?
(3) drill bigger holes on one sheet so that there is some leverage for a little adjustment if they don't line up?
(4) or what? I'm sure you know what I mean. I would appreciate pictures if you have it.
I presume you have some kind of special tools or some tricks that you use since the metal sheets in all your pictures line up perfectly. Please advice! Thanks.
Note:
You could respond to this in your other thread .... something like "useful tools & technique" or something like that.
Peter,
Before going to the electronics, let me ask you a couple more questions about making chassis. How or what tools do you use to align the 2 metals sheets together so that when it's time to put the screws in, the metal sheets would line up perfectly? Do you:
(1) clamp the 2 metal sheets together and then drill the holes thru the 2 metal sheets?
(2) mark the metal sheets with some kind of offset distance from the edge for every holes on the 2 sheets and then drill?
(3) drill bigger holes on one sheet so that there is some leverage for a little adjustment if they don't line up?
(4) or what? I'm sure you know what I mean. I would appreciate pictures if you have it.
I presume you have some kind of special tools or some tricks that you use since the metal sheets in all your pictures line up perfectly. Please advice! Thanks.
Note:
You could respond to this in your other thread .... something like "useful tools & technique" or something like that.
Fcel,
I'll bet he's using something like this...
There called Clecos and are very, very handy...
When you squeeze the pliers the point comes out of the Cleco and gets skinnier (you use the correct size for the hole that you've drilled). You stick the point through both pieces of metal and when you release the pliers the spring loaded point sucks the two pieces of metal together with a fair amount of force...
They're great because they align the holes perfectly while locking the different layers together for further work...
Have fun,
Steve
I'll bet he's using something like this...
There called Clecos and are very, very handy...
When you squeeze the pliers the point comes out of the Cleco and gets skinnier (you use the correct size for the hole that you've drilled). You stick the point through both pieces of metal and when you release the pliers the spring loaded point sucks the two pieces of metal together with a fair amount of force...
They're great because they align the holes perfectly while locking the different layers together for further work...
Have fun,
Steve
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Jim,
What you need to look for is a tool supply that specializes in tools for the aircraft industry...
The tools that are used tend to be very different than any other industry that I know of...
Check out these guys - I've never purchased from them but they seem to have a pretty good selection of stuff and the prices seem about right... Follow the "order online" button then check out the "sheet metal fasteners"...
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/
This stuff makes life sooooooo much easier...
Hope this helps,
Steve
What you need to look for is a tool supply that specializes in tools for the aircraft industry...
The tools that are used tend to be very different than any other industry that I know of...
Check out these guys - I've never purchased from them but they seem to have a pretty good selection of stuff and the prices seem about right... Follow the "order online" button then check out the "sheet metal fasteners"...
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/
This stuff makes life sooooooo much easier...
Hope this helps,
Steve
I cut thick aluminum with a mitre saw, see [url http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3981&perpage=15&pagenumber=2[/url]
I don't use a brake, whenever needed I use angles (usually from Home Depot). As to aligning, I always drill holes in one piece and then clamp it to the other piece and drill through. Usually drill the thicker part first. Although I use clecos at work, somehow I never felt the need to use them when doing my chassis. Probably because I use screws for fasteners and not rivets. However, you can try to use clecos and the best place to look for them is http://www.yardstore.com/.
So for me, clamps work the best and although I have quite a few of them my favourite are probably Quick-Grip brand from Home Depot.
I don't use a brake, whenever needed I use angles (usually from Home Depot). As to aligning, I always drill holes in one piece and then clamp it to the other piece and drill through. Usually drill the thicker part first. Although I use clecos at work, somehow I never felt the need to use them when doing my chassis. Probably because I use screws for fasteners and not rivets. However, you can try to use clecos and the best place to look for them is http://www.yardstore.com/.
So for me, clamps work the best and although I have quite a few of them my favourite are probably Quick-Grip brand from Home Depot.
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Cutting Surprise
I'm surprised that the miter saw running at 3500-rpm speed cut
so well. So a guess my sliding miter saw should work just fine.
Also what about 45 degree cuts. Well I have to now go buy a Non Ferrous metal blade now. So how fast does it cut compared to dense wood or MDF, and do you ever oil place where your cutting.
So what about face plates, do you make those also.
Thanks
I'm surprised that the miter saw running at 3500-rpm speed cut
so well. So a guess my sliding miter saw should work just fine.
Also what about 45 degree cuts. Well I have to now go buy a Non Ferrous metal blade now. So how fast does it cut compared to dense wood or MDF, and do you ever oil place where your cutting.
So what about face plates, do you make those also.
Thanks
It cuts metal about 2 or 3 times longer, but it all depends on the operator, how safe he wants to be and how accurate cut he wants to achieve.
I never put oil on the cut material, but the reason is to avoid too much mess, it might be helpful though.
I do faceplates as well and this is probably one of the better examples.
I never put oil on the cut material, but the reason is to avoid too much mess, it might be helpful though.
I do faceplates as well and this is probably one of the better examples.
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