Re: Progress report
Peter,
I have a few questions regarding your work in aluminum.
Do you have a preference in cutting aluminum. I have a table saw
a sliding compound chop saw and a bandsaw. So out of those
these three tools which to you reference.
I've tried cutting Aluminum on a table saw with a Hollow Ground
blade, no carbide tips. The table saw cut slow, needed a lot of lube, however the blade was not the best. On the other hand the bandsaw cut the aluminum like butter, however I was looking for a cleaner cut. So what are you recommendation's as which tool and blade works the best, leaving the cleanest cut. Or do
you allway sand or file your cuts.
Thanks
James
Peter Daniel said:
Peter,
I have a few questions regarding your work in aluminum.
Do you have a preference in cutting aluminum. I have a table saw
a sliding compound chop saw and a bandsaw. So out of those
these three tools which to you reference.
I've tried cutting Aluminum on a table saw with a Hollow Ground
blade, no carbide tips. The table saw cut slow, needed a lot of lube, however the blade was not the best. On the other hand the bandsaw cut the aluminum like butter, however I was looking for a cleaner cut. So what are you recommendation's as which tool and blade works the best, leaving the cleanest cut. Or do
you allway sand or file your cuts.
Thanks
James
I always sand the cutmaterial on 2" belt sander with a table.
My preference for cutting thicker stock is sliding compound saw ( I'm using 10" Makita with Freud "Non Ferrous Metal Blade"). In that way I cut 2x6 heaetsinks and square tubing. I'm using band saw to cut only sheet metal or for small cuts when I'm too lazy to go to the other saw. I never tried table saw for cutting aluminum. I also never had to use any lubricant.
For anything that doesn't fit my mitre saw I'm using that setup. I bought that table long time ago at Canadian Tire and although desined for wood cutting it works great with metals. I'm using 7.5" circular saw which can slide above the table. I clamp aluminum pieces to the table. I was cutting 1" thick aluminum pieces as well as 2" thick heat sinks without a problem. When a piece is thicker I do two or three runs to complete the cut.
My preference for cutting thicker stock is sliding compound saw ( I'm using 10" Makita with Freud "Non Ferrous Metal Blade"). In that way I cut 2x6 heaetsinks and square tubing. I'm using band saw to cut only sheet metal or for small cuts when I'm too lazy to go to the other saw. I never tried table saw for cutting aluminum. I also never had to use any lubricant.
For anything that doesn't fit my mitre saw I'm using that setup. I bought that table long time ago at Canadian Tire and although desined for wood cutting it works great with metals. I'm using 7.5" circular saw which can slide above the table. I clamp aluminum pieces to the table. I was cutting 1" thick aluminum pieces as well as 2" thick heat sinks without a problem. When a piece is thicker I do two or three runs to complete the cut.
Attachments
Peter Daniel said:
That's a Triton Mk3 Workcentre - made in Australia - see Triton web site !!! Now superseded by the Workcentre 2000. I have one too.
Nic
I've been very busy with gainclone lately, so I had to put the development of CD-Pro on a side. But I will be looking at it eventually, and if there is enough interest, we might do a sort of a group project.😉
Glad you're considering it!
It'll be good, looks like a real world beater! Count me in.
Thanks
Raj
It'll be good, looks like a real world beater! Count me in.
Thanks
Raj
Sorry... off topic...but can some one please tell me what is price for Burr-Brown PCM1704 and where is the chepest place to buy them ( I only nead 4 of them)...
Any one thinking about groop buy...
Thanks
Josip
Any one thinking about groop buy...
Thanks
Josip
Thanks Peter
So it's like 30USD ...I was hopeing that they are chiper ... whell they will have to weat a while ...
Josip
So it's like 30USD ...I was hopeing that they are chiper ... whell they will have to weat a while ...
Josip
Regular chip is about half of that and J grade price is in between. Here are the prices in USD. http://www.digikey.com/scripts/us/dksus.dll?Criteria?Ref=90529&Cat=31457924
assembly of cd pro2
Peter sorry to be a pain!
How difficult is it to put together a cdpro2?
Can I get the boards 'stuffed', ready to plug in and use?
I can solder etc, I've built kit amps before, and can put together components in a pcb, but I'm not good with schematics, so I'd have problems with the power supplies, how many power supplies are required and what voltages?
Can you suggest a 'fools' source for predesigned psu's that I could use and perhaps build as a kit?
Also are all the parts I need supplied, so that I can just plug in an external dac of choice and use, or are there other circuits and connections req'd also?
Thanks
Raj
Peter sorry to be a pain!
How difficult is it to put together a cdpro2?
Can I get the boards 'stuffed', ready to plug in and use?
I can solder etc, I've built kit amps before, and can put together components in a pcb, but I'm not good with schematics, so I'd have problems with the power supplies, how many power supplies are required and what voltages?
Can you suggest a 'fools' source for predesigned psu's that I could use and perhaps build as a kit?
Also are all the parts I need supplied, so that I can just plug in an external dac of choice and use, or are there other circuits and connections req'd also?
Thanks
Raj
Cd-PRo is very easy to put together. The display board comes preassembled and all you have to do is terminate the wires to connect everything and built suitable PS. Ps can be base on a chip so it's easy to built as well. The site that sells the unit also provide al the info regarding assembly and at least 2 PS suggestions. The link was somwhere in a thread.
Interested in a group buy
I'd certainly be interested in a group buy. As I remember over 25% of the cost was paper work and shipping. The group buy might make it a very attractive price. Also if someone has the know how one of the posted finished units had a liquid crystal display instead of the LED type and that might be a nice add on.
Here is the site
http://www.daisy-laser.nl/homeoptics/
I'd certainly be interested in a group buy. As I remember over 25% of the cost was paper work and shipping. The group buy might make it a very attractive price. Also if someone has the know how one of the posted finished units had a liquid crystal display instead of the LED type and that might be a nice add on.
Here is the site
http://www.daisy-laser.nl/homeoptics/
The biggest add on was shipping (around $70) and money transfer $30, plus paying duties. The unit itself is quite cheap at 220 Euro. I would not even recommend getting assembled display board, because it's quite simple to put together and static isn't such a big problem as they seem to present.
The problem with LCD display is that although might be cool it's not convenient, since it's hard to see from a distance. Unless you mount it on top like Lab 47 do and then it becomes totally useless.😉
The problem with LCD display is that although might be cool it's not convenient, since it's hard to see from a distance. Unless you mount it on top like Lab 47 do and then it becomes totally useless.😉
I see your point on the LCD
They charge about 85 for the display is that something that could be done a lot cheaper DIY?
That sort of electronics is completely beyond me.
Fritz
They charge about 85 for the display is that something that could be done a lot cheaper DIY?
That sort of electronics is completely beyond me.
Fritz
The Display isn´t LED it is a kind of tube display. The Display PCN is not only Display but also Microcontroller that recives from switches and/or infrared remote control comands and sends them to the CD transports in another format. And there is a display driver chip on the board, this is the main ESD sensitive part. I think you can´t save much on the PCB so use the readymade one.
I think I saved around $40 when I populated the board myself with my own parts. But the main advantage was that I could work with empty board when building the display housing and I didn't have to pay much attention to static discharge danger.
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