Well, I'm absolutely stuck, no idea why the drive doesn't spin and as no-one seems interested in helping, I guess I've got a dead CD player.
This is half the reason I fell out with messing with disc transports. Sometimes they wouldn't work just after taking the thing to pieces. Obviously something gets disturbed but testing a disc spinner isn't something I'm bothered to get into.
Hence the cdrom and external gubbins experiment I shall have together soonish .
My marantz cd5000 was a good base and sounded pretty good. And this cheap Pioneer 2750 dvd player too but granted it is annoying when a transport goes down.
Looking at this non reading DV717 I have realised that getting i2s into it is half the battle. Most of the psu rails are 'muted' by various transistors . Maybe beyond me but I may try wiring some power direct to the regs and see what happens. At the moment and for £25 the DV717 has provided me with a nice chassis if nothing else!
Hence the cdrom and external gubbins experiment I shall have together soonish .
My marantz cd5000 was a good base and sounded pretty good. And this cheap Pioneer 2750 dvd player too but granted it is annoying when a transport goes down.
Looking at this non reading DV717 I have realised that getting i2s into it is half the battle. Most of the psu rails are 'muted' by various transistors . Maybe beyond me but I may try wiring some power direct to the regs and see what happens. At the moment and for £25 the DV717 has provided me with a nice chassis if nothing else!
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Ian,
If you want to fix CD player hardware you should get a service manual and the appropriate test equipment. Tinkering around is not a reliable way to diagnose a complicated device.
If you want to fix CD player hardware you should get a service manual and the appropriate test equipment. Tinkering around is not a reliable way to diagnose a complicated device.
Yeah Jim, the mechanism is definitely the bugbear. I now have a total of three players sat here that won't read a disc.
So I'm following your lead and using a CD-ROM drive instead. I've got an IDE drive with a play button on the front, so I'm working on a PSU for it and have soldered a CS8416 receiver chip onto a PCB to be able to connect it to a DAC chip. I know the SPDIF out the back of the CD-ROM is 5v TTL level rather than the lover voltage SPDIF used by CD players, but according to what I've read on the forum, the CS841x receiver chips are perfectly happy with a 5v TTL signal. I also have a Chinese DIR9001 receiver board I could use, although I don't know if that will handle the 5v flavour of SPDIF.
I'm very keen to see how you get on with your project, for obvious reasons.
So I'm following your lead and using a CD-ROM drive instead. I've got an IDE drive with a play button on the front, so I'm working on a PSU for it and have soldered a CS8416 receiver chip onto a PCB to be able to connect it to a DAC chip. I know the SPDIF out the back of the CD-ROM is 5v TTL level rather than the lover voltage SPDIF used by CD players, but according to what I've read on the forum, the CS841x receiver chips are perfectly happy with a 5v TTL signal. I also have a Chinese DIR9001 receiver board I could use, although I don't know if that will handle the 5v flavour of SPDIF.
I'm very keen to see how you get on with your project, for obvious reasons.
I'm not very familiar with the different spdif signal types so cheers for making me aware of that. I am building up a Chinese AK4396 dac board that also includes the CS8416 receiver.
I've just taken delivery of this psu for the CD rom
￡17.17 12%OFF | High Current LT1084 OptPower Supply Fever Linear Power Supply Independent Rectifier 3-way Stabilized Product Board
High Current LT1084 OptPower Supply Fever Linear Power Supply Independent Rectifier 3 way Stabilized Product Board|Amplifier| - AliExpress
I know it isnt very DIY but it looked good for the money and time it will save me is precious.
I've just taken delivery of this psu for the CD rom
￡17.17 12%OFF | High Current LT1084 OptPower Supply Fever Linear Power Supply Independent Rectifier 3-way Stabilized Product Board
High Current LT1084 OptPower Supply Fever Linear Power Supply Independent Rectifier 3 way Stabilized Product Board|Amplifier| - AliExpress
I know it isnt very DIY but it looked good for the money and time it will save me is precious.
Please note that many cheap Chinese boards use fake LT1084 and LT1083. For some reason LT1083/4 have cult status in China so they are copied. Since I stock original ones I can compare and recently got a LT1083 that does not even resemble the original. Apparently it is important that stuff is as cheap as possible but that has an influence on quality somehow. You can not expect a good PSU for 20 Euro....Also note CS8416 is quite jittery.... It makes more sense to make use of the time one has to make well performing stuff as time and money lost are time and money lost 🙂 When possible avoid SPDIF and use I2S instead. This will mean that an internal DAC will be used and not an external one.
Or...maybe it is time to use the Ian Canada streamer (or low jitter solid state playback in general) and forget about optical mechanisms?!
Or...maybe it is time to use the Ian Canada streamer (or low jitter solid state playback in general) and forget about optical mechanisms?!
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Thanks for the input JP. All wise words. Indeed I bought this psu 'eyes open' knowing the 1084 is an expensive reg and possibly fake. They do state it as being removed from old equipment. We will see. I guess if it provides the current and doesn't burn up then we are good to go?! I shall try to roughly measure the ripple on the output .
This is just an interesting project for me. A legacy player for my discs isn't too important but sometimes is nice to put a silver plastic thing in a tray and press play.
The cd rom drive only has am spdif output. I have looked at the schematics of the chip in there to see if I can hack the i2s but as of yet haven't fathomed that out.
Granted most of the time when I switch over to my Rpi based streamer I do realise it sounds much better!
This is just an interesting project for me. A legacy player for my discs isn't too important but sometimes is nice to put a silver plastic thing in a tray and press play.
The cd rom drive only has am spdif output. I have looked at the schematics of the chip in there to see if I can hack the i2s but as of yet haven't fathomed that out.
Granted most of the time when I switch over to my Rpi based streamer I do realise it sounds much better!
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It looks like some of the Chinese LT1083/LT1084 are used, pulled from other equipment and put into new boards.
Used is preferable to fake.
I had a surprising experience today, I spotted a used Samsung blu-ray player for sale locally very cheap, Goggled it's service manual and it has an AK4396 in it, so I bought it.
In stock form it sounds really rather good, surprisingly good in fact.
I'm tempted to bypass the output stage and see how it sounds with just a pair of Russian PIO caps between DAC and RCAs.
I had a surprising experience today, I spotted a used Samsung blu-ray player for sale locally very cheap, Goggled it's service manual and it has an AK4396 in it, so I bought it.
In stock form it sounds really rather good, surprisingly good in fact.
I'm tempted to bypass the output stage and see how it sounds with just a pair of Russian PIO caps between DAC and RCAs.
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Ian I've been reading the 300 page thread on the Chinese AK4396 boards. Gave up after 100 some but I got the gist.
Indeed it being a differential output dac one can use either trafos or caps as output. Some prefer the active opamp based, others not. Worth a try.
I'm going to try some 600:600 trafos on the output of my Chinese job.
Indeed it being a differential output dac one can use either trafos or caps as output. Some prefer the active opamp based, others not. Worth a try.
I'm going to try some 600:600 trafos on the output of my Chinese job.
You made it further into that thread than I did, this is the info I gleaned, although there was a lot of contradictory back and forth about what worked:
I must have done something wrong as while I am getting music, it is at a very low level of volume. I soldered the wires to the negative outputs, maybe I should have used the positive ones - I didn't because it was more difficult to solder to those pads.
The problem is the board in the Samsung is SMD and trying to solder to tiny pads is tricky.
I've modified my Samsung BD player by removing four resistors and soldering on a couple of wires to a pair of 2.2uF caps then direct to a pair of RCAs.
I must have done something wrong as while I am getting music, it is at a very low level of volume. I soldered the wires to the negative outputs, maybe I should have used the positive ones - I didn't because it was more difficult to solder to those pads.
The problem is the board in the Samsung is SMD and trying to solder to tiny pads is tricky.
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I resoldered to the positive pins and now I'm not getting any sound at all, so I suspect that the little pads have become damaged. SMD boards are so difficult and annoying to work on. I'll try to solder direct to the pins of the DAC chip, if that doesn't work then I've got a broken player.
I must have failed to make the solder connections properly as I've redone them a third time and now it works, I get music at the normal volume and it sounds good.
I won't be making any further modifications to this player beyond the output stage bypass as soldering SMD boards if just too much hassle. For the 20 ukp it cost for the player and about 5ukp for the caps and RCA connectors, I think it's a worthwhile little project and it sounds pretty good too, good enough that I can take my time devising something else.
I won't be making any further modifications to this player beyond the output stage bypass as soldering SMD boards if just too much hassle. For the 20 ukp it cost for the player and about 5ukp for the caps and RCA connectors, I think it's a worthwhile little project and it sounds pretty good too, good enough that I can take my time devising something else.
Soldering SMD is pretty easy with a few appropriate tools, some kind of magnification and lighting, and a bit of practice.
Good you found something cheap and listenable.
Like the S2750 Pioneer I have for the cost it isnt worth the hassle messing with it. It sounds decent enough for the odd foray into CD
Like the S2750 Pioneer I have for the cost it isnt worth the hassle messing with it. It sounds decent enough for the odd foray into CD
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I'm surprised how good this blu-ray player sounds actually, compared to the Pioneer DV-737 which is a pretty good sounding device, it's a marked step up in clarity. There's no audible pop or noise at all when skipping between tracks, despite the absence of any muting circuitry. I must have got lucky with these 2.2uF T.S.E. caps, they were pretty cheap but sound great, I have some EPCOS 2.2uF polypropylene box caps and 2uF Russian MGB PIO caps that I could try instead, but I'm not going to bother as I'm rather happy with how these T.S.E. ones sound.
BD-P1500, tons of them on ebay for about 20 quid.
https://www.samsung.com/ca/support/model/BD-P1500/XAC/
https://www.samsung.com/ca/support/model/BD-P1500/XAC/
I've listened to a few CDs through the modded Samsung now and they all sound great, with one exception- a Wolfmother album, which for some reason, has a lot of crackling, the same disc plays flawlessly on my Pioneer DV-737. Every other disk I've tried in the Samsung sounds excellent though, so why the Wolfmother one doesn't is a mystery. Well, it sounds good, but the added crackling is very annoying.