Just found this thread as I near completing my own pair after about a month of building, its great to finally have some more information on the carrera's.
I decided to have a curved cabinet, which took a hell of a lot more time than if I'd have just gone with a regular cabinet, but I think it was worth it in the end. I built the speaker up layer by layer using a flush trim router bit, and have just started applying the veneer. My design has an integrated stand, which I made with some stainless steel tubing, and a matching base. I am using black anodised aluminium for the top of the bases as well as the front baffle. The rest will be finished in walnut veneer. Here's the progress so far...
I decided to have a curved cabinet, which took a hell of a lot more time than if I'd have just gone with a regular cabinet, but I think it was worth it in the end. I built the speaker up layer by layer using a flush trim router bit, and have just started applying the veneer. My design has an integrated stand, which I made with some stainless steel tubing, and a matching base. I am using black anodised aluminium for the top of the bases as well as the front baffle. The rest will be finished in walnut veneer. Here's the progress so far...
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I'm a big fan of zebra wood. I think it will look really good when you are done. I know someone finished a set of speedsters in a zebra wood veneer and it came out great.
Zman: I've listened to a pretty large variety of genres on the Carreras. Sometimes I'll wonder if the EL34 tubes or the speakers are a little bass light, but then I'll play something with electronic bass notes and they will dig right down. I feel like the Carreras just do a great job at reflecting what has been recorded. I haven't gotten to compare it on different amps to any real extent. I did play a little bit with the NAD D3020 and noticed that the sound stage size immediately shrank compared to the Bifrost/Elekit combo I normally use. I didn't get a lot of time to compare bass reproduction.
All in all, I really have been satisfied with the speakers. On the scale of diminishing returns I feel like they get me 95% of the way. I just don't have the budget to get the last little bit. I would love to compare them to a set of KEF LS50, but I don't know anyone with them, so that isn't likely to happen. I probably could have gotten a very nice used pair of the KEF for what I spent on the Carrera, so I feel like the comparison would be fair.
Zman: I've listened to a pretty large variety of genres on the Carreras. Sometimes I'll wonder if the EL34 tubes or the speakers are a little bass light, but then I'll play something with electronic bass notes and they will dig right down. I feel like the Carreras just do a great job at reflecting what has been recorded. I haven't gotten to compare it on different amps to any real extent. I did play a little bit with the NAD D3020 and noticed that the sound stage size immediately shrank compared to the Bifrost/Elekit combo I normally use. I didn't get a lot of time to compare bass reproduction.
All in all, I really have been satisfied with the speakers. On the scale of diminishing returns I feel like they get me 95% of the way. I just don't have the budget to get the last little bit. I would love to compare them to a set of KEF LS50, but I don't know anyone with them, so that isn't likely to happen. I probably could have gotten a very nice used pair of the KEF for what I spent on the Carrera, so I feel like the comparison would be fair.
In this case, standard screws should be fine if screwed into the face of the MDF. It is a good idea to drill a pilot hole, making sure that is no wider than the width of the screw shaft to maximise the strength.
I have been thinking about t-nuts, as the drivers are recessed and only 1/2" of MDF is left.
Personally, I would think 1/2" of MDF would be fine, however as long as you can find machine screws which will match the drivers, t nuts would work, although I'm not sure if they would be stronger, if even as strong as standard screws.
I would think something like the #8 coarse thread screws that Parts Express has would work well. T-nuts are a tricky thing, and you run the risk of not being able to remove your driver because the t-nut shredded the MDF. Just be sure to not tighten the screw too much, and like aidenfward said, drill a good pilot hole. It also helps to thread the screws before attaching the driver to 'pre thread' the hole. I'd try a few different drill bit sizes on a piece of scrap to get the right one.
T-nuts works (just)fine
What I don't see doin' its job is the crossover placed that way: better outside of the box.
Far better...than attaching it to the enclosure walls
What I don't see doin' its job is the crossover placed that way: better outside of the box.
Far better...than attaching it to the enclosure walls
I would like to know exactly what t he issue with the xovers is too ?
Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk
Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk
uh...nothing!
Just stick inside everything
You can't just make a statement like that then walk away. Why?
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