Mike,
I'm not sure if they would be good for crossovers. 5 watts may be a little light.
The few crossover networks I messed with had big honkin wirewounds in it.
Check out the link below for some interesting info on a speaker crossover upgrade.
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?rspkr&1164387495&read&3&zzlJadem6
Ned
I'm not sure if they would be good for crossovers. 5 watts may be a little light.
The few crossover networks I messed with had big honkin wirewounds in it.
Check out the link below for some interesting info on a speaker crossover upgrade.
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?rspkr&1164387495&read&3&zzlJadem6
Ned
Cheers Ned,
Very interesting. I read a siimilar write-up on the Dueland components before. Cant remember where though. The guy basically drew up a schematic of his existing components, and remade them from Dueland parts in an external case. Its basically the same thing I intend to do, but with less expensive components. Depending on the size of the coils I need I hope to be able to mount new parts on the existing board. I reckon its do-able, tight but though as the RTL board is tiny.
Tony Gee's site is amazing. Another good one here:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
Anyway this is off subject so I'll direct you, and anyone here whos interested to a thread I began a while ago:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php? s=&threadid=107268
Also here:
http://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=41991
RE: CA 640CV2.
Im thinking of adding a 5mm Alu plate to the bottom of the chassis and some nice feet. Should I go for the usual spikes or are there better alternatives?
Cheers, Mike.
Very interesting. I read a siimilar write-up on the Dueland components before. Cant remember where though. The guy basically drew up a schematic of his existing components, and remade them from Dueland parts in an external case. Its basically the same thing I intend to do, but with less expensive components. Depending on the size of the coils I need I hope to be able to mount new parts on the existing board. I reckon its do-able, tight but though as the RTL board is tiny.
Tony Gee's site is amazing. Another good one here:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
Anyway this is off subject so I'll direct you, and anyone here whos interested to a thread I began a while ago:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php? s=&threadid=107268
Also here:
http://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=41991
RE: CA 640CV2.
Im thinking of adding a 5mm Alu plate to the bottom of the chassis and some nice feet. Should I go for the usual spikes or are there better alternatives?
Cheers, Mike.
I used 15V regs instead of the 12V in the end. Running 12V got too hot, the regs run warm @ 15V anyway. The problem is the supply voltage is 21 - 22V + running all those opamps.
Have you felt how hot the 5V regs run!!!
Brent
Have you felt how hot the 5V regs run!!!
Brent
One on the clock supply will be good. Dac analog would also be good for BG STD.
Adding mass to the player will help
Lee.
Adding mass to the player will help
Lee.
Thanks. Looking at the pics from Brent. The clock supply has a 470uf in place. Will I be ok with the 220uf?
Thanks Brent.
So that leaves 1 more 220uf BG/std without a home. Is there anywhere else usfull for such a cap?
I'll be doing the chassis mod soon. Will probably bond the plate to the bottom with some strong glue, but first I'll drill out a few small holes in the plate so access can gained to the screws under the chassis if necessary. The reason behind bonding the plate rather than screwing it is that if its bonded its more effective at stopping the botton of the chassis - the thinnest part by the way - from resonating.
So that leaves 1 more 220uf BG/std without a home. Is there anywhere else usfull for such a cap?
I'll be doing the chassis mod soon. Will probably bond the plate to the bottom with some strong glue, but first I'll drill out a few small holes in the plate so access can gained to the screws under the chassis if necessary. The reason behind bonding the plate rather than screwing it is that if its bonded its more effective at stopping the botton of the chassis - the thinnest part by the way - from resonating.
Buy the Araldite superglue. You mix it together and it sets like a rock. I used it for fitting my oak feet to my cd and amps and it takes some removing.
Brent
Brent
Very nice Brent. I'd love to hear it.
Do you have any plans to mod the 640 further and will there be any pics?
Do you have any plans to mod the 640 further and will there be any pics?
Finnished my first speaker today!
Good results initially. Cant wait to get the CD sorted now!
Cheers,
Mike
Good results initially. Cant wait to get the CD sorted now!
Cheers,
Mike
Hi Brent.
What about adding 2 x 220uf to the clock supply then? obviously I'd drill the pcb and link the leads underneath, simmilar to how you did the PSU caps.
Mike
2X 220uF would work fine. Run it with 220uF first and then at a later date add a bigger cap and see if you notice a difference.
It sounds very good indeed, easily in the £1000 - £1500 region for sound quality. Makes the Naim CD5i we have here sound rather poor.
I'm not doing anymore work on this 640V2, it's one we are selling (brand new with level 2 mods).
Brent
It sounds very good indeed, easily in the £1000 - £1500 region for sound quality. Makes the Naim CD5i we have here sound rather poor.
I'm not doing anymore work on this 640V2, it's one we are selling (brand new with level 2 mods).
Brent
I do have a level 3 upgrade in the pipelines. This will no doubt include 2X Spower regs for DAC digital and an additional 30VA transformer to isolate the power rails even further + increasing the VA headroom on the original transformer.
P.S I have this brand new upgraded 640 up for sale if you know anyone who may be interested.
Brent
P.S I have this brand new upgraded 640 up for sale if you know anyone who may be interested.
Brent
Thanks Brent.
If I hear anything I'll let you know.
I installed the new components today.
I have copied your earlier mods exept adding a new clock and PSU Caps. I added 220uF to the DAC supply and a 220uF to the clock supply. Installed the 6 LM4562NA opamps and 10uf decoupling caps.
Initial listening is promising. There is a more 'live' feel to vocals and more detail. The Bass is more tuneful, better controlled. Definate improvements, will report again after a few days burn in.
Had a little accident and broke one of the pcb tracks while fitting an opamp socket. Fixed it by soldering a piece of wire in. Lesson learnt: dont try to force a component in , if it wont go, make sure all the solder is removed!
I will do the main psu caps in a couple of weks and also the remaining 2 DAC caps. Im going to try Panasonic FC, unless someone knows better? If cash is available I'll also fit 2 x low noise regs on the opamp supply.
Thanks for all of you for your help so far.
Pics here: click
If I hear anything I'll let you know.
I installed the new components today.
I have copied your earlier mods exept adding a new clock and PSU Caps. I added 220uF to the DAC supply and a 220uF to the clock supply. Installed the 6 LM4562NA opamps and 10uf decoupling caps.
Initial listening is promising. There is a more 'live' feel to vocals and more detail. The Bass is more tuneful, better controlled. Definate improvements, will report again after a few days burn in.
Had a little accident and broke one of the pcb tracks while fitting an opamp socket. Fixed it by soldering a piece of wire in. Lesson learnt: dont try to force a component in , if it wont go, make sure all the solder is removed!
I will do the main psu caps in a couple of weks and also the remaining 2 DAC caps. Im going to try Panasonic FC, unless someone knows better? If cash is available I'll also fit 2 x low noise regs on the opamp supply.
Thanks for all of you for your help so far.
Pics here: click
Nice pics. I particularly like the Audio Component Pet, lol.
Defo give the components time to run-in. Also, leave the player switched on even when not in use, Black Gates in particular really benefit from having a constant current running.
Glad you like the sound so far. I called into Brents place today and had a listen to that player he has modded. Sounds very good, great bass and fluid midrange.
Regards, Lee.
Defo give the components time to run-in. Also, leave the player switched on even when not in use, Black Gates in particular really benefit from having a constant current running.
Glad you like the sound so far. I called into Brents place today and had a listen to that player he has modded. Sounds very good, great bass and fluid midrange.
Regards, Lee.
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