I cant help but feel a little responsible for the this aa I did 'bite' when 'Simon' made his comments. Perhaps I (we) should have ignored him.
Can I say a big 'Thank you' to all (Brent, Tommo, SimontY) for all their help and enlightenment. I do intend to use your products, Im just having a good look at what else is available. I need to 100% certain that Im going to improve my CDP.
By the way: I decided to upgrade the opamps first rather than the output caps. I understand that using the LM4562 means I can do away with the caps alltogether?
Brent, do I need to change all 6 or just the 2 nearest the phonos? And can you advise about 'decoupling caps' for these opamps?
Can I say a big 'Thank you' to all (Brent, Tommo, SimontY) for all their help and enlightenment. I do intend to use your products, Im just having a good look at what else is available. I need to 100% certain that Im going to improve my CDP.
By the way: I decided to upgrade the opamps first rather than the output caps. I understand that using the LM4562 means I can do away with the caps alltogether?
Brent, do I need to change all 6 or just the 2 nearest the phonos? And can you advise about 'decoupling caps' for these opamps?
Hi Brent.
I just ordered a pair of LM4562 from you. Can you tell me which caps I need to order please?
I just ordered a pair of LM4562 from you. Can you tell me which caps I need to order please?
Cheers
You really need to change all 6 but the last two are a start. I fully recommend Black gates with the lm4562. I will need to double check the values and caps to remove / replace for this job.
Brent
You really need to change all 6 but the last two are a start. I fully recommend Black gates with the lm4562. I will need to double check the values and caps to remove / replace for this job.
Brent
Can anyone confirm that the opamps circled in the picture below, are the correct ones to change. (Brent, I will do the rest later) Also are the little grey caps either end of the opamp the ones that need changing to Blackgates? Finally the caps circled nearest the phonos: are these the coupling caps? Am I ok to remove them if im only changing 2 opamps?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Attachments
Mike
The final two opamps you will be changing are the middle two. The outer pairs are the filters. Yep remove the grey and green caps. Try them bypassed first and see if there are any strange noises when changing tracks etc. It should be ok as there is a relay for main muting.
Brent
The final two opamps you will be changing are the middle two. The outer pairs are the filters. Yep remove the grey and green caps. Try them bypassed first and see if there are any strange noises when changing tracks etc. It should be ok as there is a relay for main muting.
Brent
Here are the caps to change. C21 C91 are the main smoothers but are small and too far away from most of the opamps. Changing the small 47n for the 10uF BG brings big gains.
Best bet for you is to change the relevent 47n on the opamps you are changing first and also the two main smoothers.
C21 25V 1000uF XUNDA with 470uF 16v Black Gate STD
C91 25V 1000uF XUNDA with 470uF 16v Black Gate STD
C54 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C38 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C10 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C14 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C41 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C52 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C44 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C48 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C18 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C93 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C103 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C59 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
Brent
Best bet for you is to change the relevent 47n on the opamps you are changing first and also the two main smoothers.
C21 25V 1000uF XUNDA with 470uF 16v Black Gate STD
C91 25V 1000uF XUNDA with 470uF 16v Black Gate STD
C54 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C38 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C10 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C14 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C41 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C52 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C44 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C48 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C18 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C93 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C103 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
C59 47n Mylar with 16V 10uF BLACK GATE STD
Brent
Brent
Do you recommend any upgrades to the 1n4004 diodes (D1 D7 D9 D10)? I was thinking of swapping them for some Fairchild Stealth power diodes. What do you think?
Ned
Do you recommend any upgrades to the 1n4004 diodes (D1 D7 D9 D10)? I was thinking of swapping them for some Fairchild Stealth power diodes. What do you think?
Ned
LM4562, Diodes
I ordered 4x LM4562 by mistake.
I was only going to change the main pair by the phonos.
Any ideas what to do with the other 2?
Brent, I know you reccomend changing all 6, what would you do if you only had 4?
Any ideas about changing diodes? What difference does it make and is it worth it?
Cheers, Mike.
I ordered 4x LM4562 by mistake.
I was only going to change the main pair by the phonos.
Any ideas what to do with the other 2?
Brent, I know you reccomend changing all 6, what would you do if you only had 4?
Any ideas about changing diodes? What difference does it make and is it worth it?
Cheers, Mike.
Brent, I know you reccomend changing all 6, what would you do if you only had 4?
Order another 2😉
Changing the diodes in my Marantz players brought slight benefits. The sound seemed smoother and maybe a touch more detailed, but it wasn't night and day. Every little helps though.
The diodes on the digital supply are slightly more important I think.
Cheers, Lee.
The diodes on the digital supply are slightly more important I think.
Cheers, Lee.
Im not sure about diodes, Ive only ever done them in conjunction with other changes. I guess they make incremental changes that add up, but I sugguest you read what others have said by searching the forum.
Another thing is, I could only hear certain upgrades after upgrading my speakers, you just gotta try stuff.
good luck🙂
Another thing is, I could only hear certain upgrades after upgrading my speakers, you just gotta try stuff.
good luck🙂
Luke said:Im not sure about diodes, Ive only ever done them in conjunction with other changes. I guess they make incremental changes that add up, but I sugguest you read what others have said by searching the forum.
Another thing is, I could only hear certain upgrades after upgrading my speakers, you just gotta try stuff.
good luck🙂
Well said, that's exactly what I was trying to get at.
There are many more important upgrades to do that give greater benefits, but all the little tweaks here and there do add up.
Lee.
Hi all
Sorry for not replying - i've been moving house
The diodes are worth changing imho as you are all saying its the total sum of parts thats important hehe
Mike if you order another pair of opamps i'll not charge you delivery if that helps. The gains will be loads better than changing just the 2 final ones.
Brent
Sorry for not replying - i've been moving house

The diodes are worth changing imho as you are all saying its the total sum of parts thats important hehe
Mike if you order another pair of opamps i'll not charge you delivery if that helps. The gains will be loads better than changing just the 2 final ones.
Brent
Hi,
I would go for some kind of schottky barrier diode. The main thing you want to do with the diodes is minimize recovery noise, and as schottky diodes don't recover as such, they have no recovery noise. Something like a 1N5822 should be a good replacement.
Note though that schottky diodes generally have low allowable reverse voltages, the one above is rated for 40V. This should be fine on a CD player PSU, which is probably less than 20V, but you'll have to check.
Anton
I would go for some kind of schottky barrier diode. The main thing you want to do with the diodes is minimize recovery noise, and as schottky diodes don't recover as such, they have no recovery noise. Something like a 1N5822 should be a good replacement.
Note though that schottky diodes generally have low allowable reverse voltages, the one above is rated for 40V. This should be fine on a CD player PSU, which is probably less than 20V, but you'll have to check.
Anton
I have modded another 640 V2 and have taken a pic of the pcb HERE . The unit has lots of Black gate caps, 6x lm4563 and a C1 clock plus other ZLH caps on digital supply areas. The output caps are also bypassed.
The sound is so much more detailed and smooth, gone is that brittle edge along with the saggy bass which is now deep and taught.
Next I will fit the SPower regs onto the opamps supply to lift the player a level or two more.
Brent
The sound is so much more detailed and smooth, gone is that brittle edge along with the saggy bass which is now deep and taught.
Next I will fit the SPower regs onto the opamps supply to lift the player a level or two more.
Brent
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