Have no idea actually.
I have only used chipboard and MDF.
Built speakers for 40 years and never thought of trying other materials.
I guess I'll have to think again, it might be better if I'm lucky. I can only trust your advice. I have only seen a few boxes that are made of birch plywood but they are made by DIY and not among speaker manufacturers.
Maybe depends on the price.
I have only used chipboard and MDF.
Built speakers for 40 years and never thought of trying other materials.
I guess I'll have to think again, it might be better if I'm lucky. I can only trust your advice. I have only seen a few boxes that are made of birch plywood but they are made by DIY and not among speaker manufacturers.
Maybe depends on the price.
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Almost entirely. Lots of manufacturers use, or have used, plywoods, but commercial manufacturers are businesses: at the end of the day, they need to turn a profit & keep overheads down, so they tend to go with materials that are relatively inexpensive and consistent to work with for tooling etc.
My marble nero marquinia love is beyma 15”
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My apologies, I did not mean to imply this was your statement - it came earlier from an earlier other's post which I assumed we were discussing. In my interpretation, 'extreme' would relate to low frequency and very high output in PA terms which little metal hifi drivers cannot reproduce. Think along the lines of M-Force drivers and 100 000+ crowds...
A rather different field to anything on this particular forum, as I doubt many would use that sort of setup for home audio 😉 although as far as broad principles go, the fundamental material & construction properties don't change a great deal, it's just a question of different priorities.
No. They both do store energy, but boxes with holes try to keep things coherent — time & frequency, the time is at least a half-wavelength behind the mains, and this only in th elowest frequencies where we are less sensitivie to it. A BLH is worse, the delay sometimes being 2n+1 behind (with n>0), and some people do detect this and drives them nuts. Moreover the delayed signal, in a good loudspeaker, extends the FR downward smoothly, with a nice handoff from one to the other. The energy leakage coming out thru an MDF box is a chaotic, time-smeared mess, that buries small detail also coming out from the driver..
dave
True. Can be seen in the graphs here (ignore the first bit, it has been shown wrong): https://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/tlB/appendix/bradbury/index.html
But when you add (panel) damping you increase mass without increasing stiffness, lower the Q of any resonance. So as well as damping the material used counters the original goals of pushing any (potential) resonances up in frequency and keeping there Q tight (so that lots of continuous energy at a very specific smal frequncy range is ever supplied by the music).
So adding panel damping can actually make things worse.
I just trust in the natural damping of the quality plywood, and only damp for airapace resonances.
Note: important to keep in mind that airapce energuy has little to no affect on the cabinet above subwoofer frequencies (and at those frequencies specifically ballooning), we are primarily interested in energy getting to the box thru the driver basket.
dave
Actually nore energy. ALL of the energy coming off the back comes back to you as time-smeared sound. At all the frequencies. This is the particular “distortions” that make OBs a no-go for me. True that there is usually less “box” to ring, but on the other hand most are not all that structurally solid. A good OB has to be more than just the (open) baffle.
dave
I find it sad, that in Sweden, right next door to where they make some of the best plywood in the world, it is hard to obtain, whereas i can (fairly) easily obtain it althou it has had to come across an ocean.
When we started with standard BB it was similarily priced to MDF. Russian & Chinese BB quality moved us to a more premium ply which cost about 2x as much. A small cost compared to the other bits needed and way less than the labour.
dave
Putin-war.
Inflation up many %.
Plywood 4-6 times expansiv then MDF.
MDF double up.
Inflation up many %.
Plywood 4-6 times expansiv then MDF.
MDF double up.
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The swedish krone have lost a lot of value against euro and dollar.
Before 1 euro = 8 kronor. Now 1 euro = 11 kronor. Finnish have euro.
Before 1 euro = 8 kronor. Now 1 euro = 11 kronor. Finnish have euro.
With all this hand wringing about enclosure vibrations, & the measurements of box vibrations, concerns of re-radiation into the listening environment...has anyone taken those trick hyper-sensitive microphones...& placed them onto that obligatory coffee table one has right in front of your "special" listening couch? With extra volume levels, everything in your listening area is going to be set in motion, re-radiating their own sonic signature. ????
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
So, based on vague intuition and the prohibition on thick glue layers in CLD, it seems that the sand layer would damp more if the sand grains moved more laterally when the walls around the sand layer flexed. I think (vaguely) that if the sand is too thick, the granules won't move around as much.
However, ABS is not stiff enough to avoid needing concrete for a serious cabinet construction IMO.
The Young's Modulus for ABS is about 1/10 of concrete, much less than wood or MDF, even, and printing it with walls thicker than about 3mm is not practical in the first place, making stiffness one of the weakest attributes of an un-augmented 3D print.
I am curious about the possibility of a fluid-filled layer... intuitively it seems like there would be extreme losses between layers, and damping would be excellent? (or not?) Of course zero points for stiffness, but... anyone heard of water or oil-filled cabinets before?
Wood too, I used dry Portland cement for filler both for horn back cavity damping, mass loading.
No, but FWIW, etc., there was one DIYer that took my cement tweak up a notch to a bladder filled salt water solution that gave favorable reviews by his local peers, so see no reason ATM why it won't work in composite panel construction.