hmmm...
"Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /forums/showthread.php on this server."
Thats all i can see if i try to visit this site since yesterday 🙄
Not good news for me. So I'm using black-proxy for a while 😎
"Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /forums/showthread.php on this server."
Thats all i can see if i try to visit this site since yesterday 🙄
Not good news for me. So I'm using black-proxy for a while 😎
SimontY said:I got moderated
Sig was too long... clogging up threads... 2-3 lines max they say!!! "The man" took me down!
Squealed on you I did. 😀
They picked on me and I held up you and a couple others in defense.😉
A total sellout I am.
Hi all!
I have some very nice components on their way to me from Parts ConeXion!!!!
I need to sort this buzzing thing out before installing anything though. I suspect a dud resistor somewhere so I will check each one and replace.
Mike.
I have some very nice components on their way to me from Parts ConeXion!!!!
I need to sort this buzzing thing out before installing anything though. I suspect a dud resistor somewhere so I will check each one and replace.
Mike.
Hi Mike,
Sounds reasonable, it does.
Hi Mike, MJL21193, SimontY,
We are just trying to keep the place looking neater and easier to read. I think this does help in that regard. In no way are we singling anyone out in particular, so if you have a longer sig line, expect a request to shorten things up a little.
-Chris
Sounds reasonable, it does.
Hi Mike, MJL21193, SimontY,
We've always had that as a guideline. We hadn't enforced it that much as other issues were more demanding. However, more people have used much longer sig areas. This tends to greatly clutter up the threads visually, making them harder and more annoying to read though.
We are just trying to keep the place looking neater and easier to read. I think this does help in that regard. In no way are we singling anyone out in particular, so if you have a longer sig line, expect a request to shorten things up a little.
-Chris
)
Hi Mike,
Would you please take your sig lines down to a couple?
I like the smilies here also, but there is one I'd rather not have to use ...
I do have a question though. Why do some people list their audio system in their sig areas? I mean, I could fill a good part of a page I bet, but what is the purpose of this?
Does the list act sort of like bumper stickers on a car?
Mike, I'm not singling you out. There are many people who do this. On other sites, this practice is very widespread. I honestly don't see the point of any of this information traveling with you.
-Chris
Would you please take your sig lines down to a couple?
I like the smilies here also, but there is one I'd rather not have to use ...
I do have a question though. Why do some people list their audio system in their sig areas? I mean, I could fill a good part of a page I bet, but what is the purpose of this?
Does the list act sort of like bumper stickers on a car?
Mike, I'm not singling you out. There are many people who do this. On other sites, this practice is very widespread. I honestly don't see the point of any of this information traveling with you.
-Chris
Chris,
I was told 3 lines minnimum (by another mod) and three lines it is, in the smallest text possible. I like to show my system so others can see where Im at with my modding.
This is ok.
Whats yr system mate?🙂
I was told 3 lines minnimum (by another mod) and three lines it is, in the smallest text possible. I like to show my system so others can see where Im at with my modding.
This is ok.
Whats yr system mate?🙂
Hi Mike,
Well, your text is wrapping to 4 lines of small print on the average monitor. That's what we count.
There is talk of reducing the number to 2 lines. This because we know some people will attempt to push the limit and end up with more lines than the limit is. Like you have.
I have numerous systems at home. All reasonably good ranging from tube to solid state. Far more than the average person might be expected to have. For what it matters, brands range from Marantz, Luxman, Cyrus, Eico (tube), Carver, Fisher (tube), Denon and more. Most are separates, but there are some receivers in there along with two surround systems. Then there are the complete rebuilds and stuff made from scratch. Listing them all would take up way too much space and also be fairly pointless to my way of thinking.
If I have something really interesting going on, I'll post in a thread or start my own. I have built SymAsym amplifiers for example. Then there is my bench and all the gear on it too. There are a couple shots of it around here, and I've added to it since.
I'm beginning to think that the system list is more like listing your favorite performance upgrade parts as stickers on your car windows. Same idea.
-Chris
Well, your text is wrapping to 4 lines of small print on the average monitor. That's what we count.
There is talk of reducing the number to 2 lines. This because we know some people will attempt to push the limit and end up with more lines than the limit is. Like you have.
I have numerous systems at home. All reasonably good ranging from tube to solid state. Far more than the average person might be expected to have. For what it matters, brands range from Marantz, Luxman, Cyrus, Eico (tube), Carver, Fisher (tube), Denon and more. Most are separates, but there are some receivers in there along with two surround systems. Then there are the complete rebuilds and stuff made from scratch. Listing them all would take up way too much space and also be fairly pointless to my way of thinking.
If I have something really interesting going on, I'll post in a thread or start my own. I have built SymAsym amplifiers for example. Then there is my bench and all the gear on it too. There are a couple shots of it around here, and I've added to it since.
I'm beginning to think that the system list is more like listing your favorite performance upgrade parts as stickers on your car windows. Same idea.
-Chris
Ahh ok, I have a widescreen laptop. I'll change the sig line soon.
If I were adding Blackgate stickers to my Hi-Fi then yes. But in this context I think its just what it is:- People sharing their system details with others who might be interested. This is DIY Audio.com.....
Hey, sounds like you have some nice gear! Just out of curiosity, is any of your commercial gear modded in any way?
Mike.
O/T to anatech
Can you find a way to disable avatars, too? I usually surf here with prefs set to 'no sigs' and (my) images off. It's a lot easier to sort wheat from chaff that way.
Hurrah!
Can you find a way to disable avatars, too? I usually surf here with prefs set to 'no sigs' and (my) images off. It's a lot easier to sort wheat from chaff that way.
Hi Mike,
Studying good equipment can give you an appreciation of how good the engineering can be. It can also show you what is poor engineering. Improvement in sound quality and measured performance can often be made simply by optimizing an existing unit through the matching of some parts. Other times, circuit modifications must be carried out to correct the design. Always consider reliability in your upgrade work.
If you want to see how a good optimization of a design works, read the symasym thread. You will see how the board layout can have a large effect in performance. This is a big thread, but well worth reading through. You can see how things were changed and what effect the changes had. There are two companion threads, but the original one is the thread you want to start. The going further thread will expand on the original.
To give you some idea of the equipment I use, I have the choice between using a Marantz 3650 or SC-9, Luxman C-05, Nakamichi CA-7, Fisher 400-C or Eico HF-85 preamplifiers. There are others and some I'm working on from scratch.
Every one of these designs have good solid engineering behind them. For instance, seeing two transistors as a buffer or amplifier is not necessarily a bad thing, although a three transistor design is better. You have to become use to seeing and understanding the design, not so much the parts. Some 4 or 5 transistor buffer / amplifier designs can be pretty bad too, although they have the potential to be excellent.
Not all older op amps are bad either. The NE5534 and NE5532 can still hold their own against some newer op amps. So changing a part to a newer design will not always buy you what you think you are getting.
-Chris
Some has been with good results. Other items were received after being "audiophilized" and were improved by returning them to stock trim. Even a Marantz 2225 receiver can be made to sound amazing. I'm thinking of doing one of these for myself actually. In all cases, all parts used were from normal suppliers and did fit in the original mounting locations. Capacitors with very large bodies (compared to the original part) generally cause trouble by picking up noise, or injecting noise. It's very important to do rational upgrades and to recognize when you are at a practical limit. Never do anything you can't go back from.
Studying good equipment can give you an appreciation of how good the engineering can be. It can also show you what is poor engineering. Improvement in sound quality and measured performance can often be made simply by optimizing an existing unit through the matching of some parts. Other times, circuit modifications must be carried out to correct the design. Always consider reliability in your upgrade work.
If you want to see how a good optimization of a design works, read the symasym thread. You will see how the board layout can have a large effect in performance. This is a big thread, but well worth reading through. You can see how things were changed and what effect the changes had. There are two companion threads, but the original one is the thread you want to start. The going further thread will expand on the original.
To give you some idea of the equipment I use, I have the choice between using a Marantz 3650 or SC-9, Luxman C-05, Nakamichi CA-7, Fisher 400-C or Eico HF-85 preamplifiers. There are others and some I'm working on from scratch.
Every one of these designs have good solid engineering behind them. For instance, seeing two transistors as a buffer or amplifier is not necessarily a bad thing, although a three transistor design is better. You have to become use to seeing and understanding the design, not so much the parts. Some 4 or 5 transistor buffer / amplifier designs can be pretty bad too, although they have the potential to be excellent.
Not all older op amps are bad either. The NE5534 and NE5532 can still hold their own against some newer op amps. So changing a part to a newer design will not always buy you what you think you are getting.
-Chris
Hi Martin,
I find huge quotes from posts close by more distracting. The avatars are off to the side and restricted in size. Personally, I find the animated avatars distracting.
Avatars do have a practical benefit to everyone though. If you are looking for a post from a particular member, it's sometimes easier to scan for that person's avatar, making their posts easier to find while scanning.
There are no plans to disallow avatars. I'm just one member from many.
-Chris
Yes, but ... but .. I really like my Martian.
I find huge quotes from posts close by more distracting. The avatars are off to the side and restricted in size. Personally, I find the animated avatars distracting.
Avatars do have a practical benefit to everyone though. If you are looking for a post from a particular member, it's sometimes easier to scan for that person's avatar, making their posts easier to find while scanning.
There are no plans to disallow avatars. I'm just one member from many.
-Chris
Hi.
Had an email from Stan Curtis today. For those who dont know who he is, he was involved in design for Cambridge Audio a few years back. He found my posts on PFM and was curious that the 340A uses ic's for amplification, earlier CA amps used transistors. I sent him the manual to mull over. It will be interesting to see what he recommends to improve it. I sent him a link to this thread also so hopefully he'll post here.
My new sexy components should be with me early next week! Motvation to find the cause of the buzz I have then! One thing I havent done is maticulously remove and check every resistor. Painstaking I know but it needs to be done. When Ive sorted it I'll start installing the new components, but I'll leave the FB cap till last. As I understand it this has a significant effect on the SQ so I'll be trying lots of different caps here.
Mike.
Who wants to know what goodies I have ordered?
Had an email from Stan Curtis today. For those who dont know who he is, he was involved in design for Cambridge Audio a few years back. He found my posts on PFM and was curious that the 340A uses ic's for amplification, earlier CA amps used transistors. I sent him the manual to mull over. It will be interesting to see what he recommends to improve it. I sent him a link to this thread also so hopefully he'll post here.
My new sexy components should be with me early next week! Motvation to find the cause of the buzz I have then! One thing I havent done is maticulously remove and check every resistor. Painstaking I know but it needs to be done. When Ive sorted it I'll start installing the new components, but I'll leave the FB cap till last. As I understand it this has a significant effect on the SQ so I'll be trying lots of different caps here.
Mike.
Who wants to know what goodies I have ordered?
I fitted the Mundorf M-Caps, MUR860 diodes, and BG's today. Hoped that I might get lucky and cure the buzz buy happening to replace a faulty component. Not so lucky this time.
Anyway fired her up and played some tunes. Quite surprising how much difference there is. I'll give it a couple of days to bed in before I let you know how amazing the improvements are. 😉
On the way from good 'ol USA are:
Caddock resistors.(input & Feedback)
Riken resistors (love the gold leads).
Kiwame resistors. (output)
BG N Caps. (opamp local decoupling)
Oscons Caps. (Selector is local decoupling)
Kimber 8TC. (output re-wiring)
And from DIYHi-Fi.co.uk a set of CMC pure copper binding posts.
The BG's were a tight fit and the Diodes needed to be mouted at an angle to fit them in.
(The 2 small capacitors ner the front and in the left are local supply decoupling for the poweramp chips. I have installed 'Blackgate STD' 100uF / 50v here. The 2 main caps at the top of the photo are the main power supply smoothing caps.I have fitted 'Mundorf M-Lytic' 10'000uF / 50v caps here. On the right of hte main smoothers are MUR860 Diodes.)
(Another view of the big Mundorfs and the MUR860 Diodes.)
Mike. 🙂
Anyway fired her up and played some tunes. Quite surprising how much difference there is. I'll give it a couple of days to bed in before I let you know how amazing the improvements are. 😉
On the way from good 'ol USA are:
Caddock resistors.(input & Feedback)
Riken resistors (love the gold leads).
Kiwame resistors. (output)
BG N Caps. (opamp local decoupling)
Oscons Caps. (Selector is local decoupling)
Kimber 8TC. (output re-wiring)
And from DIYHi-Fi.co.uk a set of CMC pure copper binding posts.
The BG's were a tight fit and the Diodes needed to be mouted at an angle to fit them in.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
(The 2 small capacitors ner the front and in the left are local supply decoupling for the poweramp chips. I have installed 'Blackgate STD' 100uF / 50v here. The 2 main caps at the top of the photo are the main power supply smoothing caps.I have fitted 'Mundorf M-Lytic' 10'000uF / 50v caps here. On the right of hte main smoothers are MUR860 Diodes.)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
(Another view of the big Mundorfs and the MUR860 Diodes.)
Mike. 🙂
Looking good Mike! The M-Lytic caps are great, and they go against the standard audiophile rule that bigger (physical dimension) electrolytics are better, which makes them convenient for cramming big smoothing in.
The BG standard aren't technically anything special (according to various graphs I've seen
) but I like their smooth / silky sound, in moderation.
You've inspired me to get the iron going - off to go and do some upgrades on one of my cd players!!
Simon
The BG standard aren't technically anything special (according to various graphs I've seen
) but I like their smooth / silky sound, in moderation.You've inspired me to get the iron going - off to go and do some upgrades on one of my cd players!!
Simon
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