mikesnowdon said:
Didn't you say you ordered this from Parts Connexion? They are here in Canada, not the good ol USA. 😉
There is a difference.
They are actually the same value as the stock CA caps (10'000uF 50v) but physically smaller. Dia is the same but they are about 5mm shorter. I could have fitted the 15'000 uF but opted to keep to the values CA selected.
Oops!
I totally didnt realize! Sorry. Mike.
(PS: Just been listening, HF seems a tad more extended, bass deeper, more detail seperation. I'll evaluate properly after a couple of days)
The godies arrived from PartsconeXion today!
I need ideas on how best to use the Kimber 8TC for the ouput re-wiring?
Mike.
I need ideas on how best to use the Kimber 8TC for the ouput re-wiring?
Mike.
cables that put mechanical stress on solder junctions are a absolute 'no go'.mikesnowdon said:
Also cables with large diameters in general are not useful, they give bad solder junctions with the comparative small eyelets on the pcb and soldering them requires often more heat than the thin pcb tracks can stand.
I would suggest 0,5-0,75mm2 multi-stranded speaker wire for such reworks.
Those with soft, transparent insulation are easy to bend and don't put to much shearing forces on solder junctions.
Tinning and soldering them is not very difficult.
regards
Vilen Danke Juergen.
I am trying to source a pair of PCB connectors with screw terminals, pefferably top entry. Gold plated would be nice.....
Mike
I am trying to source a pair of PCB connectors with screw terminals, pefferably top entry. Gold plated would be nice.....
Mike
so you don't wan't to rewire the whole route from chipamp to the binding posts anymore?mikesnowdon said:
Sorry, I'm not up to date with this thread.
😱
regards
The binding posts are PCB mount and the sig and return both go directly to the PCB.
I was originally going to move the resistor on the output to inside the coild and use the vacant hole to wire in some cable directly to the binding post. Got it?
I still want to do this. However, the Kimber is chunky so I'd rather not attempt to solder it directly to the PCB. Understand?
This is why I am looking for 'a pair' (1 per chip) of screw terminals to solder in where the resistor would be.
All clear now?
😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I was originally going to move the resistor on the output to inside the coild and use the vacant hole to wire in some cable directly to the binding post. Got it?
I still want to do this. However, the Kimber is chunky so I'd rather not attempt to solder it directly to the PCB. Understand?
This is why I am looking for 'a pair' (1 per chip) of screw terminals to solder in where the resistor would be.
All clear now?
😀
Hi Mike,
For such a short (internal) run I'd be inclined to use a single strand or two of the 8TC. I used parts of Kimber 4VS for ground wiring in my pre-amp and cd player and it works really well (sound and ease of use).
Simon
For such a short (internal) run I'd be inclined to use a single strand or two of the 8TC. I used parts of Kimber 4VS for ground wiring in my pre-amp and cd player and it works really well (sound and ease of use).
Simon
Yes, I didnt realize how fat it is! I wish I had bought 2ft of 4TC instead. I'll split it and twist together.
Any idea where to get those PCB screw terminals? The ones that accept bare wire?
Any idea where to get those PCB screw terminals? The ones that accept bare wire?
Another connection isn't going to help sound quality. See if you can solder it in directly... just a couple of strands of 8TC won't stress the board if you're careful.
Don't worry about the spare 8TC - put top quality RCAs on it and use it as an interconnect (~£200 level of interconnect).
Simon
Don't worry about the spare 8TC - put top quality RCAs on it and use it as an interconnect (~£200 level of interconnect).
Simon
I only got a foot of it, good idea though. 😉 Ill use the left over for some sexy jumper wires on my speakers. 😀
Have you considered putting on good quality RCA input sockets for your main/CD source? You'd want to use a strand of the 8TC to plumb that in too. It might make pcb removal a 'mare so could be a final mod... one to do after the bypass of the other gubbins you had planned.
Simon
Simon
I'll give it a try! 😀mikesnowdon said:
I don't think the resistor via will support the screw terminal.
It would take a really decent pad or via for such a terminal, because the terminal does not isolate the pcb from the cable.
The pad and solder junction will still have to deal with the cables forces and need therefore be rather large.
Still a flexible cable is better with screw terminals, than a rigid one.
A 0,75mm2 wire has a slightly larger cross section area than a 20mm wide pcb track.
This is not bad at all. So I stick to my recommendation.
Maybe single strands of the Kimber cable do work for you, I can't judge from here.
regards
The idea was to glue the terminal to the top side of the PCB. Then solder the bottom, if you know what I mean?
Simon raised the point of trying not to have too many joints,m a good one. So I think I'll scrap the idea and just solder the wire in to the PCB.
Mike.
I've found that if you solder the right wire in the right place then disassembly can be made easy by de-soldering the wires each time (hopefully not many more times - we don't want the traces cracking etc.)
Simon
Simon
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