measure the DC at the output of the buffer opamps.
I see from post417 that the SE has no DC blocking at the input.
But has retained DC blocking at the buffer.
Removal of the power amp DC blocking will allow buffer offset to enter the power amp.
Removal of the NFB DC blocking will allow the power amp to multiply any offset presented to it's input, plus/minus it's own offset.
I see from post417 that the SE has no DC blocking at the input.
But has retained DC blocking at the buffer.
Removal of the power amp DC blocking will allow buffer offset to enter the power amp.
Removal of the NFB DC blocking will allow the power amp to multiply any offset presented to it's input, plus/minus it's own offset.
There are DC blocking caps at each input RCA. At preamp 'buffer' input. Between preamp buffer and pots. Before powerchips (LM3886). and of course there is a cap to ground in the feedback.
I have measured DC offset at the output of the preamp buffer (with LM4562) and it was very low. I cant remember the exact figure but it was mentioned earlier.
I have measured DC offset at the output of the preamp buffer (with LM4562) and it was very low. I cant remember the exact figure but it was mentioned earlier.
Just leave the one before power chips and get rid of the rest.
My system has coupling/blocking caps in these places:
* each source (otherwise you get noisy volume pot)
* none in preamp needed
* each power amp
This seems like as low as you can practically go without some kind of trade-off or problem.
Simon
Alternatively none in sources but one in the preamp would be fine I think.
My system has coupling/blocking caps in these places:
* each source (otherwise you get noisy volume pot)
* none in preamp needed
* each power amp
This seems like as low as you can practically go without some kind of trade-off or problem.
Simon
Alternatively none in sources but one in the preamp would be fine I think.
Im running LM4562 in my CDP so theres no DC blocking caps there. I'll have to do some experimenting and measuring but I suspect I will be fine with just 1 cap per channel before the input buffer (preamp).
Airlink transformers have quoted me £63.83 .(inc shipping) for a custom trafo.
300VA 22-0-22 (ct) with dual secondaries 17-0-17, potted. Thats a drop-in replacement for the stock 340A trafo. Dimensions are 60*110mm.
Its a bit pricey but its bespoke for the 340A, should I go for it?
Mike.
300VA 22-0-22 (ct) with dual secondaries 17-0-17, potted. Thats a drop-in replacement for the stock 340A trafo. Dimensions are 60*110mm.
Its a bit pricey but its bespoke for the 340A, should I go for it?
Mike.
Some here claim it can't possibly change the sound, others will claim otherwise. What do you want from the change and is a slight improvement worth £64?
(Price seems good for a one-off custom job.)
Simon
(Price seems good for a one-off custom job.)
Simon
I would like to see (hear) what the SQ is like with the input switching ic bypassed first. If this and the other component swaps are giving me really good sound then I'd say its worth going for the trafo.
Theres also the super quiet PFM teddyregs to build and install on the preamp section.
My TDL's like good power and while I understand a bigger trafo wont give me more watts, it should enable the chips to deliver more current, no? Also the added headroom is supposed to improve the bass. The 840A I tried has a massive trafo and that sounded very smooth and effortless (4 Sanken chips per channel).
Theres also the super quiet PFM teddyregs to build and install on the preamp section.
My TDL's like good power and while I understand a bigger trafo wont give me more watts, it should enable the chips to deliver more current, no? Also the added headroom is supposed to improve the bass. The 840A I tried has a massive trafo and that sounded very smooth and effortless (4 Sanken chips per channel).
2pair of Sankens is a completely different amplifier from the chipamp.mikesnowdon said:The 840A I tried has a massive trafo and that sounded very smooth and effortless (4 Sanken chips per channel).
It's only guessing where the improved SQ came from.
Current x voltage = power so yes it will give more headroom / potential power. I'm pretty sure it will also sound better.
I think you're right to go for the other mods first though.
Simon
I think you're right to go for the other mods first though.
Simon
AndrewT said:
2pair of Sankens is a completely different amplifier from the chipamp.
It's only guessing where the improved SQ came from.
Of course.
4 Sanken's (might be 5 IIRC) per channel is a different beast alltogether, not to mention the guarded 'Claass XD' technology.
I liked it but for the lack of dynamics. Apparently the 840A V2 is better.
I don't know if you know Lee/Thomo very will Mike, but I know he once made an LM3886 chip amp and experimented with double transformers. He said he got much better bass from doing it. Brent/Rowey also doubled up in his Marantz PM66KI and I know well what that sounds like - impressive!!! He suspects the output power of his amp went up quite a lot (also due to smoothing caps) because the rail voltage rose by a few volts and the current available obviously shot up. But then he also upgraded the transistors and heatsinking lol
Hi
What can You say about using these Caps as decoup. ?
NICHICON MUSE KZ Audio Grade 10uF 100V
NICHICON MUSE FW Audio Grade 10uF 63V
I'm planning to stay only two caps - before the op.amp and before the LM. Other will be shorted. Of cource it better to use some film caps, as Mundorf, but they are so big, and if i solder them, there will be long legs, which isn't good for SQ as i know...
What can You say about using these Caps as decoup. ?
NICHICON MUSE KZ Audio Grade 10uF 100V
NICHICON MUSE FW Audio Grade 10uF 63V
I'm planning to stay only two caps - before the op.amp and before the LM. Other will be shorted. Of cource it better to use some film caps, as Mundorf, but they are so big, and if i solder them, there will be long legs, which isn't good for SQ as i know...
These might also be worth considering.
As far as I know, Bg N are the best lytic caps and come very close to polypropylene. I dont know this from experience, its just what I have heard.
The Nichicon will definately sound better than the cheap caps allready there, and having less caps in the signal path is good too.
As far as I know, Bg N are the best lytic caps and come very close to polypropylene. I dont know this from experience, its just what I have heard.
The Nichicon will definately sound better than the cheap caps allready there, and having less caps in the signal path is good too.
SimontY said:I don't know if you know Lee/Thomo very will Mike, but I know he once made an LM3886 chip amp and experimented with double transformers. He said he got much better bass from doing it. Brent/Rowey also doubled up in his Marantz PM66KI and I know well what that sounds like - impressive!!! He suspects the output power of his amp went up quite a lot (also due to smoothing caps) because the rail voltage rose by a few volts and the current available obviously shot up. But then he also upgraded the transistors and heatsinking lol
Yeah I know Lee. Hes been in touch to give advice on this project. Im also familliar with Brent. Super bloke, he's given me a lot of free advice too. I'd love to hear his system, bet it sound's 'the dogs' 😀
Mike, BG are too expensive for me...
P.s. I didn't understand your post about post. You think they can be delivered from Britain to Siberia so fast? He-he only with military post 😀
So who else can comment my question about caps?
P.s. I didn't understand your post about post. You think they can be delivered from Britain to Siberia so fast? He-he only with military post 😀
So who else can comment my question about caps?
I've never heard those but I think the general audiophile consensus is that Nichicon MUSE are good caps. BG standard, Elna Cerafine, Rubycon ZL and ZA are all ones I've enjoyed personally as bypass caps. Panasonic FC seem to sound a bit harsh, so I couldn't fully recommend those ones, popular as they seem.
Simon
Simon
Hey Stream.
I dont mind helping. Let me know what you need, I'll see how much it is in the UK, tell you the price in EUR, and post it to you recorded delivery. It might work out cheaper? Theres also group buys which can save you money.
I would suggest trying Wima MKS2-XL. They are radial lead polycarbonate film caps and sound quite good I think. Theyre also really cheap. I reckon for the money they will work really well and should sound much better than the cheap Lytics. Another option is to use some decent lytic caps, nothing too expensive, and bypass them with a small value polycarbonate film cap, or even a small polyproplyle.
My girlfreind is from Latvia so she knows all about the post in the Baltic states. She posted your caps and Diodes today, by Royal Mail recorded delivery.
Mike.
I dont mind helping. Let me know what you need, I'll see how much it is in the UK, tell you the price in EUR, and post it to you recorded delivery. It might work out cheaper? Theres also group buys which can save you money.
I would suggest trying Wima MKS2-XL. They are radial lead polycarbonate film caps and sound quite good I think. Theyre also really cheap. I reckon for the money they will work really well and should sound much better than the cheap Lytics. Another option is to use some decent lytic caps, nothing too expensive, and bypass them with a small value polycarbonate film cap, or even a small polyproplyle.
My girlfreind is from Latvia so she knows all about the post in the Baltic states. She posted your caps and Diodes today, by Royal Mail recorded delivery.
Mike.
Mike, now it's clear about post 🙂 I think I'll get Panasonic FC\FM and some decoupling caps at the end of December...
BTW, I found Black Gate STD 16V 10 uF for only 2$ in Russia. Do you think they worth trying?
BTW, I found Black Gate STD 16V 10 uF for only 2$ in Russia. Do you think they worth trying?
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