Tuborg and Carlsberg taste the same, it's often claimed they come from the same tanks....
I'll recommend something else, Denmark have a lot of great micro breweries....
Yes, try Mikkeller, Amager, To Øl, Bøgedal, Evil Twin.. and many more. The danish eurolager is kind of the same (crap) as all other eurolager.
Ok, I guess I need some advice. I built the Soekris 1121 as a pure USB Dac, fed by 3 Salas shunts for the 3 voltages, which are spot on 5V each.
I use the SK Lite interface and an USB board from Diyinhk; also tried my trusted Waveio. The SK lite shows everything it should, it is possible to set volume and filters.
When I switch on the Dac, the LED is blinking, SK Lite says "unlock", and it stays like that until I start to play a file with my laptop. Then the LED switches off, and, you guess it, no sound.
When I connect my laptop, both the USB boards are accepted by the laptop and the title plays. So it is not a broken USB board. I checked all connections for continuity, and if the wiring is correct. Not only once
I connected:
both VCC5D, CFG0 and the 3 I2Sdat0 to ground by 3.3kohm.
En_aud is not connected, but I did first, and then removed the resistor.
The I2s cables are 10cm long.
I managed to connect to Umanager and have this output:
R1.09
M1
I3
L000
F5
PN
V+00
I3
Umanager reacts to all commands, so the dac board seems to be funktional.
Pretty much stuck at that place, any idea where to look?
I am dying to try that thing...
I use the SK Lite interface and an USB board from Diyinhk; also tried my trusted Waveio. The SK lite shows everything it should, it is possible to set volume and filters.
When I switch on the Dac, the LED is blinking, SK Lite says "unlock", and it stays like that until I start to play a file with my laptop. Then the LED switches off, and, you guess it, no sound.
When I connect my laptop, both the USB boards are accepted by the laptop and the title plays. So it is not a broken USB board. I checked all connections for continuity, and if the wiring is correct. Not only once
I connected:
both VCC5D, CFG0 and the 3 I2Sdat0 to ground by 3.3kohm.
En_aud is not connected, but I did first, and then removed the resistor.
The I2s cables are 10cm long.
I managed to connect to Umanager and have this output:
R1.09
M1
I3
L000
F5
PN
V+00
I3
Umanager reacts to all commands, so the dac board seems to be funktional.
Pretty much stuck at that place, any idea where to look?
I am dying to try that thing...
I’m assuming the LED that switches off is on the AZ board. Don’t have one of those but is that what is supposed to happen?
Which DIYINHK USB board do you have? One of their earlier boards draws around 800ma and if you’re using the AZ Lite to power it the AZ only does 200ma at 3v3 according to post 1 in audiozen’s thread.
Can’t remember if M1 is the stereo setting....maybe someone with a better memory can confirm....
I have a working 1121, later tonight I’ll disconnect it’s serial lines and hook them to a terminal program and see what mine says on bootup.
Which DIYINHK USB board do you have? One of their earlier boards draws around 800ma and if you’re using the AZ Lite to power it the AZ only does 200ma at 3v3 according to post 1 in audiozen’s thread.
Can’t remember if M1 is the stereo setting....maybe someone with a better memory can confirm....
I have a working 1121, later tonight I’ll disconnect it’s serial lines and hook them to a terminal program and see what mine says on bootup.
No, it is the status LED of the DAM board. Thats from the manual:
5 PWR_LED Output OC Active low, blinking when unlocked, on when locked.
Don't know what "active low" means though. In the DAM 1021 it is an SMT type on board, here we have to connect an external LED to Pin5 of J2.
The manual for the Diyinhk says 200 mA:
XMOS 384kHz DXD DSD256 high-quality USB to I2S/DSD/SPDIF PCB - DIYINHK
I think M1 is Master stereo, was also suspicious about that one.
Thats why I sometimes hate digital audio. You can not see anything wrong like when a valve is redplating
5 PWR_LED Output OC Active low, blinking when unlocked, on when locked.
Don't know what "active low" means though. In the DAM 1021 it is an SMT type on board, here we have to connect an external LED to Pin5 of J2.
The manual for the Diyinhk says 200 mA:
XMOS 384kHz DXD DSD256 high-quality USB to I2S/DSD/SPDIF PCB - DIYINHK
I think M1 is Master stereo, was also suspicious about that one.
Thats why I sometimes hate digital audio. You can not see anything wrong like when a valve is redplating
Active low means the pin will go to 0 volts when it locks on an active signal. So, if the 1121 locks on to a signal it recognizes, it will cause pin 5 to ‘go low’, sort of the equivalent to grounding the pin. If the LED is connected to a voltage source via a suitable resistor and then connected to pin 5 it should blink in the absence of a valid file/signal and go solid if it locks on to a valid file/signal. If you’re seeing the blinking LED stop blinking and go off when you start playing a file that’s odd. What voltage supply are you using to power that LED?
Can you post an image of your hookup?
Can you post an image of your hookup?
Ah, ok, I just connected the LED with anode to the PWR Led pin, and the other to ground. That's probably explaining the odd behaviour.
Today I tried to play a 24/192khz file, and this didn't show on the display of the SKlite, it stayed at 44.1 khz.
When I start the dac which is already connected to the laptop, SKlite says "unlocked". When starting playback, it says PCM I2s 44.1 khz no matter what kind of file is played.
That's all pretty frustrating, as I have no clue how to proceed. I would take some measurements, if I would know the points where I could put the probe.
Today I tried to play a 24/192khz file, and this didn't show on the display of the SKlite, it stayed at 44.1 khz.
When I start the dac which is already connected to the laptop, SKlite says "unlocked". When starting playback, it says PCM I2s 44.1 khz no matter what kind of file is played.
That's all pretty frustrating, as I have no clue how to proceed. I would take some measurements, if I would know the points where I could put the probe.
So what happens to the LED when you start to play a file now you have it properly connected?
You are sure you have the power and i2s properly connected? Positive 5V to pin 1 of J1, negative 5V to pin 15 of J1 with their respective grounds and positive 5V to pins 1 and 2 of J2 with ground to pin 7.
A photo would help....
You are sure you have the power and i2s properly connected? Positive 5V to pin 1 of J1, negative 5V to pin 15 of J1 with their respective grounds and positive 5V to pins 1 and 2 of J2 with ground to pin 7.
A photo would help....
The blinking LED should go solid when the 1121 recognizes a valid file/signal.
The 44.1 you’re seeing on a 24/96 file might be a function of the settings of the computer software you’re using to play the files - i.e, that software may be converting everything to 44.1.
You first need to be sure of your connections to the 1121.
The 44.1 you’re seeing on a 24/96 file might be a function of the settings of the computer software you’re using to play the files - i.e, that software may be converting everything to 44.1.
You first need to be sure of your connections to the 1121.
Made a picture…but difficult to see. I checked multiple times for a wiring error, but that doesn't mean that there is none
I used adapter boards from 2mm to 2,54mm and checked for continuity, seems to be ok. And because I had no 3.3kohm resistors, I sometimes took 2 parallel or in line to get there.
I used adapter boards from 2mm to 2,54mm and checked for continuity, seems to be ok. And because I had no 3.3kohm resistors, I sometimes took 2 parallel or in line to get there.
Attachments
Yes, difficult to see. And the adapter boards add another layer of connection.
What is the blinking LED doing when you start to play a file?
If it’s going solid then you need to check your connections on J1. Are you getting both positive and negative 5V at the respective pins? And, of course, your RCAs are properly connected.
If the LED remains blinking when you start to play a file you need to recheck the i2s connections from the DIYINHK board. And, of course, measure that the DIYINHK board is getting 3.3V at its voltage in pins.
What is the blinking LED doing when you start to play a file?
If it’s going solid then you need to check your connections on J1. Are you getting both positive and negative 5V at the respective pins? And, of course, your RCAs are properly connected.
If the LED remains blinking when you start to play a file you need to recheck the i2s connections from the DIYINHK board. And, of course, measure that the DIYINHK board is getting 3.3V at its voltage in pins.