The adhesive should be on the outer circumference (outer vertical edge) of the gasket ring and on all of the metal frame (green) itself.
Not on the inner circumference (blue) nor on the top (pink) surface of the gasket.
The gasket push fits into the enclosure cut-out similar to the way that a sink plug push fits into the sink waste hole.
Not on the inner circumference (blue) nor on the top (pink) surface of the gasket.
The gasket push fits into the enclosure cut-out similar to the way that a sink plug push fits into the sink waste hole.
btw - in the driver data sheet is written:
So I confused if to cut 72.5mm or 75mm..
In any case I should probably just try and see what's feet 🙂
So I confused if to cut 72.5mm or 75mm..
In any case I should probably just try and see what's feet 🙂
The cutout is 72,5 if front mounted, 75mm if rear mounted. Make your cutout after you get the drivers and pay attention that the driver surround is not accidentally covered by the glue.
I am talking about 75 mm for rear mounting as I have described in post #49.
So I just got the speakers and I wondered:
Is it possible to use this glue instead of the silicone one? (for the speakers and the box itself)
I wouldn't use that glue for mounting the speaker as it is permanent in its action, unlike the silicone adhesive I recommended which would allow removal of the driver at a later date should it be required.
For woodwork, we use PVA wood glue. It bonds stronger that the wood itself and it is not messy in use as any surplus can be wiped off with a damp cloth.
For woodwork, we use PVA wood glue. It bonds stronger that the wood itself and it is not messy in use as any surplus can be wiped off with a damp cloth.
P.S. I note that JMFahey suggested using silicone adhesive/sealant to construct the box.
This is a good idea if you are using thin plywood as the silicone can be applied as a fillet to round off and strengthen the interior angle between the mating panels of the box.
This is a good idea if you are using thin plywood as the silicone can be applied as a fillet to round off and strengthen the interior angle between the mating panels of the box.
Apart of the fact I won't be able to remove the driver - is there a reason not to use it in term of sound quality?
So if to understand the recommendation here:
for the box itself - to use silicone
for the driver - PVA wood glue
but in any case I could use the glue I linked for both box and driver? It is just not the best choice?
Thanks!
So if to understand the recommendation here:
for the box itself - to use silicone
for the driver - PVA wood glue
but in any case I could use the glue I linked for both box and driver? It is just not the best choice?
Thanks!
The driver requires the silicone adhesive for its sealant property, i.e., to prevent air leaking between driver and mounting hole.
Find a reasonably priced silicone sealant/adhesive to do both jobs.
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After much consideration, silicone sealant/adhesive emerges as the best choice for your project.
I applied silicone glue for making the box (all parts apart of the driver part) and now I would like to fill that box with the above material I shared a link too before soldering the driver and close it completely
Fill all the volume paying attention that the damping material does not obstruct the rear cone/basket of the driver. Do not press the stuffing material, just fill the box.
If it's a vented box, apply the stuffing on the walls of the box and do not obstruct the path between vent and cone.
If it's a vented box, apply the stuffing on the walls of the box and do not obstruct the path between vent and cone.
Loosely fill the box with absorbent up to the level where it will come in contact with rear of the speaker magnet system.