Malka, thanks for your listening impressions. Nice to know there are still improvements to do with this buffer.. We will wait for your results, and knowing if it worth to put a diode bridge or to balance CCS currents.
Is there any picture of your assembly?
Regards,
Regi
Is there any picture of your assembly?
Regards,
Regi
The single pin of the selector (the one that you would use as 'out' if it was signal selection) goes to ground last one on the right, and each position pin goes to each relay's number on the selector marked strip on the pcb.
Ok, just wanted to be sure...😎
Today i removed the 200ohm resistor, to go back to 50ma in one channel and 60ma in the other. There was absolutely no difference in sound to when it was balanced. I could'nt hear any difference, so Salas you was correct, such a little bit of imbalance in the ccs makes no difference, and so i must credit the improvment of sound i heard, to swaping the diode bridge supplying the Optical volume control with 4 mur120's...could a simple change like this bring about such an improvement in sound??? Well i definitely heard an improvement...so i think yes.
As requested here are a few pics of my Dcb1
And this is the Diode Bridge that i swaped out for 4 Mur120's
Next up, i will hotrod it...I have found this place for the heatsinks.
Heatsinks, Custom Heatsinks, Boardmounting Heatsinks, Anodised Heatsinks
Would someone be kind enough to suggest what heatsinks i should get? I intend to take the current to about 200ma per channel.
Thanks
Alon
As requested here are a few pics of my Dcb1
And this is the Diode Bridge that i swaped out for 4 Mur120's
Next up, i will hotrod it...I have found this place for the heatsinks.
Heatsinks, Custom Heatsinks, Boardmounting Heatsinks, Anodised Heatsinks
Would someone be kind enough to suggest what heatsinks i should get? I intend to take the current to about 200ma per channel.
Thanks
Alon
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There are so many variables you can play with Alon...but a component at a time is a good way to do it. One easy thing to try is with a 9V battery as supply for the LDR...assuming the LDR ps regulator can take 9V input, you can try 4 batteries in parallel. I have that for almost 2 months now and is not about to slow down yet at 8.66V (started at 9.63V). The LM317 can take up to 7V before I see a drop-off in the 5.5Vout supply that my LDRs require.
Thanks for your subjective opinions...I hear the same. Try Diana Krall...
Thanks for your subjective opinions...I hear the same. Try Diana Krall...
Now I can see the pictures more easily and it looks like it's with the DCB1...please try without too.
There are so many variables you can play with Alon...but a component at a time is a good way to do it. One easy thing to try is with a 9V battery as supply for the LDR...assuming the LDR ps regulator can take 9V input, you can try 4 batteries in parallel. I have that for almost 2 months now and is not about to slow down yet at 8.66V (started at 9.63V). The LM317 can take up to 7V before I see a drop-off in the 5.5Vout supply that my LDRs require.
Thanks for your subjective opinions...I hear the same. Try Diana Krall...
Hi Blues,
Thanks for the suggestion...i currently use 12v transformer and after the rectification i get 13.3v dc so dont see a problem with using a 9v battery to supply the optivol...i'll give it a try.
Alon
OT. Are those Seas 10 inchers like in Dynaco A25 lossy box? DIY speakers?
Salas, yes those are diy speakers, and can be bought in kit form at World Designs Speaker Kits Mine are the Wd25t Ex
They are based on the Dynaco a25 and yes they are 10" Seas Drivers
Here are a few articles on the speakers.
http://user.faktiskt.se/M_N/WD25T_Part1.pdf
http://user.faktiskt.se/M_N/WD25TReview_v2.pdf
what do you think of sbyv27-200 diodes from farnel
soft recovery
I've used for years those diodes in my upgrades with great satisfaction. 😎
Everytime they sounded better than stock 1N400x diodes.
Salas, yes those are diy speakers, and can be bought in kit form at World Designs Speaker Kits Mine are the Wd25t Ex
They are based on the Dynaco a25 and yes they are 10" Seas Drivers
Here are a few articles on the speakers.
http://user.faktiskt.se/M_N/WD25T_Part1.pdf
http://user.faktiskt.se/M_N/WD25TReview_v2.pdf
Very readily prepared kit with cabinets offer. Handy for the non wood cutting and finishing equipped. Needs to get near a wall I see. Good choice.
Another one for the WD25T's, although I'll be using the standard tweater and building the cabs myself, plus using the B1 and MyRef C.
Sadly all the components are still in boxes and bags - I have had a lot of building work done on my house and the whole place needs decorating, stopping me from building 😡
But, I take the 10inch SEAS driver out every now and look at it just to make me happy 😀
Sadly all the components are still in boxes and bags - I have had a lot of building work done on my house and the whole place needs decorating, stopping me from building 😡
But, I take the 10inch SEAS driver out every now and look at it just to make me happy 😀
But, I take the 10inch SEAS driver out every now and look at it just to make me happy 😀
Original DIYer.😀
Original DIYer.😀
I also make "doof, doof" noises when I hold it, imagining the music coming from it 😀😀
salas minishunt
Hi William,
What is the colour LED that you are using ?
I understand that the Lightspeed is sensitive to ambient light . Do you find this a problem with the LEd next to the silonix ?
regards
kp93300
Someone mentioned options for powering the Lightspeed... thought I might share the "Salas Mini-Shunt" again as it's buried deep in the thread and some may not have seen it. This is what I use, but I admit I've not tried any other PS options myself.
Hi William,
What is the colour LED that you are using ?
I understand that the Lightspeed is sensitive to ambient light . Do you find this a problem with the LEd next to the silonix ?
regards
kp93300
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