Building a symmetrical PSU B1 buffer

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#1,663
The single pin of the selector (the one that you would use as 'out' if it was signal selection) goes to ground last one on the right, and each position pin goes to each relay's number on the selector marked strip on the pcb.
 

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#1,665
Today i removed the 200ohm resistor, to go back to 50ma in one channel and 60ma in the other. There was absolutely no difference in sound to when it was balanced. I could'nt hear any difference, so Salas you was correct, such a little bit of imbalance in the ccs makes no difference, and so i must credit the improvment of sound i heard, to swaping the diode bridge supplying the Optical volume control with 4 mur120's...could a simple change like this bring about such an improvement in sound??? Well i definitely heard an improvement...so i think yes.

As requested here are a few pics of my Dcb1


And this is the Diode Bridge that i swaped out for 4 Mur120's


Next up, i will hotrod it...I have found this place for the heatsinks.

Heatsinks, Custom Heatsinks, Boardmounting Heatsinks, Anodised Heatsinks

Would someone be kind enough to suggest what heatsinks i should get? I intend to take the current to about 200ma per channel.

Thanks

Alon
 

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#1,666
There are so many variables you can play with Alon...but a component at a time is a good way to do it. One easy thing to try is with a 9V battery as supply for the LDR...assuming the LDR ps regulator can take 9V input, you can try 4 batteries in parallel. I have that for almost 2 months now and is not about to slow down yet at 8.66V (started at 9.63V). The LM317 can take up to 7V before I see a drop-off in the 5.5Vout supply that my LDRs require.

Thanks for your subjective opinions...I hear the same. Try Diana Krall...
 
#1,669
Blues said:
There are so many variables you can play with Alon...but a component at a time is a good way to do it. One easy thing to try is with a 9V battery as supply for the LDR...assuming the LDR ps regulator can take 9V input, you can try 4 batteries in parallel. I have that for almost 2 months now and is not about to slow down yet at 8.66V (started at 9.63V). The LM317 can take up to 7V before I see a drop-off in the 5.5Vout supply that my LDRs require.

Thanks for your subjective opinions...I hear the same. Try Diana Krall...
Click to expand...

Hi Blues,

Thanks for the suggestion...i currently use 12v transformer and after the rectification i get 13.3v dc so dont see a problem with using a 9v battery to supply the optivol...i'll give it a try.

Alon
 
#1,673
#1,675
#1,676
Another one for the WD25T's, although I'll be using the standard tweater and building the cabs myself, plus using the B1 and MyRef C.

Sadly all the components are still in boxes and bags - I have had a lot of building work done on my house and the whole place needs decorating, stopping me from building 😡

But, I take the 10inch SEAS driver out every now and look at it just to make me happy 😀
 
#1,679
Someone mentioned options for powering the Lightspeed... thought I might share the "Salas Mini-Shunt" again as it's buried deep in the thread and some may not have seen it. This is what I use, but I admit I've not tried any other PS options myself.
 

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#1,680
salas minishunt

william2001 said:
Someone mentioned options for powering the Lightspeed... thought I might share the "Salas Mini-Shunt" again as it's buried deep in the thread and some may not have seen it. This is what I use, but I admit I've not tried any other PS options myself.
Click to expand...

Hi William,
What is the colour LED that you are using ?
I understand that the Lightspeed is sensitive to ambient light . Do you find this a problem with the LEd next to the silonix ?
regards
kp93300
 
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