There are some possibilities for an alternative path, but that would better fit a PM conversation. Let's see what develops and if some who bought multiple boards might want to sell a few to others.
Please show a picture of your V3. You have a point that comparison is not honest considering retail prices but I have heard the V3 against some quality DACs costing many times more while they V3 sounded better so price is not the most important factor to take into account (duh!). Also the lack of an audiophile brand name tag on the case make the V3 sound somewhat less good but only if you look at it while listening
BTW be aware that some AN DACs are "voiced". If you add the tube output after the V3 you will probably have results that you like as you are used to the AN DAC by now. The V3 is about neutrality. Some even think it is laid back. You say you find no merit in it. That is a pity. I am sure you can sell it as many requests come in for PCBs.
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Been off the grid for couple weeks but back on
The tinkerer in me wants to start tweaking but I must fight the urge....if it was non smd I would feel more comfortable but I am leaving this one alone.
Ah, that sounds better. I must say I like the positive comments.
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I am quite close to finishing my DAC build with pretty much all parts mounted and at least visually looking allright
I am still tinkering with what to mount in the C22 position... I have a couple of big honking 470uF 16V BG N caps and I am tempted to try one on this DAC.
Of course I have no chance to mount it on the pcb so will have to mount it from the bottom with some short extensions of smaller gauge wire
(leads of the BG are to big to fit the holes on the pcb).
JP, what do you think? Worth trying... I could also put a Wima MKS in the position and use the leads on the back side to mount the BG... any thoughts?
I am still tinkering with what to mount in the C22 position... I have a couple of big honking 470uF 16V BG N caps and I am tempted to try one on this DAC.
Of course I have no chance to mount it on the pcb so will have to mount it from the bottom with some short extensions of smaller gauge wire
(leads of the BG are to big to fit the holes on the pcb).
JP, what do you think? Worth trying... I could also put a Wima MKS in the position and use the leads on the back side to mount the BG... any thoughts?
JP, Fred, Bob n all,
First off I am sorry to say something against the crowd.
I have been testing equipment with my ears for over 40 years. Might be they are deteriorating after so many years of use.
Please do read all my posts, I didn't say I am going to give up but instead I'm going to find ways to make it improved, and now my plan is to install the JG buffer for it. I have the V3 finished with the original parts and had it tested on my system for over 10 hours before I made it with Gary's upgrade, but just limited to the C22 n C17. I will keep exploring to make it sound good.
Again pictures at post 587, any advice would be appreciated but please don't tell me to sell it. I won't sell anything to people, but you can take it from me.
Regards
Albert
First off I am sorry to say something against the crowd.
I have been testing equipment with my ears for over 40 years. Might be they are deteriorating after so many years of use.
Please do read all my posts, I didn't say I am going to give up but instead I'm going to find ways to make it improved, and now my plan is to install the JG buffer for it. I have the V3 finished with the original parts and had it tested on my system for over 10 hours before I made it with Gary's upgrade, but just limited to the C22 n C17. I will keep exploring to make it sound good.
Again pictures at post 587, any advice would be appreciated but please don't tell me to sell it. I won't sell anything to people, but you can take it from me.
Regards
Albert
Albert,
What part did you use for C22? These days I think people are saying the polymer caps they like the best are the Panasonic Oscon SEPC or the Nichicon FP. The ones rated at 6.3v are a good size for the V3 DAC.
From Digikey, that means one of the following caps:
Nichicon FP - part # RS80J471MDNASQJT Digikey # 493-4041-1-ND
Panasonic SEPC - part # 6SEPC470MW+TSS Digikey # P16422CT-ND
Also what value cap did you use for C32. The BOM suggests a value from 4.7uf to 10uf. Did you end up with 4.7uf or 10uf? I find the lower value is a bit better.
Other things to check. From the photo you posted earlier, I notice that you use the SAL-RPM 10uf caps in a few places. Please make sure that you have the polarity right. The markings are a bit confusing and it's possible to make a mistake.
I also notice that you modified the power supply and seem to have added a preregulator. Is that right? Have you tried it without the preregulator?
Just a few thoughts.
---Gary
What part did you use for C22? These days I think people are saying the polymer caps they like the best are the Panasonic Oscon SEPC or the Nichicon FP. The ones rated at 6.3v are a good size for the V3 DAC.
From Digikey, that means one of the following caps:
Nichicon FP - part # RS80J471MDNASQJT Digikey # 493-4041-1-ND
Panasonic SEPC - part # 6SEPC470MW+TSS Digikey # P16422CT-ND
Also what value cap did you use for C32. The BOM suggests a value from 4.7uf to 10uf. Did you end up with 4.7uf or 10uf? I find the lower value is a bit better.
Other things to check. From the photo you posted earlier, I notice that you use the SAL-RPM 10uf caps in a few places. Please make sure that you have the polarity right. The markings are a bit confusing and it's possible to make a mistake.
I also notice that you modified the power supply and seem to have added a preregulator. Is that right? Have you tried it without the preregulator?
Just a few thoughts.
---Gary
Albert, I'm with you all the way on possible upgraded parts. Just wanted to set a base. I know people tend to be a little touchy when asked about their speakers. It's almost like they are part of the family. Yours being DIY prove you have put forth good time and effort to have something a cut above. I'm about to start my fourth major pair (TL this time) even though I've not been able to part from the first three.
I'm following along with great interest and an open cart at Mouser. Also going to try to pull Dario Inserra in as he has experimented with an enormous number of parts, (many SMD) in his work with the Mini 2496, DAC 7 and the MyRef FE. He might have some interesting alternatives to suggest.
I'm about to start my fourth major pair (TL this time) even though I've not been able to part from the first three.I'm following along with great interest and an open cart at Mouser.
Also going to try to pull Dario Inserra in as he has experimented with an enormous number of parts, (many SMD) in his work with the Mini 2496, DAC 7 and the MyRef FE. He might have some interesting alternatives to suggest.Albert,
You can try for C33 any value to 10 uf also as some advise.
The genuine value of the datasheet is 2,2 uF.
For C22 you can mix SEPC with lower value of BlackGates.
I didn't try myself on this pcb because still waiting spare parts fron Mouser ( one ldo and one 50M Fox XO).
I'm waiting JGbuffer also but have no news from Mark...EUVL said to me Mark is very busy and have to wait fews weeks !
You can try for C33 any value to 10 uf also as some advise.
The genuine value of the datasheet is 2,2 uF.
For C22 you can mix SEPC with lower value of BlackGates.
I didn't try myself on this pcb because still waiting spare parts fron Mouser ( one ldo and one 50M Fox XO).
I'm waiting JGbuffer also but have no news from Mark...EUVL said to me Mark is very busy and have to wait fews weeks !
Gary,
It's nice to have you chime in here.
What part did you use for C22? These days I think people are saying the polymer caps they like the best are the Panasonic Oscon SEPC or the Nichicon FP. The ones rated at 6.3v are a good size for the V3 DAC.
From Digikey, that means one of the following caps:
Nichicon FP - part # RS80J471MDNASQJT Digikey # 493-4041-1-ND
Panasonic SEPC - part # 6SEPC470MW+TSS Digikey # P16422CT-ND
Mine is Oscon Sepc 470uf 6.3v
Also what value cap did you use for C32. The BOM suggests a value from 4.7uf to 10uf. Did you end up with 4.7uf or 10uf? I find the lower value is a bit better.
A 10uf SAL-RPM, I also replaced C21 to 47uf SAL-RPM
Other things to check. From the photo you posted earlier, I notice that you use the SAL-RPM 10uf caps in a few places. Please make sure that you have the polarity right. The markings are a bit confusing and it's possible to make a mistake.
I did checked couple times and they are all with same voltages on locations posted by Bob.
I also notice that you modified the power supply and seem to have added a preregulator. Is that right? Have you tried it without the preregulator?
You have good eyes. Yes I have a pre-regulator with LM2940 to cut the voltage down to 12v. My transformer is 10v at the secondary and I found a bit over 15v after rectifier. If you think it's not too high for the original PSU board. I can take it out, it's easy.
I am collecting through hole parts for the JG bufffer. PSU will be Salas V1.
Thanks
Albert
It's nice to have you chime in here.
What part did you use for C22? These days I think people are saying the polymer caps they like the best are the Panasonic Oscon SEPC or the Nichicon FP. The ones rated at 6.3v are a good size for the V3 DAC.
From Digikey, that means one of the following caps:
Nichicon FP - part # RS80J471MDNASQJT Digikey # 493-4041-1-ND
Panasonic SEPC - part # 6SEPC470MW+TSS Digikey # P16422CT-ND
Mine is Oscon Sepc 470uf 6.3v
Also what value cap did you use for C32. The BOM suggests a value from 4.7uf to 10uf. Did you end up with 4.7uf or 10uf? I find the lower value is a bit better.
A 10uf SAL-RPM, I also replaced C21 to 47uf SAL-RPM
Other things to check. From the photo you posted earlier, I notice that you use the SAL-RPM 10uf caps in a few places. Please make sure that you have the polarity right. The markings are a bit confusing and it's possible to make a mistake.
I did checked couple times and they are all with same voltages on locations posted by Bob.
I also notice that you modified the power supply and seem to have added a preregulator. Is that right? Have you tried it without the preregulator?
You have good eyes. Yes I have a pre-regulator with LM2940 to cut the voltage down to 12v. My transformer is 10v at the secondary and I found a bit over 15v after rectifier. If you think it's not too high for the original PSU board. I can take it out, it's easy.
I am collecting through hole parts for the JG bufffer. PSU will be Salas V1.
Thanks
Albert
Albert, I'm with you all the way on possible upgraded parts. Just wanted to set a base. I know people tend to be a little touchy when asked about their speakers. It's almost like they are part of the family. Yours being DIY prove you have put forth good time and effort to have something a cut above.
I'm following along with great interest and an open cart at Mouser.
Bob,
I am fine with any suggestions. I know nothing is perfect, but we all try to make our system close to that ' perfect', this is the fun part of DIY, and it's never end. Hope we can reach our goal, or at least try hard to improve our system to our taste.
Albert
Eldam,
Thanks n will try the suggestions listed below.
You can try for C33 any value to 10 uf also as some advise.
The genuine value of the datasheet is 2,2 uF.
For C22 you can mix SEPC with lower value of BlackGates.
I didn't try myself on this pcb because still waiting spare parts fron Mouser ( one ldo and one 50M Fox XO).
I'm waiting JGbuffer also but have no news from Mark...EUVL said to me Mark is very busy and have to wait fews weeks ![/QUOTE]
I can't wait for I don't know it will take how long the time. I rather build this with all through hole parts on my bin. I almost have everything except the J310.
Cheers
Albert
Thanks n will try the suggestions listed below.
You can try for C33 any value to 10 uf also as some advise.
The genuine value of the datasheet is 2,2 uF.
For C22 you can mix SEPC with lower value of BlackGates.
I didn't try myself on this pcb because still waiting spare parts fron Mouser ( one ldo and one 50M Fox XO).
I'm waiting JGbuffer also but have no news from Mark...EUVL said to me Mark is very busy and have to wait fews weeks ![/QUOTE]
I can't wait for I don't know it will take how long the time. I rather build this with all through hole parts on my bin. I almost have everything except the J310.
Cheers
Albert
Albert,
Bigger isn't always better. I'd take the 10uf SAL-RPM and use it for C21. Then I'd find a 4.7uf cap for C32. Either a SAL-RPM or a Wima MKS cap. If you don't have either of those then an electrolytic cap.
I don't think you need the LM2940 preregulator. The circuit will work fine without it. The long wires to the LM2940 and the extra caps could cause unwanted problems.
Having all the voltages correct doesn't mean the capacitors are wired correctly. It's worth checking their orientation just in case.
Finally, I don't think there is any value in increasing C33 as suggested by Eldam.
As always, just my opinion.
---Gary
Gary,
Thanks for your feedback.
Bigger isn't always better. I'd take the 10uf SAL-RPM and use it for C21. Then I'd find a 4.7uf cap for C32. Either a SAL-RPM or a Wima MKS cap. If you don't have either of those then an electrolytic cap.
I will move them back .
I don't think you need the LM2940 preregulator. The circuit will work fine without it. The long wires to the LM2940 and the extra caps could cause unwanted problems.
I go take it down.
Having all the voltages correct doesn't mean the capacitors are wired correctly. It's worth checking their orientation just in case.
I will double check the polarity.
Thanks
Albert
Thanks for your feedback.
Bigger isn't always better. I'd take the 10uf SAL-RPM and use it for C21. Then I'd find a 4.7uf cap for C32. Either a SAL-RPM or a Wima MKS cap. If you don't have either of those then an electrolytic cap.
I will move them back .
I don't think you need the LM2940 preregulator. The circuit will work fine without it. The long wires to the LM2940 and the extra caps could cause unwanted problems.
I go take it down.
Having all the voltages correct doesn't mean the capacitors are wired correctly. It's worth checking their orientation just in case.
I will double check the polarity.
Thanks
Albert
Hi everyone.
I'm nearing the final touches on my DAC, can't wait to get it playing!
As usual, it's the fiddly final stuff which seems to cause me the most indecision and confusion.
I'm hoping someone (JP?) might be able to clear up a couple of questions regarding connections for me.
I've seen it mentioned that the SPDIF standard was designed for 75ohm cables and BNC connections should be used. This seems reasonable to me.
Is something like this :
Buy BNC Connectors Connector,coaxial,RF,BNC,insulated bulkhead socket,75 Ohm,white Telegartner J01003B1286 online from RS for next day delivery.
what I'm after?
Also, I'm assuming that I should be using RG59 or RG6 cable, not normal shielded stuff?
Plus, I THINK that the BNC connector I linked to is 75 ohms, so that means I wouldn't have to do anything to terminate it?
So does that mean I could use a plain bnc connector and just whack a 75 ohm resistor across it?
If I went this way, would there be anything else I would have to do on the DAC pcb, or just a short length of wire from the back of the panel BNC to the board?
Do you start to get the feeling that I'm an RF standards n00b/idiot?
Thanks for any light you can shed on my many probably stupid questions.
Mark
I'm nearing the final touches on my DAC, can't wait to get it playing!
As usual, it's the fiddly final stuff which seems to cause me the most indecision and confusion.
I'm hoping someone (JP?) might be able to clear up a couple of questions regarding connections for me.
I've seen it mentioned that the SPDIF standard was designed for 75ohm cables and BNC connections should be used. This seems reasonable to me.
Is something like this :
Buy BNC Connectors Connector,coaxial,RF,BNC,insulated bulkhead socket,75 Ohm,white Telegartner J01003B1286 online from RS for next day delivery.
what I'm after?
Also, I'm assuming that I should be using RG59 or RG6 cable, not normal shielded stuff?
Plus, I THINK that the BNC connector I linked to is 75 ohms, so that means I wouldn't have to do anything to terminate it?
So does that mean I could use a plain bnc connector and just whack a 75 ohm resistor across it?
If I went this way, would there be anything else I would have to do on the DAC pcb, or just a short length of wire from the back of the panel BNC to the board?
Do you start to get the feeling that I'm an RF standards n00b/idiot?
Thanks for any light you can shed on my many probably stupid questions.
Mark
So if the connector is 75ohm and the board has 75ohm, would I be accidently using 150ohm? Or does it not work like that?
I'd rather ask and feel foolish than stuff it all up...
Cheers,
Mark
The 75 Ohm for the BNC connector are not actual resistance you will measure with your DMM. The bare BNC socket will measure open circuit between center pin and ground lug.
It is the wave impedance of the BNC socket and it is determined by the physical arrangement of the conductors and isulators.
It is the wave impedance of the BNC socket and it is determined by the physical arrangement of the conductors and isulators.
Ding