thanks, yeah its coming together.
yep, in parallel, the benefit is pretty subjective, though definitely has its reasons and I and many others before me have used it to good effect. first of all, vcap cutf copper foil teflon cap doesnt really go that large (or anything but really monstrous ptfe caps for scientific use), cant remember the largest value, but whatever it is, its worth a LOT of money and still not big enough (like a few hundred each) and is physically quite massive.
Basically in this setup and considering my aleph JX and circlotron input impedance is quite large, the teflon cap, even though only 0.1uf, will be covering most of the frequency response, but not quite low enough for the deeeepest bass, so it needs some reinforcement to reach down really low and thats what the Auricap is for. which is a pretty decent cap in its own right.
small caps are usually faster also, of any type. on the other hand some say that their is a resonance in the inductance of the leads of the 2 caps, i havent put it on the scope, but if there is any it certainly isnt causing any audible effect.
yep, in parallel, the benefit is pretty subjective, though definitely has its reasons and I and many others before me have used it to good effect. first of all, vcap cutf copper foil teflon cap doesnt really go that large (or anything but really monstrous ptfe caps for scientific use), cant remember the largest value, but whatever it is, its worth a LOT of money and still not big enough (like a few hundred each) and is physically quite massive.
Basically in this setup and considering my aleph JX and circlotron input impedance is quite large, the teflon cap, even though only 0.1uf, will be covering most of the frequency response, but not quite low enough for the deeeepest bass, so it needs some reinforcement to reach down really low and thats what the Auricap is for. which is a pretty decent cap in its own right.
small caps are usually faster also, of any type. on the other hand some say that their is a resonance in the inductance of the leads of the 2 caps, i havent put it on the scope, but if there is any it certainly isnt causing any audible effect.
btw I wasnt so much correcting you opc with the 0/O thing, i just thought perhaps Felipe was searching for the wrong thing and thus getting no results, because i know that for a bit i thought mouser didnt have it either, when i was green i thought thats what it was (spelled with an O) and because digikey included that misspelling in their search for np0 and mouser doesnt, i was none the wiser till i looked it up.
Yes you are right qusp this was the reason I don't get any result from Mouser, do you know any through hole cap? till I get the COG/NP0 can I use any ceramic 0.01uF that I have on hand?
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I thought so, yeah the kemet gold is good quality and not too pricey. i wouldnt use any less than x7r personally.
I changed LM317 supply Buffalo II for Salas Shunt LV reg, worth the extra work & money really is other DAC, next change all LM317-337 for Salas Shunt LV regs.
i never used that reg 😀 its not populated. watch the heat. remember you absolutely have to keep case temp well under 70 degrees or you will kill the sabre dac chip
indeed its a superb sounding iv stage
indeed its a superb sounding iv stage
OK I take note about temp, thanks for advice.
Yes it's a very very good sounding I/V stage but if you can afford & the temp inside your box (my box it's a 3U so 120mm high & top case it's full ventilated) left you believe me change the LM or LT regs for Salas Shunt LV regs
Yes it's a very very good sounding I/V stage but if you can afford & the temp inside your box (my box it's a 3U so 120mm high & top case it's full ventilated) left you believe me change the LM or LT regs for Salas Shunt LV regs
yeah I already run a rather complex power supply of super regulators, lifepo4 batteries and low noise series regs for my ackodac, with shunt regulated lifeo4 for clock power on my usb-i2s. once i go to 2 box build and finish testing i may look at changing the iv power supply, but until then i need all the space and flexibility i can get. i use lt1085/1033 rather than 317/337
I used other 0.01uF ceramic & still stops the music every 10 minutes or so, if I use the Kemet the music don't stop?
sorry mate I dunno, like i keep saying, i dont use this part of the pcb, you might have some other problem that is causing this. i dont have any problem with glitches with either my bII or ackodac, but i have a completely different setup
Merlin,
You definitely do have some other problem. It's likely a ground loop involving the coax SPDIF signal. Or else you have the BII setup incorrectly (make sure the SPDIF switch is in the correct position).
I had a problem where anytime I started my coffee grinder or the kettle in the kitchen, the digital lock would drop for a second or two. I traced it back to a ground loop between the PC, the Musiland USB to SPDIF converter my Behringer DEQ2496. I swapped to optical between the Musiland and the Behringer, and the problem went away.
Experiment with your grounding and the setup on the BII and let me know how it goes.
Regards,
Owen
You definitely do have some other problem. It's likely a ground loop involving the coax SPDIF signal. Or else you have the BII setup incorrectly (make sure the SPDIF switch is in the correct position).
I had a problem where anytime I started my coffee grinder or the kettle in the kitchen, the digital lock would drop for a second or two. I traced it back to a ground loop between the PC, the Musiland USB to SPDIF converter my Behringer DEQ2496. I swapped to optical between the Musiland and the Behringer, and the problem went away.
Experiment with your grounding and the setup on the BII and let me know how it goes.
Regards,
Owen
Thank you guys,
It's really strange because the glitches issue is with a CD transport 16/44 & with HiFace streaming 24/192.
I have a question: it's possible that I only have to connect the signal in the pulse tx: because now I have connected both signal & ground so I will try & report.
Cheers
Felipe
It's really strange because the glitches issue is with a CD transport 16/44 & with HiFace streaming 24/192.
I have a question: it's possible that I only have to connect the signal in the pulse tx: because now I have connected both signal & ground so I will try & report.
Cheers
Felipe
@Owen
The S/PDIF switch is always in "ON" position. With only connected the signal to the pulse tx & bypassed the gnd the BII don't have signal. Why the BII sound better with two 75R resistors in parallel instead a single 75R between signal & gnd after the pulse tx before the BII?
The S/PDIF switch is always in "ON" position. With only connected the signal to the pulse tx & bypassed the gnd the BII don't have signal. Why the BII sound better with two 75R resistors in parallel instead a single 75R between signal & gnd after the pulse tx before the BII?
Russ from TP help me to fix the issue: I removed 75R & put the 10nF cap in the primary side of the pulse tx
That depends... what's your mains voltage and what rails are you running?
The I/V and the DAC together running with 45V rails will draw roughly 50W including the drop across the regulators. If you're running a different PSU then that could be significantly more.
Given that, and the fact that the caps immediately after the first stage rectifiers aren't over the top, I would say the following fuses would work:
120V mains: 0.6A slow blow
240V mains: 0.3A slow blow
If you have huge caps after the bridge rectifiers, then you might need more, and if you're running shunt supplies then I would imagine your power dissipation could more than double. You'll have to look at your particular solution and find out what power draw you have.
I usually like to use slow blow fuses, and for lower power level, constant draw circuits like the NTD1 I like to size the fuse about 25% above what the circuit normally draws.
Cheers,
Owen
The I/V and the DAC together running with 45V rails will draw roughly 50W including the drop across the regulators. If you're running a different PSU then that could be significantly more.
Given that, and the fact that the caps immediately after the first stage rectifiers aren't over the top, I would say the following fuses would work:
120V mains: 0.6A slow blow
240V mains: 0.3A slow blow
If you have huge caps after the bridge rectifiers, then you might need more, and if you're running shunt supplies then I would imagine your power dissipation could more than double. You'll have to look at your particular solution and find out what power draw you have.
I usually like to use slow blow fuses, and for lower power level, constant draw circuits like the NTD1 I like to size the fuse about 25% above what the circuit normally draws.
Cheers,
Owen
I have:
BII
Salas reg V1.2R 0.5A (for all pcb 5.5V)
Salas reg BiB 0.3A 3.3V clock instead Trident
Salas reg (Disco schematic) 0.3A 1.2V digital core instead Trident
In the future will have:
Two Salas reg BiB 0.3A 3.3V instead AVCC module powering analog & one other BiB 0.3A 3.3V for digital chip
You I/V is going on with your PSU board with LM317 & LM337 but in the future will have four Salas V1.2R two +45V & two -45V, how much current will disipate your I/V?
BII
Salas reg V1.2R 0.5A (for all pcb 5.5V)
Salas reg BiB 0.3A 3.3V clock instead Trident
Salas reg (Disco schematic) 0.3A 1.2V digital core instead Trident
In the future will have:
Two Salas reg BiB 0.3A 3.3V instead AVCC module powering analog & one other BiB 0.3A 3.3V for digital chip
You I/V is going on with your PSU board with LM317 & LM337 but in the future will have four Salas V1.2R two +45V & two -45V, how much current will disipate your I/V?