If you do decide to connect the DAC/PSU/Signal grounds to the chassis ground, do so in only one place (star ground). Multiple ground paths will result in ground loops and noise.
If you are using TPA components and wiring correctly, the DAC's ground will be connected to the PSU's ground and the output stage's ground already, so only one connection to the chassis would be needed.
If you are using TPA components and wiring correctly, the DAC's ground will be connected to the PSU's ground and the output stage's ground already, so only one connection to the chassis would be needed.
Thanks guys, Everything worked perfectly from switch on. I have the ps in a separate box (earthed) and just ran 2 wires to the dac. The transformer secondaries are 0v referenced at the power amp only.
May I say huge thanks for the great sound - really enjoying it on usb - not just flac files etc sound good, but listening to U-tube jazz lessons is a whole new experience.
At present using a 317 reg ps - planning to upgrade to Placid. Any comments on difference to expect?
best wishes, martin
May I say huge thanks for the great sound - really enjoying it on usb - not just flac files etc sound good, but listening to U-tube jazz lessons is a whole new experience.
At present using a 317 reg ps - planning to upgrade to Placid. Any comments on difference to expect?
best wishes, martin
Instead of the green leds mounted on the PCB, can I put two blue leds (mute/lock) on the front of my box ?
Blue leds are 2 mm - 3V - 30mA max
Also, to get a little off buffalo-topic, when I'm sure placids work properly, can I remove the green LEDs? I'm afraid it could illuminate through my air holes :/
Blue leds are 2 mm - 3V - 30mA max
Also, to get a little off buffalo-topic, when I'm sure placids work properly, can I remove the green LEDs? I'm afraid it could illuminate through my air holes :/
Blue LEDs have a bit too much forward voltage.
No you cannot remove the LEDs from Placid - they are an integral part of the circuit.
No you cannot remove the LEDs from Placid - they are an integral part of the circuit.
Thanks guys, Everything worked perfectly from switch on. I have the ps in a separate box (earthed) and just ran 2 wires to the dac. The transformer secondaries are 0v referenced at the power amp only.
May I say huge thanks for the great sound - really enjoying it on usb - not just flac files etc sound good, but listening to U-tube jazz lessons is a whole new experience.
At present using a 317 reg ps - planning to upgrade to Placid. Any comments on difference to expect?
best wishes, martin
Glad to hear it!
The difference is subtle, but things will definitely be a bit better. 🙂
I noticed the green LEDs on the DVCC Trident don't light up (they are all lit on the VDD and VDD_XO) Is this normal? I have confirmed the ps voltage at the input is correct (5.25v)
thanks,
thanks,
I noticed the green LEDs on the DVCC Trident don't light up (they are all lit on the VDD and VDD_XO) Is this normal? I have confirmed the ps voltage at the input is correct (5.25v)
thanks,
No. It is not normal. What is it's voltage output?
I've tested one of my blue led, it lights up with two aaa batteries, and I measured 2.7V, I think I'll try these leds on the lock/mute 🙂
I've tested one of my blue led, it lights up with two aaa batteries, and I measured 2.7V, I think I'll try these leds on the lock/mute 🙂
Might work fine, but might be a bit dim with the stock resistors.
Outputs to GND measured with Fluke DMM
DVCC 3.7V (not lit up)
VDD 1.2V
VDD_XO 3.3V
thanks
DVCC should be 3.3V - it must be damaged.
Can I order a replacement? I will order the Placid at same time. Is it safe to use like this or should I wait?
thanks
thanks
No need - just found a dry solder joint on the centre GND leg - now 3.3V and all lit up like Gotham City 🙂 yay!
Still wondering when the OTTO 4:1 will be avalible?
Please see this thread, and weigh in. 🙂
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/226822-4-1-4-2-mux.html#post3306954
Buffalo-IIIse DAC - supply list
Hello Russ n Brian -
I'm a bit new to the diy DAC world, I work in the music industry- record production - mixing mastering etc. We work mostly with 24bit 96k files for now, currently are audio stage is as follows - (protools) Digital Audio Interface (digi002 rack) direct out via S/PDIF (RCA) to a Roland M1000 digital mixer DAC- to Powered monitors. It sounds good, but after hearing what so many have said about the ESS Sabre32, I'm now interested in building a custom DAC to replace the Roland...
So my question is this.
What do I need to purchase from you to get started?
Audio Requirements:
1 S/PDIF (RCA) input
2 XLR outputs
maybe a headphone jack.
Thank you for your time in advance.
Hello Russ n Brian -
I'm a bit new to the diy DAC world, I work in the music industry- record production - mixing mastering etc. We work mostly with 24bit 96k files for now, currently are audio stage is as follows - (protools) Digital Audio Interface (digi002 rack) direct out via S/PDIF (RCA) to a Roland M1000 digital mixer DAC- to Powered monitors. It sounds good, but after hearing what so many have said about the ESS Sabre32, I'm now interested in building a custom DAC to replace the Roland...
So my question is this.
What do I need to purchase from you to get started?
Audio Requirements:
1 S/PDIF (RCA) input
2 XLR outputs
maybe a headphone jack.
Thank you for your time in advance.
Everything is documented in the integration guide: http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/doc...-Buffalo_III_DAC_Integration_Guide_V2.0.0.pdfSo my question is this.
What do I need to purchase from you to get started?
Audio Requirements:
1 S/PDIF (RCA) input
2 XLR outputs
maybe a headphone jack.
Thank you for your time in advance.
Well everything but the kitchen sink, but rest assured: you don't need one for this build 😉
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