Hi,
I was just wondering if I'm able to advertise my Buffalo DAC on the forum?
This is just for the DAC module itself. It's never been modified and the only soldering done by me was for the terminal blocks and the two LED's. (all other components were professionally soldered as bought from TP).
The DAC has only ever been used with the TP LCDPS - the supply rail voltages were confirmed using an o'scope (with the DAC connected).
I'm not sure exactly how much it's worth? - @Russ / Brian: the DAC and LCDPS combo was $219 back in December - how much would the DAC alone have cost?
Also, is it OK to list the DAC on eB*y as well as on the forum, or does that violate the terms of "DIY only"?
Thanks,
OzOnE.
EDIT: btw, it's the v1.2 DAC, so has the faster S/PDIF comparator etc.
I was just wondering if I'm able to advertise my Buffalo DAC on the forum?
This is just for the DAC module itself. It's never been modified and the only soldering done by me was for the terminal blocks and the two LED's. (all other components were professionally soldered as bought from TP).
The DAC has only ever been used with the TP LCDPS - the supply rail voltages were confirmed using an o'scope (with the DAC connected).
I'm not sure exactly how much it's worth? - @Russ / Brian: the DAC and LCDPS combo was $219 back in December - how much would the DAC alone have cost?
Also, is it OK to list the DAC on eB*y as well as on the forum, or does that violate the terms of "DIY only"?
Thanks,
OzOnE.
EDIT: btw, it's the v1.2 DAC, so has the faster S/PDIF comparator etc.
A little tweak idea
This won't make much difference, but is worth trying, for anybody using LCDPS with a Buffalo.
The VA supply only draws 30mA, but the draw on VD is much bigger (over 100mA). You can therefore get away with increasing the value of the 10Ohm resistors in the CRLC part of the LCDPS for the VA side. Depending on the transformer voltage you are using, you should be able to go up to say 47Ohms; this will reduce high frequency noise at the input to the LM317 by about 13dB for minimal cost. If you have more voltage headroom, you could go even further in increasing the resistor value.
This won't make much difference, but is worth trying, for anybody using LCDPS with a Buffalo.
The VA supply only draws 30mA, but the draw on VD is much bigger (over 100mA). You can therefore get away with increasing the value of the 10Ohm resistors in the CRLC part of the LCDPS for the VA side. Depending on the transformer voltage you are using, you should be able to go up to say 47Ohms; this will reduce high frequency noise at the input to the LM317 by about 13dB for minimal cost. If you have more voltage headroom, you could go even further in increasing the resistor value.
Sure man... it's your DAC
Absolutely. Settling on a good all around value was actually not easy. We came up 10R after coming up with a list of the various currents it was likely to be feeding, but customizing the R value for your load is a good idea.
[EDIT] Everytime I think I will be first to reply...
I am working on my DAC32, it is actually working now, but I still have several questions:
- I found that the manual suggest us to short the L1 and L2 pads. So I use sholder blobs to short those pads (I assume it is about solder each pad, not connect L1 and L2 by wire). Then here comes my question, why Twistedpearaudio intend to leave it to DIYers. It should be pair easy to just not have those pads on the board. Is there any reason behind?
- I also use the Volumite, and it requires to remove the on board control. I found in some threads, Brian meationed that it needs to remove the onboard uC. But what is uC? is it IC8 on the layout picture?
Thanks in advance!
- I found that the manual suggest us to short the L1 and L2 pads. So I use sholder blobs to short those pads (I assume it is about solder each pad, not connect L1 and L2 by wire). Then here comes my question, why Twistedpearaudio intend to leave it to DIYers. It should be pair easy to just not have those pads on the board. Is there any reason behind?
- I also use the Volumite, and it requires to remove the on board control. I found in some threads, Brian meationed that it needs to remove the onboard uC. But what is uC? is it IC8 on the layout picture?
Thanks in advance!
sleep888 said:
When we did the first run of boards we were not sure how we wanted to handle joining the ground planes, and we thought different users might want to try different methods. So we left those two links open since you could join the planes at the PS or on the board. We later found it was preferable to link at the board, so we have since added a jumper at both spots (all new boards have that done).
Yes IC8 is the Atmel micorcontroller(uC).
We also added the relay to the output on the new board revision such that Thumpbuster is not required. It is now built in.
Cheers!
Russ
Hi Russ and Brian,
Quick question...... I was just wondering whether it would be possible to trigger an OTTO using the Lock LED output from your SPDIF MUX? It seems to me that I could just connect the anode pad from the MUX to TR. Then connect the 5V and GND on the OTTO to its own power supply.
(Or do I need to connect the GND LED pin from the MUX to the GND on the OTTO as well?)
My only concern would be that the MUX could supply enough juice for triggering, considering the LED on the MUX is behind a 470R resistor, and Q1 is behind another resistor on the OTTO.
Thanks, as always!
Quick question...... I was just wondering whether it would be possible to trigger an OTTO using the Lock LED output from your SPDIF MUX? It seems to me that I could just connect the anode pad from the MUX to TR. Then connect the 5V and GND on the OTTO to its own power supply.
(Or do I need to connect the GND LED pin from the MUX to the GND on the OTTO as well?)
My only concern would be that the MUX could supply enough juice for triggering, considering the LED on the MUX is behind a 470R resistor, and Q1 is behind another resistor on the OTTO.
Thanks, as always!
Beefy said:Hi Russ and Brian,
Quick question...... I was just wondering whether it would be possible to trigger an OTTO using the Lock LED output from your SPDIF MUX? It seems to me that I could just connect the anode pad from the MUX to TR. Then connect the 5V and GND on the OTTO to its own power supply.
(Or do I need to connect the GND LED pin from the MUX to the GND on the OTTO as well?)
My only concern would be that the MUX could supply enough juice for triggering, considering the LED on the MUX is behind a 470R resistor, and Q1 is behind another resistor on the OTTO.
Thanks, as always!
That should be workable. The MUX Q1 will only be at 3.3V, but it should be enough to switch OTTO's Q1. Worth some playing anyway...
maybe a "fake lin pot" could be constructed along the lines of http://sound.westhost.com/project01.htm ?
Hello,
We'v finished building the buffalo but somehow it doesn't seem to work. We use only SPDIF. All values from both supplies are ok. Everything seems to be in order. The only thing that got us somehow baffled is the SPDIF DIP switch. The marking reads 1 and On. Which position should it be on? We are all newbies to anything digital. Used an opera consonance reference 2.2 as transport with the DAC feeding an active pre. Any suggestion that may help us have the Buffalo work is highly appreciated.
We'v finished building the buffalo but somehow it doesn't seem to work. We use only SPDIF. All values from both supplies are ok. Everything seems to be in order. The only thing that got us somehow baffled is the SPDIF DIP switch. The marking reads 1 and On. Which position should it be on? We are all newbies to anything digital. Used an opera consonance reference 2.2 as transport with the DAC feeding an active pre. Any suggestion that may help us have the Buffalo work is highly appreciated.
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