"When my current stock of Panasonics run out, I will be switching the kits over to Wima FKP."
Brian, to what module are you referring to and where in the circuit?
Missed this. I am referring to the IVY filter caps. I will be using 100V/2.5% FKP2
Russ White said:
I think that both the PCB and the PIC are marked.
Only a few of the "1.1" version PCBs shipped with the "9-bit" firmware. For anyone with one of those just keep switch 3 low and you will be golden.
Cheers!
Russ
Thanks Russ I do have a 1.1 board (No 40) so I guess 3 to low ;-)
Also thanks to ichiban ;-)
On the board/firmware/notch filter subject, to clear things up...
Is the board version important, or just the firmware level? I have a 1.1 Buffalo, (#41, interestingly enough) and 1.0.3 written on the PIC chip.
Which one is 1.0.3 and what is it's proper switch orientation?
I guess a little chart of possibilities would be useful to post someplace.
Is the board version important, or just the firmware level? I have a 1.1 Buffalo, (#41, interestingly enough) and 1.0.3 written on the PIC chip.
Which one is 1.0.3 and what is it's proper switch orientation?
I guess a little chart of possibilities would be useful to post someplace.
JonPike said:
I guess a little chart of possibilities would be useful to post someplace.
Good idea!
123chris said:I received my Volumite today together with the comperator. Great service!
I have one question:
Is the orientation of IC1 correct in this way?
Thanks.
Chris
Chip is backwards. I will improve the stickers.
Attachments
Very interesting. Pls. try to test it again, this time the original design. I will, it's just a pain to get to the caps - thanks to the stacking design
I'm still not convinced. I think I'm still getting SsssSSSsssss'es even with decent caps. Not as much as with bad-caps, but it's still there.
I don't remember this issue at all with the non modded version.
So exactly what is the problem with the original design? Something about the Sabre slewing too fast for the THS and therefore it's introducing distortion? Is that actually a practical problem, or just a design issue?
I'm still not convinced. I think I'm still getting SsssSSSsssss'es even with decent caps. Not as much as with bad-caps, but it's still there.
I don't remember this issue at all with the non modded version.
So exactly what is the problem with the original design? Something about the Sabre slewing too fast for the THS and therefore it's introducing distortion? Is that actually a practical problem, or just a design issue?
avr300 said:So exactly what is the problem with the original design? Something about the Sabre slewing too fast for the THS and therefore it's introducing distortion? Is that actually a practical problem, or just a design issue?
There is no "problem".
That the danger when you show people new things, they think there is something wrong.
It simply is a different filtering/compensating technique.
As you can see the IVY was designed to support it. It not really a mod. It just was not originally recommended because I had not thoroughly tested it yet.
dday_one said:Hi Brian/Russ,
I received the volumite today. I have a q: wil it work when using a 10k or 25k pot-meter?
thx.
Yes, either should be OK. But I would use the 10K.
Cheers!
Russ
I was wondering if this remote kit would work with the volumite on the buffalo if I rewired the volumite to accept the motorized pot. What do you think? Remote Volume Control Kit
Hey TP dudes,
How does that Buffalo sound when connected to the Placid shunt reg? When do you think you will have it for sale? How much are you thinking of asking? Will you have them ready by the time the Buffalo stampede on Dec. 8? I am sure it will sound more natural. I don't know how to describe it but my experience, although very limited, shunts make things real. If you have one ready before the stampede I would love to switch from the LCDPS to the Placid in my order as I know I will switch in the future anyway and would love to avoid the added work and expense of selling the LCDPS. I am waiting with sheer excitement for my Buffalo, kinda like when I was a kid at Christmas!
How does that Buffalo sound when connected to the Placid shunt reg? When do you think you will have it for sale? How much are you thinking of asking? Will you have them ready by the time the Buffalo stampede on Dec. 8? I am sure it will sound more natural. I don't know how to describe it but my experience, although very limited, shunts make things real. If you have one ready before the stampede I would love to switch from the LCDPS to the Placid in my order as I know I will switch in the future anyway and would love to avoid the added work and expense of selling the LCDPS. I am waiting with sheer excitement for my Buffalo, kinda like when I was a kid at Christmas!
khundude said:Hey TP dudes,
How does that Buffalo sound when connected to the Placid shunt reg? When do you think you will have it for sale? How much are you thinking of asking? Will you have them ready by the time the Buffalo stampede on Dec. 8? I am sure it will sound more natural. I don't know how to describe it but my experience, although very limited, shunts make things real. If you have one ready before the stampede I would love to switch from the LCDPS to the Placid in my order as I know I will switch in the future anyway and would love to avoid the added work and expense of selling the LCDPS. I am waiting with sheer excitement for my Buffalo, kinda like when I was a kid at Christmas!
I am also interested in the Placid, but there are onboard regulators and an opamp for the supplies, so there is no benefit to simply connect the placid to the buffalo.
There could be a better way: The LCDPS can still be responsible for the digital supply, because the digital supply does not seem to be critical.
Then we could remove IC3 (and more), the analog supply. The Placid will be used for the left and right analog supply. It is best to solder the wires from the Placid directly on both sides of C11 and C12, theses are the nearest points to the analog supply inputs.
I know that Russ and Brian are not happy when we start to modify their buffalo boards, but I hope they won't mind or give an even better solution how to use the Placid. It could even be that there is no difference sonically, but I don't think so.
André
I'm not so sure. Digital circuits can also benefit from a cleaner supply, prior to the onboard regulators.rolls said:I am also interested in the Placid, but there are onboard regulators and an opamp for the supplies, so there is no benefit to simply connect the placid to the buffalo.
I fail to see the point in using two different PSUs, when a one very clean one can feed both circuits. One Placid (which is a dual PSU) will be good to feed both circuits on the Buffalo. Why add a second, inferior PSU?rolls said:The Placid will be used for the left and right analog supply
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