I think those are not for resistor but the GND pins for the pot support legs. So don’t worry about it.
I see you are using the remote control Alps pot. Those are a good deal on Aliexpress.
I see you are using the remote control Alps pot. Those are a good deal on Aliexpress.
Oh... I forgot that the pot has a housing...thanks for the clarification!
Luckily, for the pots and many other things I have a european source with 3 days delivery, Ali needs 4-5 weeks.
Luckily, for the pots and many other things I have a european source with 3 days delivery, Ali needs 4-5 weeks.
Many thanks X 
I have an issue with my switch - will the common contact be switched between NO (open when switch off, contact to common when switch on) and NC (closed when switch off and contact to common when switch on)? Now is the switch off but the amp is on 🤔 sound tomorrow, have to change the inputs short from pin 2 to pin 3 (I worked with the first wiring diagram).
I have an issue with my switch - will the common contact be switched between NO (open when switch off, contact to common when switch on) and NC (closed when switch off and contact to common when switch on)? Now is the switch off but the amp is on 🤔 sound tomorrow, have to change the inputs short from pin 2 to pin 3 (I worked with the first wiring diagram).
Yes, that’s how the 3 pin DPST switch works. N/C and N/O alternate so just flip until it works when button is pushed in and latched.
I think the switch label means when button is not depressed that is “normal” position. Pushed in is the opposite of not “normal”. 😀
It looks like your HyperSET is on and working. I see HV is on and heater filaments are on. You should have sound now.
I think the switch label means when button is not depressed that is “normal” position. Pushed in is the opposite of not “normal”. 😀
It looks like your HyperSET is on and working. I see HV is on and heater filaments are on. You should have sound now.
Hi X,
thanks, it was the switch - brand new, but broken😡
Another switch - it works as it should 👍
Now a quick check of the pot connection (I don't want to destroy my speakers when the pot is connected vice versa...) and if everything is okay - some listening
thanks, it was the switch - brand new, but broken😡
Another switch - it works as it should 👍
Now a quick check of the pot connection (I don't want to destroy my speakers when the pot is connected vice versa...) and if everything is okay - some listening
It works 😍
And it makes music. I've only tested mono, with an A&K Kann, a cold ACA and the completely inappropriate Manzanita and it's already very promising 👍Next up will be adding the amp to my main system, but probably not until tomorrow. And now - let's start with the chassis
And it makes music. I've only tested mono, with an A&K Kann, a cold ACA and the completely inappropriate Manzanita and it's already very promising 👍Next up will be adding the amp to my main system, but probably not until tomorrow. And now - let's start with the chassis
"Integration" of the test bed is not easy, but technically it was a succes, even if I had some slight hum, but with this wiring is not really a wonder.
Musically - it's gorgeous 😍
It was just a short session and only tube mode, but in this short time the amp showed great features, such as superb spatial depth, beautiful vocals, very natural sounding instruments, wide and deep stage. The bass is dry but with punch, just the way I like it, the mids melt away, the highs are crystal clear. Wow, really great! I'm looking forward to the chassis and to the right high-quality cabling and connections; tomorrow I'll order the panels, I think I'll be finished in two weeks🙂
Musically - it's gorgeous 😍
It was just a short session and only tube mode, but in this short time the amp showed great features, such as superb spatial depth, beautiful vocals, very natural sounding instruments, wide and deep stage. The bass is dry but with punch, just the way I like it, the mids melt away, the highs are crystal clear. Wow, really great! I'm looking forward to the chassis and to the right high-quality cabling and connections; tomorrow I'll order the panels, I think I'll be finished in two weeks🙂
Hi X,
I'm thinking about to go with a linear power supply, and would use the LM78S12, which can handle 2 A with an appropriate heat sink. Would it be okay or what would you recommend? Or should I just go with the MeanWell LRS-50-12 SMPS?
Thanks in advance.
I'm thinking about to go with a linear power supply, and would use the LM78S12, which can handle 2 A with an appropriate heat sink. Would it be okay or what would you recommend? Or should I just go with the MeanWell LRS-50-12 SMPS?
Thanks in advance.
I think 7812 will get very hot - not good to push that much current through it. You have two high current heater filaments and a HV plate voltage plus a bunch of high current opamps.
The Meanwell AC/DC will work fine and last forever. If you are worried about noise and hum, I have found this particular Meanwell is excellent. The HyperSET itself has three separate DCDC converters so you are not staying linear supply for very long. But they are all very quiet as you can see in the FFTs.
If you want a cleaner tube sound, use J&J E88CC and it will have THD in 0.002% range.
Note that this data was taken with different 12v supply (wallwart style 12v 2000mA plugin at mains) with no earth grounding.
The Meanwell AC/DC will work fine and last forever. If you are worried about noise and hum, I have found this particular Meanwell is excellent. The HyperSET itself has three separate DCDC converters so you are not staying linear supply for very long. But they are all very quiet as you can see in the FFTs.
If you want a cleaner tube sound, use J&J E88CC and it will have THD in 0.002% range.
Note that this data was taken with different 12v supply (wallwart style 12v 2000mA plugin at mains) with no earth grounding.
I happen to have a couple of matched 6922s in an old Copland amp (they were built with military spec components), I might as well try it.
Hi,
some chassis job done, and there are also two old-fashioned PCBs (input selector and 5V psu for the remote control) waiting for the FeCl3 solution. The last time I drew PCBs was about 30 years ago... 🤔
some chassis job done, and there are also two old-fashioned PCBs (input selector and 5V psu for the remote control) waiting for the FeCl3 solution. The last time I drew PCBs was about 30 years ago... 🤔
Nice! I use 50:50 mix of HCl and H2O2 to etch. Cheaper as you can get at hardware store (muriatic acid cement sidewalk cleaner) and drugstore hydrogen peroxide 10%. I use Sharpie black marker for resist. Nail polish works too but harder to apply. I have the same volume remote control and I seem to remember mine was 12v input (it had onboard 5v regulator?)
I don't like strong acids, and with (warm) FeCl3 it takes about 10 minutes or so, if I remember correctly.
I use "Staedtler Lumocolor permanent" with various line thicknesses.
My volume control has 5V input (and I tried it with 5V, it works). It should work with 6VAC too, but it doesn't, for whatever reason.
I use "Staedtler Lumocolor permanent" with various line thicknesses.
My volume control has 5V input (and I tried it with 5V, it works). It should work with 6VAC too, but it doesn't, for whatever reason.
Further progress...
SMPS - check
5v converter - check
remote control - check
input selector - check
amp board - check
Now I'm waiting for the chassis parts, they should arrive in 10 days or so.
SMPS - check
5v converter - check
remote control - check
input selector - check
amp board - check
Now I'm waiting for the chassis parts, they should arrive in 10 days or so.
Hi,
my HyperSET is now finished and I'm happy 😀
my HyperSET is now finished and I'm happy 😀