Many thanks X 
I have an issue with my switch - will the common contact be switched between NO (open when switch off, contact to common when switch on) and NC (closed when switch off and contact to common when switch on)? Now is the switch off but the amp is on
sound tomorrow, have to change the inputs short from pin 2 to pin 3 (I worked with the first wiring diagram).
I have an issue with my switch - will the common contact be switched between NO (open when switch off, contact to common when switch on) and NC (closed when switch off and contact to common when switch on)? Now is the switch off but the amp is on
sound tomorrow, have to change the inputs short from pin 2 to pin 3 (I worked with the first wiring diagram).
Yes, that’s how the 3 pin DPST switch works. N/C and N/O alternate so just flip until it works when button is pushed in and latched.
I think the switch label means when button is not depressed that is “normal” position. Pushed in is the opposite of not “normal”. 😀
It looks like your HyperSET is on and working. I see HV is on and heater filaments are on. You should have sound now.
I think the switch label means when button is not depressed that is “normal” position. Pushed in is the opposite of not “normal”. 😀
It looks like your HyperSET is on and working. I see HV is on and heater filaments are on. You should have sound now.
It works
And it makes music. I've only tested mono, with an A&K Kann, a cold ACA and the completely inappropriate Manzanita and it's already very promisingNext up will be adding the amp to my main system, but probably not until tomorrow. And now - let's start with the chassis 
And it makes music. I've only tested mono, with an A&K Kann, a cold ACA and the completely inappropriate Manzanita and it's already very promising
Next up will be adding the amp to my main system, but probably not until tomorrow. And now - let's start with the chassis
"Integration" of the test bed is not easy, but technically it was a succes, even if I had some slight hum, but with this wiring is not really a wonder.
Musically - it's gorgeous
It was just a short session and only tube mode, but in this short time the amp showed great features, such as superb spatial depth, beautiful vocals, very natural sounding instruments, wide and deep stage. The bass is dry but with punch, just the way I like it, the mids melt away, the highs are crystal clear. Wow, really great! I'm looking forward to the chassis and to the right high-quality cabling and connections; tomorrow I'll order the panels, I think I'll be finished in two weeks
Musically - it's gorgeous
It was just a short session and only tube mode, but in this short time the amp showed great features, such as superb spatial depth, beautiful vocals, very natural sounding instruments, wide and deep stage. The bass is dry but with punch, just the way I like it, the mids melt away, the highs are crystal clear. Wow, really great! I'm looking forward to the chassis and to the right high-quality cabling and connections; tomorrow I'll order the panels, I think I'll be finished in two weeks
I think 7812 will get very hot - not good to push that much current through it. You have two high current heater filaments and a HV plate voltage plus a bunch of high current opamps.
The Meanwell AC/DC will work fine and last forever. If you are worried about noise and hum, I have found this particular Meanwell is excellent. The HyperSET itself has three separate DCDC converters so you are not staying linear supply for very long. But they are all very quiet as you can see in the FFTs.
If you want a cleaner tube sound, use J&J E88CC and it will have THD in 0.002% range.
Note that this data was taken with different 12v supply (wallwart style 12v 2000mA plugin at mains) with no earth grounding.
The Meanwell AC/DC will work fine and last forever. If you are worried about noise and hum, I have found this particular Meanwell is excellent. The HyperSET itself has three separate DCDC converters so you are not staying linear supply for very long. But they are all very quiet as you can see in the FFTs.
If you want a cleaner tube sound, use J&J E88CC and it will have THD in 0.002% range.
Note that this data was taken with different 12v supply (wallwart style 12v 2000mA plugin at mains) with no earth grounding.
Nice! I use 50:50 mix of HCl and H2O2 to etch. Cheaper as you can get at hardware store (muriatic acid cement sidewalk cleaner) and drugstore hydrogen peroxide 10%. I use Sharpie black marker for resist. Nail polish works too but harder to apply. I have the same volume remote control and I seem to remember mine was 12v input (it had onboard 5v regulator?)
I don't like strong acids, and with (warm) FeCl3 it takes about 10 minutes or so, if I remember correctly.
I use "Staedtler Lumocolor permanent" with various line thicknesses.
My volume control has 5V input (and I tried it with 5V, it works). It should work with 6VAC too, but it doesn't, for whatever reason.
I use "Staedtler Lumocolor permanent" with various line thicknesses.
My volume control has 5V input (and I tried it with 5V, it works). It should work with 6VAC too, but it doesn't, for whatever reason.