diyiggy> Weicon Flex 310 M Classic. Performed at least as well as SkiFlex 292 or 291 (can't remember which) but is creamy and very spreadable. Sika is kind of a pain in the butt. You can use my 3D-printed trowel to apply a uniform 1/32" layer (download button at the top of the page): https://www.somasonus.net/box-construction-methods
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWBC6O2?psc=1&language=en_US
https://www.weicon.de/en/flex-310-m...d-elastic-adhesive-for-versatile-use/10010026
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWBC6O2?psc=1&language=en_US
https://www.weicon.de/en/flex-310-m...d-elastic-adhesive-for-versatile-use/10010026
Look up "3m panel bond". That's what they use to hold supercar together. It's what we use in the shop to glue anything together. It's like welding things together but with glue. That's what you should use
What is your exact finishing method? I'm about to veneer a cabinet and I need some help with how you bring out that deep grain look in the wood.
Is that two different wood veneers? Did you just wrap the one on the sides and insert the other one for the front? I'm a total newb in woodworking. The engineering of speakers I do pretty alright with. The wood.... not so much
Look for the wood glue and iron or " Furnier, Bügeleisen, Holzleim". There are many tutorials online.
You basically apply a coat of white wood water resistant D3 glue (PVA), the cheap stuff, to the pre-cut verneer and your wood panel. Use a brush or roll. Let dry until not wet any more, like 15-20 minutes. Then take the iron and start to press and heat the verneer, starting at one side, carefully working to the other side.
This is the best way for a beginner with limited tools (no hydraulic, heated verneer press) to get perfect results. Order some cheap verneer or samples to practice before going for your speakers.
Best use verneer with a backing paper, pure veneer is very hard to manage, depending on the variety.
There are many ways to cut the protruding verneer at the edges, I like to use a fine Japan saw. Finish with fine emery paper.
You basically apply a coat of white wood water resistant D3 glue (PVA), the cheap stuff, to the pre-cut verneer and your wood panel. Use a brush or roll. Let dry until not wet any more, like 15-20 minutes. Then take the iron and start to press and heat the verneer, starting at one side, carefully working to the other side.
This is the best way for a beginner with limited tools (no hydraulic, heated verneer press) to get perfect results. Order some cheap verneer or samples to practice before going for your speakers.
Best use verneer with a backing paper, pure veneer is very hard to manage, depending on the variety.
There are many ways to cut the protruding verneer at the edges, I like to use a fine Japan saw. Finish with fine emery paper.
For a precise application of glue you can use such a tool. If you use one with 4x4mm the layer should be 2mm strong. You have to start pressing the top material from one side, so the air is pushed out. That can be done by a rubber roller.
First sand down to 320 then wipe it with water, let it dry, and sand it again with 320 maybe with 400. Wipe with mineral spirits and let it dry. Since I had walnut and oak I figured that tung oil would give the best finish. (Oil may give a blotchy finish on cherry or pine.) I used Watco brand oil but there are many brands, some dry quicker than others. Pure tung oil will take years to dry. Watco seems to take a couple of days between coats. I applied the oil using a cheep brush and brushing on the oil in a sloppy way. The idea here is to get everything covered well. I let that sit for an hour or so and wiped off the excess with a clean rag, this requires some elbow grease and a little bit of rubbing. I let that dry for a couple of days. Then I wiped on three more coats, wiping off the excess, over a couple of weeks time. This adds depth. (Important safety tip: Remember to dispose of the rags safely, they can, and do, spontaneously combust! Don't leave them in a clump on the floor!) After that dried for about a week I then applied Briwax, clear paste wax, not the darker brown. I used a buffer to get an even finish with no swirls and remove the wax from the deeper grain in the oak. You want to do like the Karate Kid, wax on, wax off. This takes a lot of elbow grease and a good bit of time if you don't have an electric buffer. I've found this is the simplest and best looking finish for walnut. That is the finish in the picture.
If you are having parties at your house and people are putting their drinks on the speakers, or your wife insists on putting potted plants on the speakers, you should wipe on a coat of oil based polyurethane. This is not required but adds a layer of protection from water and alcohol damage. Apply wipe-on poly after the oil dries. (You can make your own wipe on poly with 50/50 mineral spirits and regular gloss polyurethane) Wipe on the poly with a clean rag, let it dry, and use OOOO or 4-O steel wool on the gloss poly to bring it to a satin finish. (I don't use canned satin poly because it tends to look plastic.) Rub lightly and gently in circles with the steel wool to get the sheen you want. If you like gloss then skip the whole steel wool thing. Then apply wax and install the drivers. I apply poly to my tabletops but you shouldn't have to use it for speakers.
The good thing about oil and wax is you wipe off the wax with mineral spirits and apply more oil and you can cover up scratches and abrasions and bring the finish back to life after 15-20 years.