I'm currently building these for my Philips AD1256. The backs will be glued and nailed shut while the front will screwed down and able to be swapped out. Currently my built feels really strong and sturdy. I will add 2 cross beams to the middle and glue some butyl pads for dampening. Is a vertical brace necessary? I don't want to add too many braces that will affect the overall volume. Too bad I didn't consider bracing in the beginning. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
Attachments
Cross braces are good. If you want another opportunity that doesn't use much internal space, you might think about external constrained layers. The back is a larger panel and can be CLD and attached to the front since the front has big holes cut into it.
Ideally braces shoud connect 4 sides and fill the corners. In a cabinet that aspect, braces are best placed vertically.
dave
dave
Hi! Could you clarify why vertical?
I'm currently resolving some resonances and I've created horizontal braces using that popular "window" and a U shape right behind the woofer to connect all the 4 sides.
This is a 10" loudspeaker for using as a monitor in a studio.
Back panel is screwed and glued to the bracing.
Could you comment?
Thank you!
Bigger number is better.
In words: The aspect-ratio of the subpanels should be greater tghan that of the panel being braced. SubPanela ≠ SubPanelb
It could be done better.
This is a biggish box (135 litre) but is well braced.
I also like to brace the driver across 3 more panels than just the baffle. Smaller box needs fewer braces.
dave
Last edited:
Dave, how do you apply that brace with bass reflex box, lets say Scott's double chamber or any box with back reflex tube?
Ok! Got it. In my box shape example, although horizontal bracing is effective (it dows bump the resonance to a higher frequency), the resonance frequency would go even higher with vertical bracing due to the final aspect ratio of the sub parts.
Thank you!