Been having trouble finding Frued rolling cutters with 1/4 shanks locally.
I found the type I use manufactured by a company called Diablo for similar costs, for top roller flush cutters. They aren't cheap either cost compares to Frued but how about life expectancy?
Because I may wana go back and hoard a few..just in case.
I found the type I use manufactured by a company called Diablo for similar costs, for top roller flush cutters. They aren't cheap either cost compares to Frued but how about life expectancy?
Because I may wana go back and hoard a few..just in case.
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Hi, Just a FYI, I work in the hardware dept at HD and when we get Diablo products in they are in cartons marked Frued🤔
Sounds like a possible case of let's dupe the customer through more marketing trickery.
..kinda like two chances to win it, if they don't buy our choice A maybe our choice option B will hook em with its different packaging.
I knew I seen those Diablo bits somewhere. But its 1st time learning of the name.
..kinda like two chances to win it, if they don't buy our choice A maybe our choice option B will hook em with its different packaging.
I knew I seen those Diablo bits somewhere. But its 1st time learning of the name.
As far as I understand it, Diablo is Freud's lower end brand. There's nothing wrong with Diablo. Just as there's nothing wrong with Amprobe (Fluke's lower end brand). The differences are more likely around warranties, customer service, and such.
Tom
Tom
I'ved used same bits from both brands, started using diablo which was available in the local hardware store, when it came time to get new bits I got freud. Both seem fine for use on my cheap Makita router as well as my Festool OF1010. I supposed time will tell the story of how the freud bits go over long term use but the diablos lasted me a few years of casual use.
There could be a difference in the material grade, even tool steel has many grades.
And some expensive cutters are coated with Titanium Carbide, among other things.
And some cheap cutters are coated for long life.
See a competitive brand, in India most people who are operating CNC vertical mills use far cheaper Chinese and Korean tools, the Japanese are a little more expensive.
Sandvik, Widia and others are wildly expensive in comparison. They do find a use in difficult jobs, where the cost is not super critical.
For casual use, buy the best you can afford, which is your decision.
I have no ties to any company above.
And some expensive cutters are coated with Titanium Carbide, among other things.
And some cheap cutters are coated for long life.
See a competitive brand, in India most people who are operating CNC vertical mills use far cheaper Chinese and Korean tools, the Japanese are a little more expensive.
Sandvik, Widia and others are wildly expensive in comparison. They do find a use in difficult jobs, where the cost is not super critical.
For casual use, buy the best you can afford, which is your decision.
I have no ties to any company above.
Funny how often that happens with products. AAR I went with one of their routers (glad I did).
"For casual use, buy the best you can afford, which is your decision."
I stopped cheaping out when it comes to tools, power and manual. They might be harder to replace at times but mending or losing limbs, far harder.
I stopped cheaping out when it comes to tools, power and manual. They might be harder to replace at times but mending or losing limbs, far harder.
Life's too short for crap tools. It's happened more than once that I've started out with a crap tool because I'd only use it "casually". Then I ended up using it more than I thought and hated using it. Bought the better tool. Not thereby said that you should buy the most expensive.
Tom
Tom
Absolutely true Tommy. Same goes for other hobbies, sports too.
"don't but the expensive skates Jim you might not like going"..
The whole ice hockey team teased and tormented Jim that entire season for skating on his ankles.
"don't but the expensive skates Jim you might not like going"..
The whole ice hockey team teased and tormented Jim that entire season for skating on his ankles.
Hi Joel Wesseling. Thats pretty much what I plan to cut 1/4" to house some 2 1/2" circular car guages.
After seeing a members line array baffle.. I think a fresh Diablo bit will cut through it like an Xmas day turkey.
I would not mind killing a blade for the cause but its nice to hear It won't.
Just try to distribute the work load evenly by raising and lowering the piece. The bearing prevents another method depending what bit is used.
Theres still learning curves with a router but so far so good.
After seeing a members line array baffle.. I think a fresh Diablo bit will cut through it like an Xmas day turkey.
I would not mind killing a blade for the cause but its nice to hear It won't.
Just try to distribute the work load evenly by raising and lowering the piece. The bearing prevents another method depending what bit is used.
Theres still learning curves with a router but so far so good.
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Yeah, eliminate your competitors and increase your profits at the same time.
I only had a chance to buy the aluminium. I never had to pay for metals before id sooner hit uncles scrap cut off in his supply house. A bit shocked by cost.
But I went right for the jewelry best one they had stocked so I better not mess this one up lol.
I can't capture it by camera on my best day its illusive. Its a super fine brush finished on the good side
But I went right for the jewelry best one they had stocked so I better not mess this one up lol.
I can't capture it by camera on my best day its illusive. Its a super fine brush finished on the good side
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I suggest looking at hole saws instead. You can find some that have carbide teeth similar to a metal-cutting blade for a circular saw. I bought a 24 mm diameter one through Bezos' Bookstore. It works really well.
Here's a 2.5" one: https://www.amazon.ca/Mollom-Carbide-Cutter-Stainless-Plastic/dp/B09SKRY9SH Twenty-two bucks.
Tom
Tom the saws have been a reoccurring thought for multiple things I'm forseeing going potentially bad using the rotary cutter. And then jigsaw to do the slot cutout for the head unit. I cut the first that way and it went perfect.
When I cut out the circles I should of used it. Instead I hogged 4 holes with a spade bit then nipped what was left out with the jigsaw.
I figured I can tidy those cuts up easily later. Didnt go that way..
The sizes are on mark everything fits but they look sloppy af without the bezels there to mask it. Ill work up some nerve and unveil my butchery job later.
When I cut out the circles I should of used it. Instead I hogged 4 holes with a spade bit then nipped what was left out with the jigsaw.
I figured I can tidy those cuts up easily later. Didnt go that way..
The sizes are on mark everything fits but they look sloppy af without the bezels there to mask it. Ill work up some nerve and unveil my butchery job later.
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I used the 24 mm for cutting holes for XLR and speakON connectors in a build for a client. It was a 4-channel amp so there were lots of holes. The panel was by ModuShop. Steel... Hard steel. I basically treated the cutter as a disposable item. It went just fine. All the holes were round and in the right place at the end. 🙂
Tom
Tom