The images will help to better explain a previous post.
You can see where I made the last minute location alteration on the back shot and the ugly clamping holes that I can't hide on front. I reused the original ugly oak plate that broke for a backplate to stiffen it up. And so it hold the head unit more firmly.
You can see where I made the last minute location alteration on the back shot and the ugly clamping holes that I can't hide on front. I reused the original ugly oak plate that broke for a backplate to stiffen it up. And so it hold the head unit more firmly.
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If you're going to redo it, how about using some 3 mm aluminum sheet? That'd hold the head unit at least as sturdy as the oak would. You can always make a Delrin/acetal spacer to go behind if you need the additional thickness to bring the panel flush with something else.
Tom
Tom
That one is 3mm, it bends with very little force. Bending out the tags on the sleeve tight enough could even potentially warp it if not careful.
Or while working it if a tooth were to hang up. Aluminium is among the worst for that at happening to me.
Or while working it if a tooth were to hang up. Aluminium is among the worst for that at happening to me.
Slowly getting back to work. I G got the layout down last night. This billet is much harder, I still might get a water jet on it. Elbow isnt 100% Id hate to set healing back but this guy is getting impatient. Things are piling up.
I have to cut some 1.5 mm sergical steel for a console surface insert as well. Much tougher than the billet aluminum. Normally I'd use a 2mm cut of wheel for simple straight cuts. I prefer that. At least I won't be making two trips.
I have to cut some 1.5 mm sergical steel for a console surface insert as well. Much tougher than the billet aluminum. Normally I'd use a 2mm cut of wheel for simple straight cuts. I prefer that. At least I won't be making two trips.
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Try a softer grade of stainless steel, ask around at the shop.
Surgical carbon steel will rust, it is sometimes used because it holds an edge better than stainless steel.
In any case, 300 series steels are not easy to bend.
Surgical carbon steel will rust, it is sometimes used because it holds an edge better than stainless steel.
In any case, 300 series steels are not easy to bend.
I want to use the tougher stuff because it will see wear i dont want it to mar up or bend. Its more of an accent i added to design later.
It will maintain the size ill radius corners 1" and notch out centre so it hugs this shifter thats already in the car.
Everything will tie in great ideally you look it to look like it came in the car but obviously no it did not.
That will get hit completely with 800 then 3m pad like i tested on that edge. It should look sweet with the billet im putting above it to hold guages and an NOS alpine with green and blue crystal circa 2005. At night it will look pretty reflecting off that stainless also. Stay tuned ill show ya what I mean once I make more progress.
That plate will be level with the rest of the console surface and meet just under the B&M logo. Just enough aluminum housing showing to look good. Course that will be hit with the scuff pad as well. Last but not least a pretty brushed stainless spoke wheel is going in there to maintaim the same look.
This did start audio compliant but then morphed into a bunch more. I will also be hitting more dynamat and conceal a sealed 8" sub with passive radiator at a later point.
Those frued diablo hole cutters are top notch quality worth the cost. No one told me I needed the snap lock mandrel / pilot bit but I did get the set. It all locks in together firmly, its not snap on but Im just as confident with it in this case, If needed I reccomend highly.
It will maintain the size ill radius corners 1" and notch out centre so it hugs this shifter thats already in the car.
Everything will tie in great ideally you look it to look like it came in the car but obviously no it did not.
That will get hit completely with 800 then 3m pad like i tested on that edge. It should look sweet with the billet im putting above it to hold guages and an NOS alpine with green and blue crystal circa 2005. At night it will look pretty reflecting off that stainless also. Stay tuned ill show ya what I mean once I make more progress.
That plate will be level with the rest of the console surface and meet just under the B&M logo. Just enough aluminum housing showing to look good. Course that will be hit with the scuff pad as well. Last but not least a pretty brushed stainless spoke wheel is going in there to maintaim the same look.
This did start audio compliant but then morphed into a bunch more. I will also be hitting more dynamat and conceal a sealed 8" sub with passive radiator at a later point.
Those frued diablo hole cutters are top notch quality worth the cost. No one told me I needed the snap lock mandrel / pilot bit but I did get the set. It all locks in together firmly, its not snap on but Im just as confident with it in this case, If needed I reccomend highly.
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