poobah said
Screwdrivers may be too soft; the standard recommendation is the back of a chisel handle.
Vikash, Gcollier's recommendation of Lee Valley was a good one, since they have the stuff in sets as you asked. Have a look here:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32670&cat=1,310,41069
[edit]
Screwdrivers may be too soft; the standard recommendation is the back of a chisel handle.
Vikash, Gcollier's recommendation of Lee Valley was a good one, since they have the stuff in sets as you asked. Have a look here:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32670&cat=1,310,41069
[edit]
Attachments
Funniest thing, I just finished reading the thread, while simultaniously searching through the website of a hardware store no more than 3 miles from my house and found this article about scrapers. I'll likely pick up a scraper in the next week or two, to help me finish my pair of Frugel-Horns. Thanks for the suggestion PM.
Thanks,
Josh
Thanks,
Josh
Excellent article. I'm confident enough to give it a go now.
This 4 scraper set inc burnisher seems pretty good @ £22.11: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Hard-Edge-Cabinet-Scrapers-20437.htm
Is this the right type of file? (What is a b4stard file exactly?): http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Vallorbe-Swiss-Flat-Files-22597.htm
Simple jig: http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/scraping/scraper.htm#Squaring
If I was to go for only one scraper, which thickness would you say is best for my current task?
PS What have you started PM...
This 4 scraper set inc burnisher seems pretty good @ £22.11: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Hard-Edge-Cabinet-Scrapers-20437.htm
Is this the right type of file? (What is a b4stard file exactly?): http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Vallorbe-Swiss-Flat-Files-22597.htm
Simple jig: http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/scraping/scraper.htm#Squaring
If I was to go for only one scraper, which thickness would you say is best for my current task?
PS What have you started PM...
Vikash said:
Yes. I'd go for the longer one, they're easier to control. Files used to come in three grades, coarse, second cut, and finish. The b*stard file is between the coarse and second cut. My old teacher told me it was because the finer files clog too quickly on softer metals, so an intermediate file was required.
I'd get both the .6 and .8, one will feel right in your hands, the other won't.
Using a scraper is a real pleasure, in fact, it can almost become spiritual. Those that have will know...
Well... stupid me... I assumed that "double cut" means the same thing on your side of the pond...
Here (where files were invented by a German immigrant, Deiter Filemacher), single cut means one procession of teeth, all at the the same angle, down one face of the tool. The tool of choice for sharpening or smoothing. A double cut would be preferred for faster, albeit rougher, stock removal.
Here (where files were invented by a German immigrant, Deiter Filemacher), single cut means one procession of teeth, all at the the same angle, down one face of the tool. The tool of choice for sharpening or smoothing. A double cut would be preferred for faster, albeit rougher, stock removal.
Been playing around a bit more since I got some proper lacquer, compound and sandpaper.
This one is straight laquer on bare wood sanded down to 180 only, then sanded with 2000 grit and buffed out.
Still need to get some sanding sealer. Couldn't see anything obvious in the local B&Q.
Notice the blotchiness still from one angle.
This one is straight laquer on bare wood sanded down to 180 only, then sanded with 2000 grit and buffed out.
Still need to get some sanding sealer. Couldn't see anything obvious in the local B&Q.
Notice the blotchiness still from one angle.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I went out and bought a scraper today. I also bought a burnisher. I was happy to walk out of the store with my $6 scraper, instead of $20 worth of sand paper for my new Frugel-Horns.
After getting home I quickly filed and got the scraper ready for use. I've read many times to burnish lightly, so I did so, but after about 1 hour of using it on and off, I decided to try burnishing it 1 more time, this time a bit harder... and voila even better. While at the hardware store I talked to them about staining and finishing wood. The staining specialist, who I've talked to many times (each employee specializes in different areas) wasn't there, but in the classes that he teaches he said that with a softer wood to use wood hardener, then stain, then polyurethane.
My Frugel-Horns are using red oak plywood. I want kind of a light finish, not too dark, so after being shown how red oak looks after the different stains and polyurethanes I decided against a stain and only to use polyurethane. A clear satin poly. I just finished applying the first coat, only sanding with the scraper, after the first coat I will lightly sand with 220grit and add more layers.
I have a couple pictures, I will show 1 of the scraper and my cut hand, thanks to the scraper that sliped when I was working on the endge of wood with only 1 hand on the scraper. Go to my website for pictures about the wood, scraper, burnisher, polyurethane, or just for fun. But not right now because I only have 2 pictures up and have to leave.
By the way, the scraper gets a little hot, but not too bad, if it starts getting hot, just stop for a second, no nead for the scraper holder, and I was also recommended putting athletic tape on my thumbs.
Thanks,
Josh
After getting home I quickly filed and got the scraper ready for use. I've read many times to burnish lightly, so I did so, but after about 1 hour of using it on and off, I decided to try burnishing it 1 more time, this time a bit harder... and voila even better. While at the hardware store I talked to them about staining and finishing wood. The staining specialist, who I've talked to many times (each employee specializes in different areas) wasn't there, but in the classes that he teaches he said that with a softer wood to use wood hardener, then stain, then polyurethane.
My Frugel-Horns are using red oak plywood. I want kind of a light finish, not too dark, so after being shown how red oak looks after the different stains and polyurethanes I decided against a stain and only to use polyurethane. A clear satin poly. I just finished applying the first coat, only sanding with the scraper, after the first coat I will lightly sand with 220grit and add more layers.
I have a couple pictures, I will show 1 of the scraper and my cut hand, thanks to the scraper that sliped when I was working on the endge of wood with only 1 hand on the scraper. Go to my website for pictures about the wood, scraper, burnisher, polyurethane, or just for fun. But not right now because I only have 2 pictures up and have to leave.
By the way, the scraper gets a little hot, but not too bad, if it starts getting hot, just stop for a second, no nead for the scraper holder, and I was also recommended putting athletic tape on my thumbs.
Thanks,
Josh
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It works very fast! Depending on how hard I burnish it I can kinda control what grit I'm using, but it seems to dull pretty quickly. How often you you resharpen?
I'm just so suprised I've never heard of these. They are very quick. If you all have seen the Frugel-Horns the sides have a 52" radius cut out, I used string and a pen to mark the curve, but cut using a jigsaw... didn't turn out so well. So if I brace the side so that it is verticle I can scrape the side so it looks natural, it has taken a lot of work, but it is looking better. I would have to agree that using the scraper is very stress relieving in itself, not that speaker building isn't anyway, but I really enjoy it. Tomorrow I'll be working on my horns more and perhaps will learn more about scraping and how I prefer to use the scraper and how hard I need to burnish the scraper.
Thanks,
Josh
I'm just so suprised I've never heard of these. They are very quick. If you all have seen the Frugel-Horns the sides have a 52" radius cut out, I used string and a pen to mark the curve, but cut using a jigsaw... didn't turn out so well. So if I brace the side so that it is verticle I can scrape the side so it looks natural, it has taken a lot of work, but it is looking better. I would have to agree that using the scraper is very stress relieving in itself, not that speaker building isn't anyway, but I really enjoy it. Tomorrow I'll be working on my horns more and perhaps will learn more about scraping and how I prefer to use the scraper and how hard I need to burnish the scraper.
Thanks,
Josh
poobah said:Just don't get too darn excited and start carrying on like a 5 year old using a peeler on a carrot for the first time... try to leave some carrot.
easy now... just kidding... sort of...
I know what you mean... but I'm confident I won't go overboard.
I scraped this piece and it looks pretty good, or atleast I think so.
Any recomendations on color?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'd like mine to look like this, I have also cut 13 point stars for the suprabaffle.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks,
Josh
Scrapers
Scrapers really are designed for very light use, fine finishing.
If you want a more aggressive cut get another scraper, file the edge at about 10deg. off square and bring one heavy burr on the high side of the angle.
For longer edge life on the finish scraper it helps to stone the flat sides until very highly polished. When burnishing I usualy burnish the flat sides first, using a very small amount of oil, then go and raise the burr. This will create a less ragged burr. It won't cut as aggressively, but the finish will be smoother and the burr will last longer.
Keep at it, they seem to get better with use. I hate breaking in a new one...
Scrapers really are designed for very light use, fine finishing.
If you want a more aggressive cut get another scraper, file the edge at about 10deg. off square and bring one heavy burr on the high side of the angle.
For longer edge life on the finish scraper it helps to stone the flat sides until very highly polished. When burnishing I usualy burnish the flat sides first, using a very small amount of oil, then go and raise the burr. This will create a less ragged burr. It won't cut as aggressively, but the finish will be smoother and the burr will last longer.
Keep at it, they seem to get better with use. I hate breaking in a new one...
Vikash
Sorry to come in so late but I just stumbled across this thread.
Try a home brew sealer that I use. Mix two cups of boiled linseed oil with a gallon of mineral spitrits. Wipe on after sanding until the dry spots disappear. Allow about thirty minutes for the wood to absord it then wipe off the excess.
Sand and apply stain. The stain is more effactive if you only use 80 grit to prep the surface. Once the desired color is acheived sand and apply your choice of finish. I use Minwax Poly Wipe On with very good results. A little rubbing between coats with 00000 steel wool produces a nice mat or gloss finish.
Hope this helps
Ray
Sorry to come in so late but I just stumbled across this thread.
Try a home brew sealer that I use. Mix two cups of boiled linseed oil with a gallon of mineral spitrits. Wipe on after sanding until the dry spots disappear. Allow about thirty minutes for the wood to absord it then wipe off the excess.
Sand and apply stain. The stain is more effactive if you only use 80 grit to prep the surface. Once the desired color is acheived sand and apply your choice of finish. I use Minwax Poly Wipe On with very good results. A little rubbing between coats with 00000 steel wool produces a nice mat or gloss finish.
Hope this helps
Ray
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.