Best subwoofer possible - price no object

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I would make an adjacent 2 meters by 1.2 meters room (5,000L/6.5c.yards) for each IB15 driver and make a ruler flat sealed speaker to the infrasound (F3@15 Hz). 🙁
Or better, if I was Texas "Prof. Dumpster" Jeff Wilsonuse, I would use a 6 yards dumpster for the BR enclosure (F3@7 Hz) and when not needed anymore... toss it in the garbage. 😀
 

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@ xymox1

Hi, the MR18.4 looks like a good candidate 🙂 Have you seen the specs on the NS18-992-4A though ? = Very nice 😉

Also i'm knocked out by the Erie Instrumation Model 400 Counter-Timer in your Chris Stephens Home Page 😎 What excellent condition it's in, & well done for restoring it 🙂 I had a used Telequipment tube/valve oscilliscope for years that someone kindly gave me, & i loved it. Quite heavy though, even for it's relatively small size, but that's valve tech for ya 😀

Regards
 
IB SUB

I would recommend that you look into Infinite Baffle (IB) Subwoofers since you have freedom to modify your surroundings. They use the room itself(or an adjacent room, or a enclosure of 10 X vas) as the enclosure and have some of the cleanest and deepest bass regardless of price. It requires modification to your house and therefore there are a vanishingly small number of people have experienced them as they are exceedingly rare. But once you do, you are a convert. They have 0 boom - just bass. You just don't notice the sub until it is time. They mate easily with electrostatics and panel speakers. The speakers in this room you are building need a subwoofer that can keep up with them and not color the sound.

I built one in my house and would put it up against anything - especially for music. And I have heard other very expensive subwoofers.

Contact me if you want to know more. Here is a link to a quick run though of my build. LINK

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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Seems you mean ultimate but available off-the-shelf equipment of conventional design. That's fine.

If you didn't mean off-the-shelf, it seems obvious you'd be talking about electrostatic subs driven by high-voltage direct amps. Or ionized air (dragon) speakers.

Or motional feedback. You are far from ultimate unless you have feedback around the subs. After all, shaking cardboard cone drivers is a pretty crude way to make waves in air, no matter how committed most of this forum are to using such a silly design.

Along with construction care, you also need to provide post-installation debugging, if you are talking quality sound.

Ben
 
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I have a pair of Aurasound NS18-992-4A drivers in 150L sealed boxes next to my seas trym speakers and i can tell you that they are the easiest 'ultimate' sub setup i've seen.
Of course it all depends on room characteristics, but in a normal lounge room, they blow me away. I'm using a DCX2496 for crossover and EQ, and a yamaha P2500S to drive them.
 
^^_______________________ It looks like a badass-clockwork-orange-extreme-rehabilitation chamber!!!! :att'n: :hypno1: 🤐

""...foreseen in "A Clockwork Orange", ...(a) sentimental dream has become our own nightmare.""
- the New Republic magazine, 1993

references:
Anthony Burgess - Wikiquote
The Dystopian Imagery: Extreme Rehabilitation In Orwell's "1984" and Kubrick's "A Clockwork Orange"
The speaker that lets you enter INSIDE and looks like a giant hamster ball | Mail Online

Alex: It had been a wonderful evening and what I needed now to give it the perfect ending was a bit of the old Ludwig van. 😀
A Clockwork Orange - Beethoven's 9th - YouTube
 

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The rotary subs are good up to 40 Hz, I've heard most installs will cut them off at 25. above perhaps a sealed design as they will blend nice.

Servo corrects after nonlinearities happen, quickly but they cannot overcome the displacement issue, the TRW has practically infinite displacement within the infinite octaves between 25 Hz and dc. That review changed the way i look at bass forever, it is education, more than opinion even.

The equivalent displacement of conventional subs below 40 Hz would have to quadruple each octave to keep up, also it being an IB installation its a minimum phase shift device, think ill go read the review just to refresh my memory.
 
I would go with multiple closed boxes placed to null out room modes if possible. Persisting modes are reduced with noch eq. Then it's just a question of pump volume available and amount of bottom end eq to reach target.
Room gain helps a lot as does playing the subs in mono.
PA amps is often most cost effective.

Human hearing is not very sensitive to infra sounds so they have to be played very loud to be heard. Extreme low end extension is useless below threshold of hearing.

Two drivers per cab push/pull reduce the 2:nd harmonic. Send me a message if you find a way to reduce the higher order ones...

70 Hz XO is as far down you can go without exessive group delay. 30 - 36 dB/oct LP works well.

Large windows is a bad idea as they tend to resonate and eventually brake.
Avoid open doorways as they make it more difficult to pressurize the room as you then have to pressurize the whole house.
Doors doesn't need to be air tight beyond "barometric" range extension.
In the right room < 5 Hz is possible.

No vented system can come close to this kind of performance.
Horns will be significantly larger than the room/house itsef to compare.

A friend uses 24 long stroke 12" in this kind of setup. At 20 Hz the system is just coasting...
 
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