Any capacitor is designed to block DC ( some better than others ).
In high voltage situations film capacitors are much better than electrolytic but large value /high voltage film capacitors are large and expensive ( if you want quality ) so PCB size and design has to be taken into account.
Adverts just saying --" I sell DC blocking capacitors " while factually correct is just advertising "Puff " .
In high voltage situations film capacitors are much better than electrolytic but large value /high voltage film capacitors are large and expensive ( if you want quality ) so PCB size and design has to be taken into account.
Adverts just saying --" I sell DC blocking capacitors " while factually correct is just advertising "Puff " .
I know capacitors block DC, who doesn't. But the term "capacitor block" or "DC block" is being used in a specific context. e.g. this post:
"Motor runs unlike DC links aren't optimized for low ESL most of the times. Wheras those modern blocks made for local decoupling in power inverters (IGBT) Capacitors need to provide good impedance from DC to several 100's of Khz."
Actually from the above, the term I'm looking for may be "DC Link" capacitors
So what are we talking about here?
.
"Motor runs unlike DC links aren't optimized for low ESL most of the times. Wheras those modern blocks made for local decoupling in power inverters (IGBT) Capacitors need to provide good impedance from DC to several 100's of Khz."
Actually from the above, the term I'm looking for may be "DC Link" capacitors
So what are we talking about here?
.
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Another thing: Ive seen audio reviews where Tube A branded Philips was ranked 10 points lower than tube B branded Mullard. And if you looked closely they where made in the same factory..
Very bad example: differences between Philips, Mullard, Valvo, Amperex, ECG... are anything but subtle. They're all owned by Philips.
Sometimes vishays can lack of deep bass, especially some BC caps. But sure they know how to make caps... Industrial caps is just what exist, look at Siemens Sikorel... also good for audio, all is about what you want or able to hear.
Absolutely correct! Everybody will tell you the same: Vishay/BC was always a little dry in the bass/body region, even in the 90's (when BC caps were owned by Philips) highend manufacturers were aware of the sound. At least 1 manufacturer admitted using BC because their integrated amp had a very powerful bass.
the best coupling cap is no cap at all....
In theory yes. But in real life you can alter the sound of an amp that is sounding not very pleasent with i.e. oil caps or warm sounding ecaps. My opamp pre don't need any coupling cap but I use a pair of caps to tame the sound.
Very bad example: differences between Philips, Mullard, Valvo, Amperex, ECG... are anything but subtle. They're all owned by Philips.
He is just theorizing!
Tube people all over the world are aware of sound differences between tubes from the same factory made from the same materials. I have many 6N6P tubes here and I selected them by measuring and still 1975 made ones sound different then 1979 ones.
Another example: If you test a PIO cap versus a MKP cap you don't need a blind listening test cos the difference is too obvious... been there...
Silmics too bright? If Silmics are to bright for you please consider to visit the ear doctor, I'm not joking or offending.
+1
The Silmic claim is just incomprehensible to me, unless those were Chinese fakes.
Well Im really surprised that this thread has lasted this long.
From where i stand this thread has turned into the most useful and interesting cap thread. Not least because of SinGun's knowledge and contributions.
A handful of us here eat components for breakfast, lunch & dinner ya Analog_
Sa. Lol. Just so tired of so many arguing that there's no sound differences in components. The worse sin that I've noticed is many diy guys chooses component by just looking at specs alone. Does super specs equals super sound ?????
Cheers
Sa. Lol. Just so tired of so many arguing that there's no sound differences in components. The worse sin that I've noticed is many diy guys chooses component by just looking at specs alone. Does super specs equals super sound ?????
Cheers
Yes indeed. I use a 2 stage amp design. I tried out some higher mu output tubes like EL12n with drivers like EL33, and that was a different sound - dynamic with good bass. Then came back to the sweetness of the 300b. My problem with the 300b was finding a driver I liked the sound of and which had a mu of around 30 or more. I went through a procession of tubes I didn't much like and eventually ended up with some German Post tubes and one or two very obscure radio valves which were good enough to solve the problem.
I posted here to see if it would be a good idea to replace the reservoir cap in my HT supply with an electrolytic. But instead I bought some DC Link caps which should sound good according to feedback - 47uF, 900v. They're metallised polypropylene. I don't know what you guys think about the comparison of DC Link and Electrolytics for a tube PSU.
Just so tired of so many arguing that there's no sound differences in components.
Ignore lists are among the most valuable features of this site. Use them!
I only learn what one troll or another cannot hear when one of you guys quote them
Seriously, any interaction with the capacitor-deaf leads only to frustration, pointless extended discussions and watering down of useful content. No idea what satisfaction such discussions bring to the other side and don't much care.
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The Silmic claim is just incomprehensible to me, unless those were Chinese fakes.
If they can't HEAR the diff, they probably can't SEE the diff.
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Though bipolar caps are suppose to be non directional in reality they still do Bigun.
Use a Dvm to measure the voltage you'll notice that there is positive as well as negative readings depending on orientation of the probe. For you to test flip the orientation of the Muse cap around at the input of your amp, you'll hear a difference. One side will sound thicker but less clear the other side will sound much cleaner but leaner.
Cheers
Use a Dvm to measure the voltage you'll notice that there is positive as well as negative readings depending on orientation of the probe. For you to test flip the orientation of the Muse cap around at the input of your amp, you'll hear a difference. One side will sound thicker but less clear the other side will sound much cleaner but leaner.
Cheers
Nichicon MUSE has been my favourite pick. I esp. like the green coloured bipolar caps as input caps on SS amplifiers.
kaisei BP are even better
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